What camera/s do you use for what shots?

[shyer]

I will start, for holidays, picnics , family and friends I mainly use a Lumix dmc-fz5 bought second hand reconditioned with warranty for $300 two years ago . Now good examples can be got for $150 in USA or UK with high Aus dollar. There are no real duds out there you get what you pay for some people want some features others want others. However you can never change the over or under exposure loss of detail, blur due to hand shake or subject movement, bad composition you are always stuck with. Just as bad flash placement or glare a polarizer could have eliminated.
The lumix I use I class as a compact ultra optical zoom, digital zoom is useless, any computer can do that. Sony, Canon, Pentax, Nikon and many others make excellent cameras in this class. What I like about the lumix is for the price and risk of damage near water or dust is a very good lens for $ with simple or manual settings. It is also one of the few that allows filters. The main negatives are a very weak flash common in this category. Propertied batteries no top ups at local servo again common in category, biggest gripe is no hot shoe.
For eBay, work and similar I use 2 Samson gx-10 mainly to avoid changing lens too often. Dirt is a real problem for digital SLRs. I am embarrassed to count my lens as I only regularly use about 20 of them. The other 200 odd. I justify as a having a collector interset in photographic history. OH I believe in Santa clause too. Same comments apply though, all the manufacturers have good products in their price bracket.

I also have some film bodies ( well more than a few I have tello disease in film) occasionally used.

[tellomon]

I also have some film bodies ( well more than a few I have tello disease in film) occasionally used.

 

[shyer]

Tello we need to start a self help group for collectors who are addicts.

[*CountessA*]

Should it be mandatory for amateur photographers to have a stand, to avoid hand shake?

[tellomon]

Tello we need to start a self help group for collectors who are addicts.

Have at it, but leave me OUT OF IT!!!   :scold:

[shyer]

Since this started about photographing coins here I feel is the first step a light box / tent. This applies to stamps all small objects even dresses for instance but now a tent of white sheets etc.

http://www.wikihow.com/Create-an-Inexpensive-Photography-Lightbox

My light boxes are usually all white or grey or black with the "TOP" often slideable. The illustrated one with brown and white inside the box will make some items muddy especially light brown ones. With practise a few minutes a new one whipped up for series of shots. I find flash a lot better than tissue paper or desk lights. Modern flashes are cheap and changeable, point slightly away from subject or aim at white  roof. Tissue paper or Vaseline over flash lens all diffuse the light.
Also to answer the countess flash occurs over about 1/1000 of a second thus hand shake or insect movement now not an issue. Natural light only and often below 1/60th of a second hand shake a real problem, let alone the moving insect. Tripods are slow to set up, bulky and fiddly with electronic releases. And hard to compose with. The other flash advantage is close focused objects will have shallow Depth of Field (DOF) is lens is fully open. With flash can close aperture down so DOP useable. Look at earlier stamp shots in other thread to see DOF problems.
Find what works for you is simple, quick and slowly experiment step by step.

[shyer]

Here Is a cheap flash, I use these as slave remote flashes cheap if water spill or someone sits on chair positioned on. Also fine as first hotshoe flash.

http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.12302

These are remote triggers but if you want to start using remotes.
http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.2321
This model uses built in flash, to trigger remote flash remote flash usually mounted on small desktop tripod. Wireless also available note prices IN USA $ and includes postage to Australia.
http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.6201
A few more items small and cheap
http://kaidomain.com/ProductDetails.aspx?ProductId=4395

[*Yibida*]

I have a Panasonic Lumix 12 x optical zoom with motion stabilizer... I purchased it for action / surveillance shots at long range...the macro is superb also.....

[tellomon]

I purchased it for action / surveillance shots at long range..

Dude.....ya just tipped-off the Coinerz.

Now ya gotta get a disguise.

Wonker!

[Poddy]

One camera does it all for me

I have a Nikon Coolpix 8700, a Ranox DCR-1850 Pro tele lens attachment, a Raynox M-250 Macoe lens attachment and a Nikon hotshoe flash.

The cost of that setup was around $500 at the time (some of the parts were used)

With that setup I can produce very high quality pictures just by adding some talent hehehehehe

[Coinfucious888]

As a coinee, I am more into macro photography even though I do take the occassional portraits/landscapes. Well into the twilight of my years now, I am compensating my failing eyesight with huge macro shots of my collection to look for any imperfections.

I now use a Nikon DSLR and two fast prime macro lenses (60mm f:2.8 and a 150mm f:2.8), both lenses have 1:1 magnification.

For lighting, I use a ring type flash (Nikon R1C1).

Still experimenting with this toy but I can now capture these sort of shots.

[Poddy]

here are a few examples of my humble efforts  

[misha]

You need to visit WA for some beautiful scenery Poddy.

I'll find some of my better shots [not in this computer] for posting tomorrow.

As mentioned before, Sony DSC-H5 here. 
It's the only camera I have currently so I can't take a picture of it !

[shyer]

Poddy here are photos and review of Sony h5. I find this site good for camera reviews I read front page then conclusion, then last page, get to from drop down box at top. And final selection is based on photo comparison of same items or views. Wether landscape, protrait, macro etc. Other sites I use for lens reviews.
Do not get bogged in details the photo results are all that matters for the shots you take.

http://www.dpreview.com/reviews/sonyh5/

Looking at the excellent macro shot coinfussious has provided . A ring flash probably needs an explanation. Read review here the "Ring" is the large circle that uses the screw thread on front of lens to mount the other rings are adaptors for different size lens threads. Also notice the price that equates to about $900AU with GST and higher OZ markups.

http://reviews.cnet.com/flashes/nikon-sb-r1c1/4505-13039_7-31647486.html

I have 2 Cobra ring flashes made in UK, only available S/H now, a lot available in UK for $100AU plus not tied to Nikon bodies. Can adapt to pentax, canon etc, virtually any body.

[shyer]

Coinfussoius excellent coin shot shows the two basics of photography light and composition well executed. Not only is photo a good one for selling, trading, buying, examining the item. It is also interesting for a non coin collector. Notice the reflection ring around the coin. Normally a predominately black object with a black back ground would be a NO NO. Think always in terms of tones IE what would appear in black and white film. However in this case the silver detail is great because of black back ground and the silver completely separates the two blacks.

Coinfussius has controlled the lighting got good depth of field because well lit, and with a good background choice of tone, colour and texture created an interesting composition for non coinies as well. My personal view is that ring flashes are more suited to insects, live objects even portraits. But Coinfusious coin shot demonstrates, what works for you use it.

The hairy moth poddy has shot, would probably have been able to get a greater DOF with a ring flash. The out of focus area however does help to highlight the details of the hair in focus. The  camera only controls two things basically the size of opening expressed as aperture IE f2 for most lens fully open IE 50 dia lens 50 mm hole, to f32 nearly closed same 50mm lens 3mm dia hole is all the slither of light let in. The closer to F32 you get the greater the DOF. Camera also controls the time the lens is left open ie 5 mins for a time lapse to 1/2000 of a sec for a fast moving object like a horse at gallop or race car in full roar.

[shyer]

Should it be mandatory for amateur photographers to have a stand, to avoid hand shake?

Hi countessa never really answered this Nothing is mandatory what works for you is all that matters. Full size and strength tripods are heavy and even folded are bulky. Desk top tripods have the same head adjustments but impossible to balance for some angles. Full size tripods should always have hook. This is to weight the tripod for wind or adjustments before locking angle. Camera bag or shopping bags with dirt or rocks even about 5 /10 kgs I find best. Also some string / octopus strap so weight is hanging just off the ground is more stable than at top of tripod.
There are many ways to reduce hand shake most digital cameras in the over $300 new price bracket have some form of  anti shake built in. But at best only moves from 1/120th of a second to 1/60th of a second. Using rests not tripods I have gone to over 1 minute on some shots. Rests are car roofs , door frames , veranda posts, table is better than chair. Dead non living weight is the key. Trees are OK but in mild wind they move.
Eg night shot of water with not a lot of light but magnificent reflections and background. I want foreground 10 meters in focus and background 1000 meters in focus need about F8 depending on lens.
Anything like a car roof, brick bar-b-q , post for sign , anything that is solid. Put a layer of heavy cloth between camera and rest . Two sides thin sweater, a walking sox, even 4 layers newspaper , aim at view press firmly but not hard ie 2 kg milk carton to lift or move. Stand in comfortable position and press button gently, remove finger. Then breathing shallow no movement at all, Balance spare on rest as well  wait for Shot to finish.
Takes some practice but is useable. Also telephoto lens longer they are the more stability they need. Over 400mm in my opinion full daylight needs some sort of rest or stand.

[Coinfucious888]

Shucks shyer, many thanks for the critique.....you have me walking around with a blown up head now 

On a serious note, the beauty of digital shots is that I can shoot as many as I want without worrying about development/processing costs. I feel that by doing so, you will eventually strike a medium of what your desired outcome is from your photos.

This one is of a solid gold coin where I wanted part of the coin lighted up to show gold.



This one is of a tiny fly taken with the 150mm F2.8 macro prime at a distance of 2 feet.

[Coinfucious888]

....lastly this is my foray into landscapes, taken from the back of my house of the gathering storm before the onslaught of a cyclone.

This one is taken with a 30mm f1.4 prime. Very grateful for your comments.

[*CountessA*]

Thanks for that information, Shyer. I now release how pitifully little I know about achieving distinctive photographs - and Coinfucius, I'm in awe of that beautiful shot of the coin.

[shyer]

What is the saying we need to alter it,

Red sky at night shepards delight,
Red sky in the morning shepards warning,
Blue and purple skys to cellar running.

[shyer]

Poddys photos show what can be done with what many experts (one defination of a spurt is  "a drip under pressure) would call a point and shoot carmera. Good compositions and catching the light from the best angle .
The face is just the right angle with soft light , skin tones are the hardest colours to photogragh accurately.
The setting sun, blocked behind the tree stops the auto exposure from under exposing the rich colours.
The mushroom and computer editing.
The twinkle star effect and bubbles on blue water I again suspect computer editing.
You can buy cheap, small, light weight, star filters. One light works well in editing many lights is very hard to get the right balance.
 
This is all one lens, landscape to macro with not a lot of manual over rides available.

[shyer]

On a serious note, the beauty of digital shots is that I can shoot as many as I want without worrying about development/processing costs. I feel that by doing so, you will eventually strike a medium of what your desired outcome is from your photos.

I could not agree more coinfucious , as someone who had his first Instamatic at 5 saved for his first 35mm at 8 , was developing film at 10 when I was allowed to handle the chemicals, built my first enlarger and darkroom at 14. Digital costs are cents per hundred shots. And cropping and all the chemicals, dedicated darkrooms, high experimentation costs , enlarger / lens / filters and touch up mediums all in the dustbin.

Digital Photograph has made top quality both affordable and easier to learn.

[Poddy]

My only attempt at coin photography 

[touch_it_you_die]

I am primarily a coinie and I use Nikon D60 with image stabilisation and the standard 28-80 macro lens it came with.  Still saving for a dedicated macro lens, but I do have a copy stand and good lights to take decent coin pictures with.

[shyer]

One camera does it all for me
I have a Nikon Coolpix 8700, a Ranox DCR-1850 Pro tele lens attachment, a Raynox M-250 Macoe lens attachment and a Nikon hotshoe flash.
The cost of that setup was around $500 at the time (some of the parts were used)
With that setup I can produce very high quality pictures just by adding some talent hehehehehe

Here is review of camera still nearly $1000AU new, S/H I have seen in low $200AU recently. As S/H Quality at a bargain price.

http://www.dpreview.com/reviews/nikoncp8700/

Here is review of tele Raynox . These lens or filters are hard to classify they are on front of lens and need a lens to use, so they are a filter? Or they are a lens, as it has 8 lens inside unit. Notice price of these Some $150 AU new . There are a lot of $50 even $100 new of these telephoto / Macro / wide angle converters. I have never seen a cheap one with good optics thus the whole group is tarred with cheap and nasty. S/H very cheap, wether good or bad optics. If you can get a good one S/H grab it, for small camera bag. New I have to ask the question is the $150 better spent on a dedicated lens? A dedicated tele/ wide / macro lens will always have better optics.

http://www.epinions.com/review/Raynox_DCR_1540PRO__1_54x__Telephoto__dcr1540pro_/content_274225532548

Look at cyclone sky picture from coinfusious or his macro shots, the detail a dedicated lens captures is amazing.

[shyer]

 To clarify a converter in the film SLR world aways went between the body and lens mainly either macro or tele converters. Very popular both amateur and professionals as small light thus easily transported and with good quality units zero or near zero reduction in clarity. All had a small reduction in light through put so slower shutter speed or more open lens. Here is a cheap adjustable macro converter for digitals. However NOT suitable for mobile use.

http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.16277

Solid tubes suitable for mobile use

http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.2325

And A tele converter tube

http://www.adorama.com/PRO2XNKAF.html

[shyer]

I am primarily a coinie and I use Nikon D60 with image stabilisation and the standard 28-80 macro lens it came with.  Still saving for a dedicated macro lens, but I do have a copy stand and good lights to take decent coin pictures with.

Touch it you die if you look at earlier stamp macro photos link I put up you will see some 50mm prime lens shots using / not using reversing ring with / out extension tubes. I sold a manual 50mm prime 1.4 nikor lens for about $90 two years ago price would still be similar . Optics 99% slight dust, lens body a few Marks, perfect all moving parts.

Team with a $50 macro bellows and look at range you have.
With 50mm lens and macro bellows .75 to 3 times macro. With reversing ring and bellows 2.5 to 8 times macro. For mobile use you also have a wonderful portrait lens and some small macro filters as well available . Total cost well under $200. And superb glass and extras allways worth what you paid for them. Manual focus and settings but light is the key in all macro work and thus always manual anyway. Here is a reversing ring check which Nikon series your body uses.

http://www.adorama.com/MCRRNK52.html?searchinfo=reversing+ring

[shyer]

PS touch here is link to photo set of stamps macro, to what I class as micro 30 times or more life size.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/11976328@N03/sets/72157601617898886/detail/

Also notice final flash shot exposure untouched. A 42 meter flash used while only 200 mm from stamp. Enough light for a building in complete dark 42 meters away. Most fixed lens cameras pop up flashes are good for about 5 meters. Some DSLR pop ups go to 10 or a bit further . Hotshoe flashes full size swivel and zoom and tilt start at 20 meters. 40 meters means 4 20 meter flashes synced. from 5 to 10 meters is 4 times as much light and battery power. 10 to 20 another 4 times 20 to 40 is 64 times.

This is why pop up are small , not enough battery power to run camera and large flash.

[touch_it_you_die]

For coins you really need a 100mm or 150mm lens to get the camera > 12 inches away from the coin for optimal lighting while still filling up the lens of the camera.  150mm is ideal as you can get 18 inches away.  Now I dont know how those extender ring thingies work but will they allow you to do this?

[Coinfucious888]

Very true touch it 

With short lenses, you have the additional problem of your cam/lens reflected in the highly reflective fields of a proof coin. However macro primes over 100mm are not cheap and are also heavy with all the glass in it. Depending on the brand and model, they can cost as much as the camera if not more. However, there are excellent third party lenses that are just as good as the OEM ones. SIGMA, TOKINA & TAMRON are three that springs to mind.

The majority of my coin shots are taken with a SIGMA 150mm F2.8 APO MACRO DG. At a shade over 1K, it is less than half the price of a comparable one from the NIKON stable.

Take a look at this shot of one of the coins from the 2000 Sydney Olympics....you should be able to make out the joey that is in the roo's pouch (I have use a link to this shot as the site reduces the overall pixels in downsizing of the photo).

http://www.boomspeed.com/mugarinya1/DSC_1370.jpg


Other good points to remember are:


1. Check the white balance.
2. Shoot in raw mode instead of one of the preset programs.


Cheers

[shyer]

Very true touch it  .
The majority of my coin shots are taken with a SIGMA 150mm F2.8 APO MACRO DG. At a shade over 1K, it is less than half the price of a comparable one from the NIKON stable.
. Shoot in raw mode instead of one of the preset programs.
Cheers

Touch I agree with coinfucious, however there are cheaper alternatives if finances do not permit or justify an expensive option. The expensive option will only give better results if the photographer is experienced,talented and practiced like coinfusious. The 50 mm prime and bellows will give you a workable solution, for 20% of the cost of expensive option. As well getting you a quality 1.4f prime lens to experiment with.

These flash brackets are also something to consider for hand held use. I gave links earlier for cheap flashes and converters. Only $10 good for tripod can make a handle from wood rubber whatever to use handheld. Even the the small desktop tripods folded and hand held.
http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/93392-REG/General_Brand_VA322_Straight_Flash_Bracket.html
This is a $80 bulky option, however very adjustable. These two units stand out personally, for either costs or features. 100s of designs to chose from.
http://www.alzodigital.com/online_store/flip_flash_bracket_digital_camera.htm
http://

[shyer]

Here are three S/H macro lens suitable for coins. Note the Nikon one is nearly new price. $800Au with post
http://www.adorama.com/US%20%20%20%20354656.html
Similar in pentax a little cheaper but not as long cheaper new , cheaper S/H. $650AU with post.
http://www.adorama.com/US%20%20%20%20356914.html
Both of these relatively new digital auto focus lens. Here is a Manual focus lens auto aperture and macro is always manual. You can see the advantage of using a body that is backward compatible. Now Cost is only $300AU. This shop tends to be dearer but usually open to sensable offers other store is fixed price.
http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/800658173-USE/Pentax__Macro_50mm_f_2_8_SMCP_A.html

These are both reputable dealers I have bought from grading is accurate. All lens are good glass and quality materials and well designed.

[Coinfucious888]

Another cheap way to take very close macro shots is investing in the purchase of a reverse macro adapter (about $15.00). This will enable you to mount your lens the other way around like thus...



.....here are examples of some shots I have taken of a 2004 uncirculated dollar coin using this method.


http://www.boomspeed.com/mugarinya1/2004_halo.jpg.


http://www.boomspeed.com/mugarinya1/2004_a.jpg


http://www.boomspeed.com/mugarinya1/2004_e.jpg



Cheers

[*Ubbie Max*]

Good morning all.
I need advise. I'm thinking about buying a new camera & have been looking around. My current digital camera is an old Kodak 5 megas with about 6 times optical zoom. I have been considering a few & was told Nikon is a good brand.
What's this one like, Ebay item 350268959997, it's a Nikon Coolpix P80 Digital Camera + 8GB + Case Kit .

There are tons of cameras listed on Ebay & many sellers are based in Hong Kong, some with good feedback & some with not so good feedback. Has anyone had any experience, good or bad, with sellers from Hong Kong?

I'm also considering a digital SLR style camera.

[*Ubbie Max*]

Further to my questions above, how about this one, 200398065097, Olympus SP-590 26X Zoom UZ Digital Camera SP590.I don't know anything about Olympus, are they OK?

[shyer]

What's this one like, Ebay item 350268959997, it's a Nikon Coolpix P80 Digital Camera + 8GB + Case Kit .
Or Olympus SP-590
I'm also considering a digital SLR style camera.

There are really three questions here what is your photo subject matter ? Macro / family / landscape.? what is maximum print size you use? Is it mostly daylight or Flash?
All the good brands and that includes Nikon and Olympus make cameras that are competitive in their price bracket. One thing to consider with the ultra zooms any zoom over 300mm in 35 mm equivalent. A rest or tripod is needed even with image stabilisation in daylight. The less light the greater the problem. The factory demo Nikon here is probably the better $ buy nearly 1/2 the price with virtually the same hand held usable features.

That said neither of these units has a hotshoe, lens shade OR any way of mounting filters. Any daylight filter protects your lens and things like Polaroid filters. In some situations these filters enable a good photo without them forget it. IE Sydney dust storm last month a zoom lens I would not take out of camera bag, without daylight filter to seal. Not worried about dust on lens that I can clean, it is dust in zoom lens and moving parts is the problem.

DSLR is not a compact all in one solution, like any of these ultra zoom compacts. I use an older only 12 times compact for family snaps etc. Worth today $150 if it gets stolen at beach or rained on at football, sat on at birthbay party, not a calamity. DSLR I use for ebay and other shots where quality is important and I am concentrating on the camera not the event I am at.

[*Ubbie Max*]

Thanks for that advise Shyer. It is very informative & will infuence my final decision.
how about this camera. Ebay 200398065146 Olympus SP-590 UZ Digital Camera +8GB Kit SP590 NEW, what are your thoughts? 

[shyer]

I feel the Nikon is better $ value as nearly 1/2 the price and hand useable effectively same features.

If you look at page one of this thread  camera poddy uses and also some varying types of photos poddy has taken with it. Recently Compleated Ebay no 260489128085 $300Au . I in first comment talk about similar lumix I use. Poddys Nikon has the advantage of flash hotshoe at twice lumix S/H price . Both have sun hoods and filter options.

The Olympus you are looking at is nearly $500Au delivered you are getting towards starter DSLR money. No Hoods, hotshoe or Filter options or all other DSLR options.

IE eBay 310173625346 body and starter lens $600AU above average use. Older but better value 250517053976 with two lens. Less used and $500AU two lens cover 28mm to 450mm some features not on older camera may be important to you. I sold my 1*st bodies to buy gx10 bodies as the waterproofing, auto sensor clean and anti shake features were important to me. The rise in pixels was immaterial. You want lens Quality not pixels and is one argument against 24X optical zoom Olympus at either extreme of zoom problems, common with all those ultra ultra zooms.

[Poddy]

shyer,

Funny you should mention that item number hahahahaha it is one I re comended as a good buy to a person I know. 

It hasn't arrived yet but it is expected by the end of the week.

There was also one in the US that went for AU$246.66 postage inclusive i was tempted to bid on that one for myself as a spare. Ubb would do well to wait for anotherone to come up, they range from $300-$400 and their original cost was over $2000.

Most people get conned into going for Digital SLRs which is fine if you have deep pockets and don't mind carrying around a huge gadget bag full of expensive lenses.

I like the Nikon because it has an electronic colour viewfinder as well as a an LCD display, great for taking shots in high level light conditions, it also has a hotshoe as well as an inbuilt speedlight.

The battery is of the re chargable lithium-ion type which holds more energy than Ni-Mh, with an adapter tube you can add filters and add-on lenses.

In summary I would compare my camera system to justabout any Digital SLR at 5 times the cost .

[*Ubbie Max*]

Poddy. The Nikon you refer to in your last post, which one is that?

[Poddy]

Hi Ubb,

This is the one it is a Nikon Coolpix 8700 this is the item number of the one that was got for a friend

260489128085

They come up for auction fairly regularly I'll keep my eye open for you if you like

[*Ubbie Max*]

Well, I took the plunge & bought a new camera. It's a PANASONIC Lumix DMC-FZ35  with the following;
12.1 Megapixels , 18 Optical zoom ( I took note of Shyer & Poddy & didn't go for a gazillion optical zooms). It is supplied with an 8gb card, a spare battery charging stuff & all the other bits & pieces.

Unlike the Nikon I was originally considering, the  PANASONIC Lumix is threaded & will take filters.

Now all I have to do is learn how to use it.

Thanks Shyer & Poddy for your advise & help.

[shyer]

.......... It's a PANASONIC Lumix DMC-FZ35  with the following;
12.1 Megapixels , 18 Optical zoom ( I took note of Shyer & Poddy & didn't go for a gazillion optical zooms)............ Now all I have to do is learn how to use it.

Ubbrd having used the DMC-FZ5 for years I am sure you will enjoy your camera. My pros include good modes, options, small and light. A real handbag or jacket pockets camera. The major flaw for me is ebay style macro shots, with no hotshoe built in flash usually leaves a shadow from lens over bottom of photo.

To over come this I use this item. $11 including post with, from same site all metal table top tripod $10/20
http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.19326
If you do not have a flash any hotshoe flash will do regardless of age. In my lumix kit I have a small powerfull 30 year old flash ( expensive new) now worth $5 at most. Or new this $30 one largeish with all the twist and swivel you need.
http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.6242 and
http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.5176

[*Ubbie Max*]

Good advise Shyer. I saw a flash listed on Ebay that screws to the tripod mounting hole on the base of the camera & it automatically goes off when the camera's flash goes off. I don't know how it works but it wasn't too expensive. Pity I accidently wiped all my watched items, now i'll have to do a search on Ebay & try to find it.

The flash is supposed  to be good for 50 feet (in the old scale)

[shyer]

...... I don't know how it works but it wasn't too expensive...... The flash is supposed  to be good for 50 feet (in the old scale)

The best comparison is to use meters is this 50ft is 17 meters and make sure measurement uses standard F2.8 at ISO100 .The trigger above uses the light from the pop up flash to trigger the stand alone flash. The pro is they have no batteries to go flat and small and light. The con is they need to be within a meter or five of pop up flash and trigger window able to see pop up light.
I would avoid a 17 meter flash as not much further than standard 9 meter pop up. While nearly as bulky as 25 meter flash, one above only $30. Also using tripod mount to hold flash is not as good as a bar that holds camera and flash and can still accept tripod. Which can be done with kit above. Also kit above is useable without bar. The best position for ANY flash is off axis to lens, light diffused and ideally some 1 to 5 meters away from camera.
While your new camera cost you some $500 with transport most people will upgrade units like this every 3 to 6 years and old unit will get a $100 as trade or as gift value. They usually keep their hotshoe flash/ tripods / triggers / bars / filters etc. Not just to defray upgrade costs, but familar with using those extras. I have flashes / tripods/ filters/ bars etc I still use I bought 30 years ago.
 

[shyer]

Hi Ubb,
This is the one it is a Nikon Coolpix 8700 this is the item number of the one that was got for a friend
260489128085.....

update here is a cheaper unit maybe a little more banged about 230398189219 $230US and with post $300AU. Even saw one sell at $220US. While more optical zoom for 8800 claimed, loss of quality at both extremes now, compared to 8700 . The big advantage over 8700 is vibration assist. While vibration assist is not relevant for flash use. Is helpful for natural light use, especially macro or high zoom.

[shyer]

Here is an interesting comparison amazon prices for used coolpix 8800 good to refurbished $400US to $700US plus post.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/offer-listing/B00061S2OO/ref=dp_olp_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1258439258&sr=8-1

And compleated ebay items for camera only, $200US to $270US plus post.

http://completed.shop.ebay.com/Digital-Cameras-/31388/i.html?LH_Complete=1&_nkw=coolpix%208800&_catref=1&_dmpt=Digital_Cameras&_fln=1&_trksid=p3286.c0.m283&_rdc=1

ebay good to buy on bUT bad to sell on? I have noticed some real bargains on ebay since "best match" introduced

[*Ubbie Max*]

G'day Shyer. I got my new camera, a PANASONIC Lumix DMC-FZ35, from a trader on Ebay in Hong Kong. It was half the Australian Retail price & included an extra battery, an 8Gig memory card & other stuff. The feedback for the seller was good so I took the punt & it was worth it. I realise I can't claim a warranty but I took the risk.

Your avatar came from my new camera (Macro zoom) & Yib whacked the Pepsi in it's gob. I don't know how to do that microsoft paint stuff but Yib's very good at it..

My next move is to buy a digital SLR camera. I'm more familiar with SLR cameras (old 35m types) having been trained on their use with work.

[shyer]

....My next move is to buy a digital SLR camera. I'm more familiar with SLR cameras (old 35m types) having been trained on their use with work.

Hi ubbie ,

I did ask yib about using your photo I am sorry I did not realise was your original . I have changed my bye line. Any problems me using photo please let me know. Also try Adobe photoshop business edition available free. Is old but I find an easy way to get familiar with photoshop or similar

Re pricing apart from 10% GST saving, most companies hedge against the Au dollar rising of falling this means not matter what, the TOTAL import cost remains the same. IE if Au dollar goes up lose money on the hedge equal too the profit made on import. You direct importing get another 20/30% bonus.

With DSLR dirt and humidity are now real enemies. I like the prosumer High optical zoom. Compact and large range a;; from one item. Also SLR you tended to keep bodies for ages and upgrade glass all the time. With digital constant advances means bodies only current 4 years, at most 7 years as operating systems as well force body changes. And fewer glass changes.

For most people I question the cost of DSLR considering the regular upgrading costs.

For

[*Yibida*]

Hi Shyer, I did task Ubb if he minded you using Pepsi fly before I responded to you with a yes, Ubb took the great shot I just merely added to it slightly, we're all friendly here, you asked me and I asked Ubb's...and that's the way it should work.... what a great site this is !...Might have to nick name you Blowy now?...LOLOLOL