Oz Round Table
The Oz Round Table boards => The Round Table => Topic started by: shyer on October 13, 2009, 03:41:39 PM
-
I will start, for holidays, picnics , family and friends I mainly use a Lumix dmc-fz5 bought second hand reconditioned with warranty for $300 two years ago . Now good examples can be got for $150 in USA or UK with high Aus dollar. There are no real duds out there you get what you pay for some people want some features others want others. However you can never change the over or under exposure loss of detail, blur due to hand shake or subject movement, bad composition you are always stuck with. Just as bad flash placement or glare a polarizer could have eliminated.
The lumix I use I class as a compact ultra optical zoom, digital zoom is useless, any computer can do that. Sony, Canon, Pentax, Nikon and many others make excellent cameras in this class. What I like about the lumix is for the price and risk of damage near water or dust is a very good lens for $ with simple or manual settings. It is also one of the few that allows filters. The main negatives are a very weak flash common in this category. Propertied batteries no top ups at local servo again common in category, biggest gripe is no hot shoe.
For eBay, work and similar I use 2 Samson gx-10 mainly to avoid changing lens too often. Dirt is a real problem for digital SLRs. I am embarrassed to count my lens as I only regularly use about 20 of them. The other 200 odd. I justify as a having a collector interset in photographic history. OH I believe in Santa clause too. Same comments apply though, all the manufacturers have good products in their price bracket.
I also have some film bodies ( well more than a few I have tello disease in film) occasionally used.
-
I also have some film bodies ( well more than a few I have tello disease in film) occasionally used.
:wtf: :tello:
:roughend:
-
Tello we need to start a self help group for collectors who are addicts.
-
Should it be mandatory for amateur photographers to have a stand, to avoid hand shake?
-
Tello we need to start a self help group for collectors who are addicts.
Have at it, but leave me OUT OF IT!!! :scold:
-
Since this started about photographing coins here I feel is the first step a light box / tent. This applies to stamps all small objects even dresses for instance but now a tent of white sheets etc.
http://www.wikihow.com/Create-an-Inexpensive-Photography-Lightbox (http://www.wikihow.com/Create-an-Inexpensive-Photography-Lightbox)
My light boxes are usually all white or grey or black with the "TOP" often slideable. The illustrated one with brown and white inside the box will make some items muddy especially light brown ones. With practise a few minutes a new one whipped up for series of shots. I find flash a lot better than tissue paper or desk lights. Modern flashes are cheap and changeable, point slightly away from subject or aim at white roof. Tissue paper or Vaseline over flash lens all diffuse the light.
Also to answer the countess flash occurs over about 1/1000 of a second thus hand shake or insect movement now not an issue. Natural light only and often below 1/60th of a second hand shake a real problem, let alone the moving insect. Tripods are slow to set up, bulky and fiddly with electronic releases. And hard to compose with. The other flash advantage is close focused objects will have shallow Depth of Field (DOF) is lens is fully open. With flash can close aperture down so DOP useable. Look at earlier stamp shots in other thread to see DOF problems.
Find what works for you is simple, quick and slowly experiment step by step.
-
Here Is a cheap flash, I use these as slave remote flashes cheap if water spill or someone sits on chair positioned on. Also fine as first hotshoe flash.
http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.12302 (http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.12302)
These are remote triggers but if you want to start using remotes.
http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.2321 (http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.2321)
This model uses built in flash, to trigger remote flash remote flash usually mounted on small desktop tripod. Wireless also available note prices IN USA $ and includes postage to Australia.
http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.6201 (http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.6201)
A few more items small and cheap
http://kaidomain.com/ProductDetails.aspx?ProductId=4395 (http://kaidomain.com/ProductDetails.aspx?ProductId=4395)
-
I have a Panasonic Lumix 12 x optical zoom with motion stabilizer... I purchased it for action / surveillance shots at long range...the macro is superb also.....
(http://a.img-dpreview.com/news/0210/panasonicdmcfz1.jpg)
-
I purchased it for action / surveillance shots at long range..
Dude.....ya just tipped-off the Coinerz.
Now ya gotta get a disguise.
Wonker!
-
One camera does it all for me
I have a Nikon Coolpix 8700, a Ranox DCR-1850 Pro tele lens attachment, a Raynox M-250 Macoe lens attachment and a Nikon hotshoe flash.
The cost of that setup was around $500 at the time (some of the parts were used)
With that setup I can produce very high quality pictures just by adding some talent hehehehehe
-
As a coinee, I am more into macro photography even though I do take the occassional portraits/landscapes. Well into the twilight of my years now, I am compensating my failing eyesight with huge macro shots of my collection to look for any imperfections.
I now use a Nikon DSLR and two fast prime macro lenses (60mm f:2.8 and a 150mm f:2.8), both lenses have 1:1 magnification.
For lighting, I use a ring type flash (Nikon R1C1).
Still experimenting with this toy but I can now capture these sort of shots.
(http://www.boomspeed.com/mugarinya1/COF_2001_R.jpg)
-
here are a few examples of my humble efforts ;D
(http://i673.photobucket.com/albums/vv95/ozrt/SunsetHoneymoonBayDec141-1.jpg)
(http://i673.photobucket.com/albums/vv95/ozrt/SunsetDogesFerry.jpg)
(http://i673.photobucket.com/albums/vv95/ozrt/Lydia7.jpg)
(http://i673.photobucket.com/albums/vv95/ozrt/DawnattheDock27-113.jpg)
(http://i673.photobucket.com/albums/vv95/ozrt/MarilynMushroom.jpg)
(http://i673.photobucket.com/albums/vv95/ozrt/HairyButterflyEye.jpg)
-
You need to visit WA for some beautiful scenery Poddy.
I'll find some of my better shots [not in this computer] for posting tomorrow.
As mentioned before, Sony DSC-H5 here.
It's the only camera I have currently so I can't take a picture of it !
-
Poddy here are photos and review of Sony h5. I find this site good for camera reviews I read front page then conclusion, then last page, get to from drop down box at top. And final selection is based on photo comparison of same items or views. Wether landscape, protrait, macro etc. Other sites I use for lens reviews.
Do not get bogged in details the photo results are all that matters for the shots you take.
http://www.dpreview.com/reviews/sonyh5/ (http://www.dpreview.com/reviews/sonyh5/)
Looking at the excellent macro shot coinfussious has provided . A ring flash probably needs an explanation. Read review here the "Ring" is the large circle that uses the screw thread on front of lens to mount the other rings are adaptors for different size lens threads. Also notice the price that equates to about $900AU with GST and higher OZ markups.
http://reviews.cnet.com/flashes/nikon-sb-r1c1/4505-13039_7-31647486.html (http://reviews.cnet.com/flashes/nikon-sb-r1c1/4505-13039_7-31647486.html)
I have 2 Cobra ring flashes made in UK, only available S/H now, a lot available in UK for $100AU plus not tied to Nikon bodies. Can adapt to pentax, canon etc, virtually any body.
-
Coinfussoius excellent coin shot shows the two basics of photography light and composition well executed. Not only is photo a good one for selling, trading, buying, examining the item. It is also interesting for a non coin collector. Notice the reflection ring around the coin. Normally a predominately black object with a black back ground would be a NO NO. Think always in terms of tones IE what would appear in black and white film. However in this case the silver detail is great because of black back ground and the silver completely separates the two blacks.
Coinfussius has controlled the lighting got good depth of field because well lit, and with a good background choice of tone, colour and texture created an interesting composition for non coinies as well. My personal view is that ring flashes are more suited to insects, live objects even portraits. But Coinfusious coin shot demonstrates, what works for you use it.
The hairy moth poddy has shot, would probably have been able to get a greater DOF with a ring flash. The out of focus area however does help to highlight the details of the hair in focus. The camera only controls two things basically the size of opening expressed as aperture IE f2 for most lens fully open IE 50 dia lens 50 mm hole, to f32 nearly closed same 50mm lens 3mm dia hole is all the slither of light let in. The closer to F32 you get the greater the DOF. Camera also controls the time the lens is left open ie 5 mins for a time lapse to 1/2000 of a sec for a fast moving object like a horse at gallop or race car in full roar.
-
Should it be mandatory for amateur photographers to have a stand, to avoid hand shake?
Hi countessa never really answered this Nothing is mandatory what works for you is all that matters. Full size and strength tripods are heavy and even folded are bulky. Desk top tripods have the same head adjustments but impossible to balance for some angles. Full size tripods should always have hook. This is to weight the tripod for wind or adjustments before locking angle. Camera bag or shopping bags with dirt or rocks even about 5 /10 kgs I find best. Also some string / octopus strap so weight is hanging just off the ground is more stable than at top of tripod.
There are many ways to reduce hand shake most digital cameras in the over $300 new price bracket have some form of anti shake built in. But at best only moves from 1/120th of a second to 1/60th of a second. Using rests not tripods I have gone to over 1 minute on some shots. Rests are car roofs , door frames , veranda posts, table is better than chair. Dead non living weight is the key. Trees are OK but in mild wind they move.
Eg night shot of water with not a lot of light but magnificent reflections and background. I want foreground 10 meters in focus and background 1000 meters in focus need about F8 depending on lens.
Anything like a car roof, brick bar-b-q , post for sign , anything that is solid. Put a layer of heavy cloth between camera and rest . Two sides thin sweater, a walking sox, even 4 layers newspaper , aim at view press firmly but not hard ie 2 kg milk carton to lift or move. Stand in comfortable position and press button gently, remove finger. Then breathing shallow no movement at all, Balance spare on rest as well wait for Shot to finish.
Takes some practice but is useable. Also telephoto lens longer they are the more stability they need. Over 400mm in my opinion full daylight needs some sort of rest or stand.
-
Shucks shyer, many thanks for the critique.....you have me walking around with a blown up head now ;D
On a serious note, the beauty of digital shots is that I can shoot as many as I want without worrying about development/processing costs. I feel that by doing so, you will eventually strike a medium of what your desired outcome is from your photos.
This one is of a solid gold coin where I wanted part of the coin lighted up to show gold.
(http://www.boomspeed.com/mugarinya1/1983_Kruggerand_proof_reverse.jpg)
This one is of a tiny fly taken with the 150mm F2.8 macro prime at a distance of 2 feet.
(http://www.boomspeed.com/mugarinya1/DSC_1579.jpg)
-
....lastly this is my foray into landscapes, taken from the back of my house of the gathering storm before the onslaught of a cyclone.
This one is taken with a 30mm f1.4 prime. Very grateful for your comments.
(http://www.boomspeed.com/mugarinya1/Yande5.jpg)
-
Thanks for that information, Shyer. I now release how pitifully little I know about achieving distinctive photographs - and Coinfucius, I'm in awe of that beautiful shot of the coin.
-
What is the saying we need to alter it,
Red sky at night shepards delight,
Red sky in the morning shepards warning,
Blue and purple skys to cellar running.
-
Poddys photos show what can be done with what many experts (one defination of a spurt is "a drip under pressure) would call a point and shoot carmera. Good compositions and catching the light from the best angle .
The face is just the right angle with soft light , skin tones are the hardest colours to photogragh accurately.
The setting sun, blocked behind the tree stops the auto exposure from under exposing the rich colours.
The mushroom and computer editing.
The twinkle star effect and bubbles on blue water I again suspect computer editing.
You can buy cheap, small, light weight, star filters. One light works well in editing many lights is very hard to get the right balance.
This is all one lens, landscape to macro with not a lot of manual over rides available.
-
On a serious note, the beauty of digital shots is that I can shoot as many as I want without worrying about development/processing costs. I feel that by doing so, you will eventually strike a medium of what your desired outcome is from your photos.
I could not agree more coinfucious , as someone who had his first Instamatic at 5 saved for his first 35mm at 8 , was developing film at 10 when I was allowed to handle the chemicals, built my first enlarger and darkroom at 14. Digital costs are cents per hundred shots. And cropping and all the chemicals, dedicated darkrooms, high experimentation costs , enlarger / lens / filters and touch up mediums all in the dustbin.
Digital Photograph has made top quality both affordable and easier to learn.
-
My only attempt at coin photography ;D
(http://i673.photobucket.com/albums/vv95/ozrt/12th1.jpg)
(http://i673.photobucket.com/albums/vv95/ozrt/8th1.jpg)
-
I am primarily a coinie and I use Nikon D60 with image stabilisation and the standard 28-80 macro lens it came with. Still saving for a dedicated macro lens, but I do have a copy stand and good lights to take decent coin pictures with.
(http://www.australian-threepence.com/images//australia-1956-2s-out-of-collar.jpg)
-
One camera does it all for me
I have a Nikon Coolpix 8700, a Ranox DCR-1850 Pro tele lens attachment, a Raynox M-250 Macoe lens attachment and a Nikon hotshoe flash.
The cost of that setup was around $500 at the time (some of the parts were used)
With that setup I can produce very high quality pictures just by adding some talent hehehehehe
Here is review of camera still nearly $1000AU new, S/H I have seen in low $200AU recently. As S/H Quality at a bargain price.
http://www.dpreview.com/reviews/nikoncp8700/ (http://www.dpreview.com/reviews/nikoncp8700/)
Here is review of tele Raynox . These lens or filters are hard to classify they are on front of lens and need a lens to use, so they are a filter? Or they are a lens, as it has 8 lens inside unit. Notice price of these Some $150 AU new . There are a lot of $50 even $100 new of these telephoto / Macro / wide angle converters. I have never seen a cheap one with good optics thus the whole group is tarred with cheap and nasty. S/H very cheap, wether good or bad optics. If you can get a good one S/H grab it, for small camera bag. New I have to ask the question is the $150 better spent on a dedicated lens? A dedicated tele/ wide / macro lens will always have better optics.
http://www.epinions.com/review/Raynox_DCR_1540PRO__1_54x__Telephoto__dcr1540pro_/content_274225532548 (http://www.epinions.com/review/Raynox_DCR_1540PRO__1_54x__Telephoto__dcr1540pro_/content_274225532548)
Look at cyclone sky picture from coinfusious or his macro shots, the detail a dedicated lens captures is amazing.
-
To clarify a converter in the film SLR world aways went between the body and lens mainly either macro or tele converters. Very popular both amateur and professionals as small light thus easily transported and with good quality units zero or near zero reduction in clarity. All had a small reduction in light through put so slower shutter speed or more open lens. Here is a cheap adjustable macro converter for digitals. However NOT suitable for mobile use.
http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.16277 (http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.16277)
Solid tubes suitable for mobile use
http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.2325 (http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.2325)
And A tele converter tube
http://www.adorama.com/PRO2XNKAF.html (http://www.adorama.com/PRO2XNKAF.html)
-
I am primarily a coinie and I use Nikon D60 with image stabilisation and the standard 28-80 macro lens it came with. Still saving for a dedicated macro lens, but I do have a copy stand and good lights to take decent coin pictures with.
Touch it you die if you look at earlier stamp macro photos link I put up you will see some 50mm prime lens shots using / not using reversing ring with / out extension tubes. I sold a manual 50mm prime 1.4 nikor lens for about $90 two years ago price would still be similar . Optics 99% slight dust, lens body a few Marks, perfect all moving parts.
Team with a $50 macro bellows and look at range you have.
With 50mm lens and macro bellows .75 to 3 times macro. With reversing ring and bellows 2.5 to 8 times macro. For mobile use you also have a wonderful portrait lens and some small macro filters as well available . Total cost well under $200. And superb glass and extras allways worth what you paid for them. Manual focus and settings but light is the key in all macro work and thus always manual anyway. Here is a reversing ring check which Nikon series your body uses.
http://www.adorama.com/MCRRNK52.html?searchinfo=reversing+ring (http://www.adorama.com/MCRRNK52.html?searchinfo=reversing+ring)
-
PS touch here is link to photo set of stamps macro, to what I class as micro 30 times or more life size.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/11976328@N03/sets/72157601617898886/detail/ (http://www.flickr.com/photos/11976328@N03/sets/72157601617898886/detail/)
Also notice final flash shot exposure untouched. A 42 meter flash used while only 200 mm from stamp. Enough light for a building in complete dark 42 meters away. Most fixed lens cameras pop up flashes are good for about 5 meters. Some DSLR pop ups go to 10 or a bit further . Hotshoe flashes full size swivel and zoom and tilt start at 20 meters. 40 meters means 4 20 meter flashes synced. from 5 to 10 meters is 4 times as much light and battery power. 10 to 20 another 4 times 20 to 40 is 64 times.
This is why pop up are small , not enough battery power to run camera and large flash.
-
For coins you really need a 100mm or 150mm lens to get the camera > 12 inches away from the coin for optimal lighting while still filling up the lens of the camera. 150mm is ideal as you can get 18 inches away. Now I dont know how those extender ring thingies work but will they allow you to do this?
-
Very true touch it ;D
With short lenses, you have the additional problem of your cam/lens reflected in the highly reflective fields of a proof coin. However macro primes over 100mm are not cheap and are also heavy with all the glass in it. Depending on the brand and model, they can cost as much as the camera if not more. However, there are excellent third party lenses that are just as good as the OEM ones. SIGMA, TOKINA & TAMRON are three that springs to mind.
The majority of my coin shots are taken with a SIGMA 150mm F2.8 APO MACRO DG. At a shade over 1K, it is less than half the price of a comparable one from the NIKON stable.
Take a look at this shot of one of the coins from the 2000 Sydney Olympics....you should be able to make out the joey that is in the roo's pouch (I have use a link to this shot as the site reduces the overall pixels in downsizing of the photo).
http://www.boomspeed.com/mugarinya1/DSC_1370.jpg (http://www.boomspeed.com/mugarinya1/DSC_1370.jpg)
Other good points to remember are:
1. Check the white balance.
2. Shoot in raw mode instead of one of the preset programs.
Cheers
-
Very true touch it .
The majority of my coin shots are taken with a SIGMA 150mm F2.8 APO MACRO DG. At a shade over 1K, it is less than half the price of a comparable one from the NIKON stable.
. Shoot in raw mode instead of one of the preset programs.
Cheers
Touch I agree with coinfucious, however there are cheaper alternatives if finances do not permit or justify an expensive option. The expensive option will only give better results if the photographer is experienced,talented and practiced like coinfusious. The 50 mm prime and bellows will give you a workable solution, for 20% of the cost of expensive option. As well getting you a quality 1.4f prime lens to experiment with.
These flash brackets are also something to consider for hand held use. I gave links earlier for cheap flashes and converters. Only $10 good for tripod can make a handle from wood rubber whatever to use handheld. Even the the small desktop tripods folded and hand held.
http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/93392-REG/General_Brand_VA322_Straight_Flash_Bracket.html (http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/93392-REG/General_Brand_VA322_Straight_Flash_Bracket.html)
This is a $80 bulky option, however very adjustable. These two units stand out personally, for either costs or features. 100s of designs to chose from.
http://www.alzodigital.com/online_store/flip_flash_bracket_digital_camera.htm (http://www.alzodigital.com/online_store/flip_flash_bracket_digital_camera.htm)
http://
-
Here are three S/H macro lens suitable for coins. Note the Nikon one is nearly new price. $800Au with post
http://www.adorama.com/US%20%20%20%20354656.html (http://www.adorama.com/US%20%20%20%20354656.html)
Similar in pentax a little cheaper but not as long cheaper new , cheaper S/H. $650AU with post.
http://www.adorama.com/US%20%20%20%20356914.html (http://www.adorama.com/US%20%20%20%20356914.html)
Both of these relatively new digital auto focus lens. Here is a Manual focus lens auto aperture and macro is always manual. You can see the advantage of using a body that is backward compatible. Now Cost is only $300AU. This shop tends to be dearer but usually open to sensable offers other store is fixed price.
http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/800658173-USE/Pentax__Macro_50mm_f_2_8_SMCP_A.html (http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/800658173-USE/Pentax__Macro_50mm_f_2_8_SMCP_A.html)
These are both reputable dealers I have bought from grading is accurate. All lens are good glass and quality materials and well designed.
-
Another cheap way to take very close macro shots is investing in the purchase of a reverse macro adapter (about $15.00). This will enable you to mount your lens the other way around like thus...
(http://www.boomspeed.com/mugarinya1/macroReverseadapter.jpg)
.....here are examples of some shots I have taken of a 2004 uncirculated dollar coin using this method.
http://www.boomspeed.com/mugarinya1/2004_halo.jpg (http://www.boomspeed.com/mugarinya1/2004_halo.jpg).
http://www.boomspeed.com/mugarinya1/2004_a.jpg (http://www.boomspeed.com/mugarinya1/2004_a.jpg)
http://www.boomspeed.com/mugarinya1/2004_e.jpg (http://www.boomspeed.com/mugarinya1/2004_e.jpg)
Cheers
-
Good morning all.
I need advise. I'm thinking about buying a new camera & have been looking around. My current digital camera is an old Kodak 5 megas with about 6 times optical zoom. I have been considering a few & was told Nikon is a good brand.
What's this one like, Ebay item 350268959997, it's a Nikon Coolpix P80 Digital Camera + 8GB + Case Kit .
There are tons of cameras listed on Ebay & many sellers are based in Hong Kong, some with good feedback & some with not so good feedback. Has anyone had any experience, good or bad, with sellers from Hong Kong?
I'm also considering a digital SLR style camera.
-
Further to my questions above, how about this one, 200398065097, Olympus SP-590 26X Zoom UZ Digital Camera SP590.I don't know anything about Olympus, are they OK?
-
What's this one like, Ebay item 350268959997, it's a Nikon Coolpix P80 Digital Camera + 8GB + Case Kit .
Or Olympus SP-590
I'm also considering a digital SLR style camera.
There are really three questions here what is your photo subject matter ? Macro / family / landscape.? what is maximum print size you use? Is it mostly daylight or Flash?
All the good brands and that includes Nikon and Olympus make cameras that are competitive in their price bracket. One thing to consider with the ultra zooms any zoom over 300mm in 35 mm equivalent. A rest or tripod is needed even with image stabilisation in daylight. The less light the greater the problem. The factory demo Nikon here is probably the better $ buy nearly 1/2 the price with virtually the same hand held usable features.
That said neither of these units has a hotshoe, lens shade OR any way of mounting filters. Any daylight filter protects your lens and things like Polaroid filters. In some situations these filters enable a good photo without them forget it. IE Sydney dust storm last month a zoom lens I would not take out of camera bag, without daylight filter to seal. Not worried about dust on lens that I can clean, it is dust in zoom lens and moving parts is the problem.
DSLR is not a compact all in one solution, like any of these ultra zoom compacts. I use an older only 12 times compact for family snaps etc. Worth today $150 if it gets stolen at beach or rained on at football, sat on at birthbay party, not a calamity. DSLR I use for ebay and other shots where quality is important and I am concentrating on the camera not the event I am at.
-
Thanks for that advise Shyer. It is very informative & will infuence my final decision.
how about this camera. Ebay 200398065146 Olympus SP-590 UZ Digital Camera +8GB Kit SP590 NEW, what are your thoughts?
-
I feel the Nikon is better $ value as nearly 1/2 the price and hand useable effectively same features.
If you look at page one of this thread camera poddy uses and also some varying types of photos poddy has taken with it. Recently Compleated Ebay no 260489128085 $300Au . I in first comment talk about similar lumix I use. Poddys Nikon has the advantage of flash hotshoe at twice lumix S/H price . Both have sun hoods and filter options.
The Olympus you are looking at is nearly $500Au delivered you are getting towards starter DSLR money. No Hoods, hotshoe or Filter options or all other DSLR options.
IE eBay 310173625346 body and starter lens $600AU above average use. Older but better value 250517053976 with two lens. Less used and $500AU two lens cover 28mm to 450mm some features not on older camera may be important to you. I sold my 1*st bodies to buy gx10 bodies as the waterproofing, auto sensor clean and anti shake features were important to me. The rise in pixels was immaterial. You want lens Quality not pixels and is one argument against 24X optical zoom Olympus at either extreme of zoom problems, common with all those ultra ultra zooms.
-
shyer,
Funny you should mention that item number hahahahaha it is one I re comended as a good buy to a person I know. ;D
It hasn't arrived yet but it is expected by the end of the week.
There was also one in the US that went for AU$246.66 postage inclusive i was tempted to bid on that one for myself as a spare. Ubb would do well to wait for anotherone to come up, they range from $300-$400 and their original cost was over $2000.
Most people get conned into going for Digital SLRs which is fine if you have deep pockets and don't mind carrying around a huge gadget bag full of expensive lenses.
I like the Nikon because it has an electronic colour viewfinder as well as a an LCD display, great for taking shots in high level light conditions, it also has a hotshoe as well as an inbuilt speedlight.
The battery is of the re chargable lithium-ion type which holds more energy than Ni-Mh, with an adapter tube you can add filters and add-on lenses.
In summary I would compare my camera system to justabout any Digital SLR at 5 times the cost . :)
-
Poddy. The Nikon you refer to in your last post, which one is that?
-
Hi Ubb,
This is the one it is a Nikon Coolpix 8700 this is the item number of the one that was got for a friend
260489128085
They come up for auction fairly regularly I'll keep my eye open for you if you like :)
-
Well, I took the plunge & bought a new camera. It's a PANASONIC Lumix DMC-FZ35 with the following;
12.1 Megapixels , 18 Optical zoom ( I took note of Shyer & Poddy & didn't go for a gazillion optical zooms). It is supplied with an 8gb card, a spare battery charging stuff & all the other bits & pieces.
Unlike the Nikon I was originally considering, the PANASONIC Lumix is threaded & will take filters.
Now all I have to do is learn how to use it.
Thanks Shyer & Poddy for your advise & help.
-
.......... It's a PANASONIC Lumix DMC-FZ35 with the following;
12.1 Megapixels , 18 Optical zoom ( I took note of Shyer & Poddy & didn't go for a gazillion optical zooms)............ Now all I have to do is learn how to use it.
Ubbrd having used the DMC-FZ5 for years I am sure you will enjoy your camera. My pros include good modes, options, small and light. A real handbag or jacket pockets camera. The major flaw for me is ebay style macro shots, with no hotshoe built in flash usually leaves a shadow from lens over bottom of photo.
To over come this I use this item. $11 including post with, from same site all metal table top tripod $10/20
http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.19326 (http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.19326)
If you do not have a flash any hotshoe flash will do regardless of age. In my lumix kit I have a small powerfull 30 year old flash ( expensive new) now worth $5 at most. Or new this $30 one largeish with all the twist and swivel you need.
http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.6242 (http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.6242) and
http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.5176 (http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.5176)
-
Good advise Shyer. I saw a flash listed on Ebay that screws to the tripod mounting hole on the base of the camera & it automatically goes off when the camera's flash goes off. I don't know how it works but it wasn't too expensive. Pity I accidently wiped all my watched items, now i'll have to do a search on Ebay & try to find it.
The flash is supposed to be good for 50 feet (in the old scale)
-
...... I don't know how it works but it wasn't too expensive...... The flash is supposed to be good for 50 feet (in the old scale)
The best comparison is to use meters is this 50ft is 17 meters and make sure measurement uses standard F2.8 at ISO100 .The trigger above uses the light from the pop up flash to trigger the stand alone flash. The pro is they have no batteries to go flat and small and light. The con is they need to be within a meter or five of pop up flash and trigger window able to see pop up light.
I would avoid a 17 meter flash as not much further than standard 9 meter pop up. While nearly as bulky as 25 meter flash, one above only $30. Also using tripod mount to hold flash is not as good as a bar that holds camera and flash and can still accept tripod. Which can be done with kit above. Also kit above is useable without bar. The best position for ANY flash is off axis to lens, light diffused and ideally some 1 to 5 meters away from camera.
While your new camera cost you some $500 with transport most people will upgrade units like this every 3 to 6 years and old unit will get a $100 as trade or as gift value. They usually keep their hotshoe flash/ tripods / triggers / bars / filters etc. Not just to defray upgrade costs, but familar with using those extras. I have flashes / tripods/ filters/ bars etc I still use I bought 30 years ago.
-
Hi Ubb,
This is the one it is a Nikon Coolpix 8700 this is the item number of the one that was got for a friend
260489128085.....
update here is a cheaper unit maybe a little more banged about 230398189219 $230US and with post $300AU. Even saw one sell at $220US. While more optical zoom for 8800 claimed, loss of quality at both extremes now, compared to 8700 . The big advantage over 8700 is vibration assist. While vibration assist is not relevant for flash use. Is helpful for natural light use, especially macro or high zoom.
-
Here is an interesting comparison amazon prices for used coolpix 8800 good to refurbished $400US to $700US plus post.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/offer-listing/B00061S2OO/ref=dp_olp_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1258439258&sr=8-1 (http://www.amazon.com/gp/offer-listing/B00061S2OO/ref=dp_olp_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1258439258&sr=8-1)
And compleated ebay items for camera only, $200US to $270US plus post.
http://completed.shop.ebay.com/Digital-Cameras-/31388/i.html?LH_Complete=1&_nkw=coolpix%208800&_catref=1&_dmpt=Digital_Cameras&_fln=1&_trksid=p3286.c0.m283&_rdc=1 (http://completed.shop.ebay.com/Digital-Cameras-/31388/i.html?LH_Complete=1&_nkw=coolpix%208800&_catref=1&_dmpt=Digital_Cameras&_fln=1&_trksid=p3286.c0.m283&_rdc=1)
ebay good to buy on bUT bad to sell on? I have noticed some real bargains on ebay since "best match" introduced
-
G'day Shyer. I got my new camera, a PANASONIC Lumix DMC-FZ35, from a trader on Ebay in Hong Kong. It was half the Australian Retail price & included an extra battery, an 8Gig memory card & other stuff. The feedback for the seller was good so I took the punt & it was worth it. I realise I can't claim a warranty but I took the risk.
Your avatar came from my new camera (Macro zoom) & Yib whacked the Pepsi in it's gob. I don't know how to do that microsoft paint stuff but Yib's very good at it..
My next move is to buy a digital SLR camera. I'm more familiar with SLR cameras (old 35m types) having been trained on their use with work.
-
....My next move is to buy a digital SLR camera. I'm more familiar with SLR cameras (old 35m types) having been trained on their use with work.
Hi ubbie ,
I did ask yib about using your photo I am sorry I did not realise was your original . I have changed my bye line. Any problems me using photo please let me know. Also try Adobe photoshop business edition available free. Is old but I find an easy way to get familiar with photoshop or similar
Re pricing apart from 10% GST saving, most companies hedge against the Au dollar rising of falling this means not matter what, the TOTAL import cost remains the same. IE if Au dollar goes up lose money on the hedge equal too the profit made on import. You direct importing get another 20/30% bonus.
With DSLR dirt and humidity are now real enemies. I like the prosumer High optical zoom. Compact and large range a;; from one item. Also SLR you tended to keep bodies for ages and upgrade glass all the time. With digital constant advances means bodies only current 4 years, at most 7 years as operating systems as well force body changes. And fewer glass changes.
For most people I question the cost of DSLR considering the regular upgrading costs.
For
-
Hi Shyer, I did task Ubb if he minded you using Pepsi fly before I responded to you with a yes, Ubb took the great shot I just merely added to it slightly, we're all friendly here, you asked me and I asked Ubb's...and that's the way it should work.... what a great site this is !...Might have to nick name you Blowy now?...LOLOLOL
-
Ubbie,
Don't waste you cash on a digital SLR the photo principals are identical what you have is great and you don't have to have a multiplicity of changeable lenses
Also after a while the dust on the CCD becomes a bit of a problem due to lens changes.
-
hahahahahah
Might have to nick name you Blowy now?...LOLOLOL
Or maybe blue arse
-
I'd agree with Poddy about the Digital SLR - unless you had very clear and specific reasons for going down that road.
The main reason why SLR's made their impact was because they were able to give you a viewfinder that displayed the exact image you were photographing and observable focus with whatever lenses were used - and with no parallax error.
You get that now with any digital camera with a viewing screen (which is 99.99% of them).
-
hahahahahah Might have to nick name you Blowy now?...LOLOLOL
I liked photo as nothing worse than a pesky fly zip zip zip, let alone one Over dosed on pesi max. erabba erabba fastest pesky fly in the world
-
G'day everyone. Never was a problem you using Fergus as your avatar Shyer. I'm pleased to see it used. Yib consulted me & I said I was more than happy. Yib did the clever work whacking the can of Pepsi in Fergus's mit, I just took the picture.
Poddy & Brumby. I hear your message, I guess it would be a waste of money when the Panasonic I've now got does so much.
-
Well poddy I purchased a S/H coolpix 8800 from USA at $275AU including fees and air post. It included 4 GB memory card, near dead battery(more later only $20 to fix), very few photos under 500, but lots of transport KMs, some rub marks and on / off switch is touchy. I wanted a compact macro mainly for internet use.
First fault is Nikon manual tells to you discharge battery before storage. WRONG !!!! Best storage for Lin ion is 80% charge and left in fridge in hot climate. It has arrived and have fiddled with it for a few days . The VR assist is really worth the extra money. Since daylight temps have been 40, not at lot of outside use yet.
As an all in one camera. The pluses are clarity is very good, close to current DSLR the larger sensor and lens really shows. Surprisingly the extra size of camera is not noticed in camera bag with, manual, extra battery, charger, flash, mini tripod, filters, hood. While the majority of high zoom cameras are tiny all the rest is the same size. The lens is probably best in class I have used , used 6 different models over the years. The flash is also on a par for average use with the better DSLR pop up flashes. Generally Leaves other compact camera flashes for dead. Also the swivel screen is a real bonus.
Now the cons . For me and macro work the built is flash does not pop up high enough thus close focus ends up with major lens shadow. Yes I know how to fix . But now not point and shoot. It is a real shame as the size of camera would allow a pop up over twice as high and help in ALL flash situations. The other big con is hotshoe is an industry standard. THIS is NOT. Unit only recognises Nikon flashes they start at $300 for S/H basic models to what is your bank balance.
I have ordered a new compact $150 Nikon compatible flash (only $50 for all other cameras) and will be surprised if is not 200% better than, the very basic 200% more expensive Nikon. Nikon probably discontinued this model as it "competed price wise" with their own starter DSLRs. Wrong!!! for most people this model, sometimes with additions covers everything they need at a fraction of the cost and size of any manufacturers DSLR and lenses. And doubles as a very useable quality video cam as well.
-
I found this today.
http://www.rainforestmagic.com.au/digital.html (http://www.rainforestmagic.com.au/digital.html)
While it is 2 to 4 years old I feel most of the comments apply especially if you are looking at second hand cameras. I do disagree with his general comment all point and shots are bad. Some p/s do have their uses even when compared to the most expensive cameras. While he also notes that only a few DSLR bodies are backward compatible the cost advantage of that not fully explained.
I also note he is now virtually using one body one lens with a few filters and close up attachments.
-
Good reading Shyer. I have saved the instruction for my own education.
-
Hi Ubbie, that article mentions a few programs to use, some no longer available and some now much more expensive than they were . I have got unlimited time trial versions of both Nikons, both raw , corel photo, and one I like canons arcsoft, PM me if interested.
-
Evening all. I did some photography taday, still learning. I put my camera on manual & mucked around with shutter speed, F settings etc.
I photographed a little kingfisher up on a flag pole. It was about 25 metres away & I now think I should have used a tripod but, have a gander at the pic. I still have a lot of learning to to.
I am still trying to work out how to get pictures down to a size that is acceptable to this forum. I'm using Fastestone Image Viewer. Some of the photos I take a several megs.
[attachment deleted by admin]
-
Hi shyer, ubbie and others, I guess it's tooo late to get a camera delivered by 25th??? What could Santa buy for $500 from a local camera supplier (Bendigo. Vic) 12 year old son is very interested in photographing birds :-* :lol: reptiles, scats, tracks etc...he is part of junior landcare and has a list of 63 birds he has already photographed with a hand held ricoh, regards Paul. We live on a farm.
-
Hi Paul.
Rather than rush a choice of pamphlet's can be a good Christmas present. Wildlife is one of the hardest things to photograph .
1 you can not get close too
2 Is always on the move
3 IS very hard to predict next position
4 wild life does not trust humans
Pm me with more details if you wish too
-
I have been using the coolpix 8800 and a hotshoe bower flash ( for Nikon's) and the Raynox 250. For the $50 new (from USA) this 250 is an amazing add on, small light and suits all systems and most lens. Quality is not a $500 / 5000 macro . For $50 new and cheaper if lucky to find S/H this is a BARGAIN and a near professional quality travel bag macro without equal.
Both the 8800 and flash so far have failed to impress the 8800 does not want to allow me to use the flash as I want. Fine for a point and shoot. But for a $140 flash and Bridge camera ( near DSLR) I am very unimpressed . Not the flashes fault it is fine, expensive because Nikon uses non standard hotshoe ( Nikon should not advertise hotshoe as it is NOT).
However bottom line is, in other systems cheaper flashes give better results.
-
Hi shyer, ubbie and others, I guess it's tooo late to get a camera delivered by 25th??? What could Santa buy for $500 from a local camera supplier (Bendigo. Vic) 12 year old son is very interested in photographing birds :-*a list of 63 birds he has already photographed with a hand held ricoh, regards Paul. We live on a farm.
Paul others may be interested in this as date moved to birthday. Since it is camera bodies (includes non detachable lens) Is the depreciating part in digital cameras IMHO. I examined 4 camera talkeds about here ( and assumed a life span). All Second hand except the new lumix fz 35 (8 years $75) ,the Lumix fz5 (5 years $60), the Nikon 8800 ( 7 years $85 ) and a pentax k10/gx10 (10 years $40 ) . The costs per year was actually very similar for 4 different segment of the market cameras. And the most expensive initially was the cheapest per year.
Have a look at this photo the smallest is lumix 420 Grams (both lumix similar size) the Nikon 780G the longest and the pentax 1300G not really bigger just heavier. All cameras have similar lens and ready for filters, extra flashes etc.
(http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y273/4wombat/lunniksam.jpg)
While I realise for a 12 year old $500 or more on a camera body might seem expensive over time it appears not just the cheapest option it is also the most versatile. A large question is he a 12 year old who will be carefull or careless?
-
Hi there Shyer, Thanks for your effort. Tried to ring the other night NCH. I'd put him in the category of "sensible" wont be held to that though. He just came DUX of the school, has been pres of school council, has met junior landcare people, has tried hard with pre ice-age equipment to photograph birds. Happy to go with your recommendation, Respect your opinion thanks.
-
G'day golden_city_coins. I've only just patched into this thread so I didn't see the question you posted a number of days ago. Shyer & others more experienced with cameras are better to reply as Shyer has already done.
I'm just a learner with this digital camera stuff.
I have bought the book Digital Photography for Dummies but haven't read it yet.
-
I would like to recommend a fine book entitled "Reading For Dummies". :lol:
-
Or one even better
'Reading for Drummies'
-
Careful Poddy - or Tello is going to tell you to beat it!
-
Looking for some tips here......
Insects,birds etc is not a problem at all, however, I thought I will set a real challenge for myself in taking close ups of some of the most dangerous creatures that live around here....photos of king browns,dugites, desert death adders.......yes, all venomous SNAKES.
By nature, they are very shy creatures and they move very fast.
Cheers
-
the safest way to take shots of venomous snakes is ......................................................
to get the wife to do it !
-
the safest way to take shots of venomous snakes is ......................................................
to get the wife to do it !
Hi smee...wouldn't that put the wild life at risk ?.....
-
the safest way to take shots of venomous snakes is ......................................................
to get the wife to do it !
Hi smee...wouldn't that put the wild life at risk ?.....
........I have to be kind to animals and creatures..... ;D
-
Oke Doke. I've been experimenting with Photoshop Elements 5 program which was very kindly given to me by one of our members.
This is a fly (yep another one). I've been trying out different techniques etc. I have so much to learn.
[attachment deleted by admin]
-
This was the original photo I took.
[attachment deleted by admin]
-
More Photoshop mucking around. this is the original photo
[attachment deleted by admin]
-
This is the photoshopped version.
[attachment deleted by admin]
-
These are beautiful shots, Ubbie. I'm still amazed at the DEPTH and clarity.
-
Thanks Countess. I'm very much a learner though. Photoshop is an amazing program.
-
Nice work Ubbie ;D
-
One more. this is a Blue Winged or Sacred Kingfisher photo I took. I mucked around with Photoshop & it turned out like this.
[attachment deleted by admin]
-
Re Post $73, #74...
Was going to make a couple of comments - until I saw the original shot.
Not bad at all!
Just one thing you may have noticed - On the bright spots with dark areas next to them, you can see a blue 'halo' on the right, which is more visible with very bright areas.
I won't go into details - but just be aware that there are a couple of different phenomena that can produce this and similar results. Some are caused by lenses and some by the digital sensor. You will find them on all digital cameras to varying degrees and they become more of a problem with bigger enlargement.
If you really want to get into it, you can start by looking up "chromatic aberrations", "blooming" and "lens flare".
The effort to provide better lenses and sensors to minimise these problems is more likely to be made on the more expensive cameras. The more discerning photographer will be looking for these, especially if their particular subjects of interest will show them up.
This is just to let you know about them - but I wouldn't fret too much. It mightn't be a problem for you - especially if you're not into extreme lighting and/or extreme enlargements.
-
One more. this is a Blue Winged or Sacred Kingfisher photo I took. I mucked around with Photoshop & it turned out like this.
Here's what I have to say about "Mucking around" ... Best way to learn!!
Interesting effect!
-
Imagine how easy it'd be to "brick" someone now with photoshop, :photo: :cop: :gossip: :ubbie: :welcomedesk: :brickpile: :judge: :zip: :evil: ;):gaol:
-
Oke Doke. I've been experimenting with Photoshop Elements 5 program which was very kindly given to me by one of our members. This is a fly .........
Hi Ubbie,
The digital magnification some 30 times I am guessing not knowing cropping really shows perfect exposure and good lens and sensor. One of the best high digital magnifications I have ever seen. You have already learnt a lot.
-
I agree shyer Ubb's has learned a lot since getting his new camera, very nice shots and clear !...
-
Thanks Shyer & Yib. I'm still very much a beginner & will always be learning.
I've got my eyes on a Nikon D90 (or 5000) Digital SLR camera But the Commander In Chief has different ideas. We need a new computer which will happen but, The Bride wants to do up my fishing/computer room & repaint it. She also wants me to get a new computer desk etc.
I'm battling to find room for 132 fishing rods (including 32 fly rods), a similar number of reels, line, hooks etc. My room is also my fly tying room & has a permanent fly tying station (desk). I'm insistent that my tying setup will remain.
I'm lucky my daughter has gone O/Seas for 2 years, I think I'll lay claims for her room to store some of my stuff.
Struth I forgot, I've also got 17 bows that need a place to live.
What am I gonna do?
-
I've got my eyes on a Nikon D90 (or 5000) Digital SLR camera But the Commander In Chief has different ideas.......Struth I forgot, I've also got 17 bows that need a place to live.What am I gonna do?
Ubbie a simple spreadsheet I did for golden showed the cheapest camera over time of, 5 to 10 years was a 1 or 2 year old light use superseded DSLR, with lots of warranty left usually extended at purchase. I am not a fan of Nikon , dear price for quality, and funny proprietary tricks , to force expensive Nikon accessories.
I also dislike canon DSLRs as their vibration assist is built into each lens, thus all new lens dearer . Also old lens without vibration assist now not as useable. For Golden I used example of Samsung (pentax rebadged) GX10 GX20 or K10/D k20/D pentax could also be looked at.
In any DSLRs Lens always retains value , buy S/H and sell, good lens will break even. Bodies are the things that depreciate FAST in DSLR land. So even if you go Pentax / Samsung now you can sell and move to Nikon later if features in another / model or brand you like. Also Pentax has cheapest S/H lens available for DSLRs Pentax lens , tamron or tokina many good brands out there.
All brands have cheap poor quality lens to very expensive top quality lens. Pentax / Samsung DSLRs being the most friendly to older lens. The Pentax Macro lens I used in the stamp set photos earlier post is 30 years old, today selling in the $75 range (new $70 in 1980 , in todays money 700). There are some 50 year old similar lens that are better and today dearer S/H.
Ubbie do not hesitate to PM me for links ect. Also send me the bows. I promise you!!! to send most of them back.
-
Shyer...looking at Ubb's pics that are perfect in color and clarity to me anyway... will he benefit from a DSLR ?...
Is the big outlay worth the money ?... are the quality of the pic's really that noticeable ?...I always thought DSLR's were for professionals who make a living from photography...
I lack in the camera knowledge department....
-
Join me in a more suitable hobby Birdie !
[attachment deleted by admin]
-
Thanks for the advise Shyer. I have taken note of what you say. Down the track if or when I decide to go SLR I will contact you.
I am currently using a Panasonic DMC-FZ35. It does amazing things. I am learning to use it manually so I don't have to rely too much on it's automatic function.
Yib . I learn't photography years ago for work but it was on the 35's, all manual. I've forgotten some of what I learn't but it will come back. I find it difficult to remember where all the functions are in the new digital camera but I hope it will sink in in time.
Smee. Love the hobby, it looks to be totally me. Can I be involved in that hobby & still learn photography?
-
Shyer...looking at Ubb's pics that are perfect in color and clarity to me anyway... will he benefit from a DSLR ?... Is the big outlay worth the money ?... are the quality of the pic's really that noticeable ?...I always thought DSLR's were for professionals who make a living from photography...
Hi Yibida,
As brumby points out above there is some lens and sensor faults noticeable in altered kingfisher photo. If you blow the fly photo to 150 X 100 size some of the background is pixleating. While Ubb's camera is very good for its price bracket. IT has a large zoom range, thus compromises in the lens, as a compact camera it has a small sensor.
A DSLR has a much larger sensor, mega pixels are not the real measure. A prime lens (not zoom) for same price will always beat a zoom in clarity, less distortion, etc.It all depends what you call a big outlay price per year to me is real test.
A new Nikon 8800 (Similar to poddys 8700 one of the best quality point and shoots ever made)was $1200 new two years ago with Nikon Flash( 8800 is not built to hotshoe standard) macro converters, filters again funny Nikon threads, Nikon no longer makes batteries to suit 8800, over $2000. Package worth now about $750 in another two years some of the bits worth $300 . 8800 then useless no batteries no parts.
$1800 / 4 years = $450 plus interest say $550 per year.
I will soon sell my pentax K100 DSLR body bought 4 years ago during run out still with warranty and parts available at least another 10 years. I paid $700 for the body and will get about $300. So $100 per year say $120 with interest. I had more options, better optics, more versatility for under 25% of the yearly cost of "cheaper" point and shoot.
-
Ubbs -you sound like us!
Except we don't have - what it is -
132 fishing rods (including 32 fly rods), a similar number of reels, line, hooks etc. My room is also my fly tying room & has a permanent fly tying station (desk). I'm insistent that my tying setup will remain. 17 bows (wow!!)
so we took the leap and reclaimed the 'moved out of home - 22 yrs old partly empty bedroom' = extra space
and we also just got 2 newish (his and hers) very senisble computer desks and a storage cabinet
and I made him clear his crap outta the shed/back room !!!
-
I've been experimenting with my camera, still at it trying to learn. I photographed this tiny bug. The photo is grainy (or is it noisy) but I zoomed in as I didn't want to spook the little critter.
[attachment deleted by admin]
-
Technically, grainy is for film emulsion and noisy is for digital sensors. While the causes are quite different, the effects are very similar - especially in low light situations.
But I wouldn't get too worried - a photographer will understand what you mean either way.
There are two additional considerations with digital cameras.
One is tied in very closely with the 'graininess' of an image and it is the physical limitation of the pixel size. On extreme enlargements, this becomes apparent when you can see the picture being made up of lots of blocks of colour - it's called 'pixellation'.
The other consideration is the format the picture is stored in. With the RAW format, it means exactly what the name suggests - every bit of information collected by the sensor is stored. No adjustments. No compression. This gives the absolute maximum image quality possible - but the image files are large.
JPEG files are more commonly used since they have a smaller file size - but they achieve this by compressing the image file in a way which results in 'losing' some of the detail. For the most part, this isn't as big a problem as it may sound. The human eye is also a pixel based image sensor but it has a rather incredible image processor - the human brain. It does some amazing feats of interpretation ....
Take this example: (http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v702/brumbymg/SizeExample.jpg)
1. Original Image - Lotsa detail you didn't even know was there!
2. What it was reduced to for the current OzRT 'logo'
3. A close-up look at #2.
Everybody can see #2 is a smaller version of #1 - but people will have difficulty believing #3 is of the same subject, let alone that it is exactly the same as #2. (If you stand back from you screen 20 feet or more, it will start to look like it though!)
As a result, you can do some pretty severe compression of a full-frame image and, in the right situation, still have a quite presentable picture. Web based photos are a classic.
BUT the truth becomes visible when you start blowing them up....
-
Right there.
And if you look closer at my face, you can see wrinkles.
The truth is in the closeup views.
-
Ubbie a good photo of an unusual insect, while I aggree 100% with what brumby has written. I actually like the out of focus greenery back ground . This causes humans to concentrate on the in focus elements bug and tiny flower. You can blow up the tiny flower and bug X6 or so before the bug pixilates to any extent.
Three comments the flower is only just in the picture, my opinion either compose the start image with flower a little further down from top (can always edit later) . Or cut the flower with more zoom thus more bug detail.
Or go for more magnification with something like Raynox M-250 Macro lens attachment , I purchased mine from USA $50 new with flash ($200 US) to reduce postage costs sold flash for a profit . Lot of photography gear is overpriced in Australia. There are lots of $20 cheapies but you get rubbish.
Finally a flash can be your friend in cases like this use your existing on camera flash to trigger a powerfull hand held flash. Details earlier in this thread this willl allow fast shutter speed ( no hand shake or insett movement) . Also allows further from inset using more zoom less likely to spook inset while composing. And the real benefit is greater depth of field all of insect and flower then in focus. Can play with back ground later.
Digital Photography has allowed amatures to play with macro and sub macro photos. Cost is now not prohibitive. And results seen instantly so adjustments made on the spot for corrections.
-
I actually have a computer disc that makes pixels out of normal photos.
It's used for making patterns for Cross Stitching.
It also makes up a chart that has the actual DMC thread colour for each pixel as well.....and even estimates how much of each colour I will need.
Handy little program! ;D
-
What?
Like none of yoos got wrinkles????
Poison me where I stand!
-
This is an enlarged version of the critter. It is not as good a macro photo as some of my previous ones. Still ecperimenting.
[attachment deleted by admin]
-
Getting carried away with the digital stuff and forgetting some basic photography!
Shyer has raised a very useful subject - depth-of-field...
Basically:
- wider aperture = narrower depth of field (and shorter exposure times)
- smaller aperture = greater depth of field (and longer exposure times)
For some shots, such as your insect above, having a narrow depth-of-field gives you a soft, fuzzy background, allowing the sharp image of the subject to stand out and draw the viewer's attention.
In other shots, having a very great depth-of-field is necessary to produce the desired result. Some of these are macro shots of the foreground subject, but with in-focus backgrounds. They can make for some very interesting pictures.
Getting technical ... depth-of-field is the range of distances where an image appears to be sharp.
I say 'appears' because an image is only ever focussed at a single distance. Any part of a subject closer or further away from the plane of focus will become progressively 'fuzzier'. The size of the aperture affects the rate at which this fuzziness occurs with change of distance. The smaller the aperture, the lower the rate of 'fuzziness' and the greater the depth-of-field.
However, while that fuzziness doesn't spill over into a neighbouring pixel on the sensor (for digital cameras) that part of the image will still look as sharp as it would be if it was directly focussed on. Even when this 'spilling over' does occur, the number of pixels that can be affected, yet still display a 'sharp' image, will depend on the resolution of the image, cropping, degree of enlargement, viewer distance and things like that. (The same principles apply to film cameras - but the grain size of the film is the equivalent to the pixel size in a digital camera.)
One other thing - if you have depth-of-field markings on your camera, understand they are only a suggestion as to the acceptable range. If you were to take photos that require high sharpness and were blown up to large sizes, you would soon see that this depth-of-field scale was far too generous - and you would need to observe a narrower scale for acceptable results.
So, while the maths and the physics show that true sharpness through the 'depth-of-field' is not the case, the human eye is the only thing that really counts - so that means it is real.
-
For anyone who wants to learn a bit more about Photoshop, there is a great book on sale at The Book Depository (US) at the moment:
http://www.bookdepository.com/book/9780321580092/The-Adobe-Photoshop-CS4-Book
-
What a ripper Wheels. $10 wow. I just ordered it.
-
Read the write-up on it.
For the money, to me it's worth getting to see if there are easier ways of doing things, confirming my own practices, getting some new ideas or picking up some more background information.
Even if you don't use that software, I reckon there will be $10 worth of ideas that can be applied to other programs.
Mine cost me $10.03 AUD with free postage to Australia... can't argue with that.
-
Yep Brum6y, great value. I haven't got Photoshop cs4 but I've got Photoshop Elements (compliments of one of our GR8 members) so hopefully I will pick up some tips. I'm having difficulty understanding some of the applications available in PS Elements so maybe the book will lead me to a better understanding.
-
Good move.
Also, since I'm getting the same book, if you have any questions that can be referred to a section of the book, give me the chapter and verse and I might be able to shed some light.
No promises. I'm self-taught, but I'll help where I can.... but if your learning skills are as good as you demonstrated on the 'How to be a contender for the Last Word' lesson I sent you, you will do well. (Still can't get over that - one lesson and first shot hits centre bull and scores a win)
-
$10.03! The exchange rate must have dropped! This same book is listed on eBay for over $40.
I still have it sitting in my shopping cart with a few other books so I better go and finish the purchase before it goes up again. I buy a lot from both their US and UK sites (same books listed but prices vary). Very good prices, good delivery times and well packaged. All books are sent individually, unless you buy multiples of the one book, so there really is no need for me to have waited to build up an order because the delivery is included in each price.
-
I just ordered it too. I have been using photoshop business edition because I knew how to use. Abode stopped that version 10 years ago now and does not work on vile vista or new 7 so an update is needed soon.
-
My book arrived today.
I'm still amazed at the price.
Simply packed into a pre-formed book mailer which has extended ends, so the mailer gets the corners bashed in - not the book. 3.5 / 4 corners were bashed in. Book was fine.
Only had a quick look, but if you're starting out with Photoshop CS4, I'd put it down as an essential. Lots of step-by-step instructions. Lots of examples.
I've even come across a couple of things I do in several steps (utilising my experience) that Photoshop can do in one (by a numpty).
Might start looking for Photoshop.... right after I find the funding.
-
Brum6y,
Sounds like you're happy with the book. ;D The price has since dropped to $9.90!
That site is great for bargains. I regularly troll through and look for books that are 50% - 80% off. Being in AU$ and including postage it's easy to keep track of spending whereas when I'm shopping on Amazon sometimes I forget until I'm at checkout that I've been adding up US$.
-
WHAT!!???
The price dropped..?!!!
* ripping hair out ...
stomping and screaming ...
dog is cowering ...
cat has disappeared ...
the other humans are -
are -
are .....
Huh?
13 cents?
Ohhhhhhh....... :)
-
Yeah Brum6y, mine arrived today. I can't work out how they can make a profit, $10 including post from the UK. The book itself is excellent.
-
Enough to make a bloke give up surfing.
[attachment deleted by admin]
-
Enough to make a bloke give up fishing.
[attachment deleted by admin]
-
after reading their lips....
[attachment deleted by admin]
-
Good one Brum6y. I wish I knew how to do that.
-
Here's a visualisation I made up from the image I prepared.....
It shows 4 'layers'. The bottom one has the original picture and each of the three layers above has one of the speech bubbles with text. You will see that these upper layers are pretty empty - each one only has a speech bubble, the rest is transparent.
One reason (a big one) as to why you use layers is that you can select just that layer to do stuff - such as moving things around, changing colours or any of a hundered things. I created the text bubble in one layer and added the text (which also had its own layer - but I merged or 'flattened' those two layers together for each speech bubble layer... so, at one stage I actually had 7 layers!)
Because the speech bubbles were in their own layer, I could move each of them anywhere around the picture. When I was happy with their placement, I then added the pointy bit which went to each of the figures in the boat.
Layers allow you to do much cleverer things than speech bubbles. Merging parts of other photos to produce your own composite is one you can have fun with. The good thing is, the complete image in each layer is still preserved, so you can shuffle things around and not have to worry about 'filling in' bits of your picture that were covered up before.
Be aware, though, not all image file types support layers. JPG/JPEG is one that doesn't - just the one image. It can be very easily created by 'flattening' a multi-layer image in a program like Photoshop - but you can never reverse the process.
[attachment deleted by admin]
-
(http://i498.photobucket.com/albums/rr342/wheels2spin/Kenny-1.jpg)
-
Photobucket ain't Photoshop.
Photobucket speech bubbles are Photobucket speech bubbles.
An understanding of layers is a basic step to a whole lot more than just speech bubbles...
You're the one, Wheels, that put several of us onto that Photoshop CS4 book - remember!!
-
I know, I know Brum6y. ;D
I used to spend all my working day working in photoshop. I just thought if anyone wants to add a speech bubble to a pic that they already have in photobucket then that is another alternative.
-
Oh, and I've just been browsing through my The Book Dep and there are some 2011 calendars already available, including Big Breasts and Big Penises!
:flash: :o
-
Oh, and I've just been browsing through my The Book Dep and there are some 2011 calendars already available, including Big Breasts and Big Penises!
:flash: :o
GR8 has both
-
:lol: :lol:
-
recorded ..... (lol) trust u master smee ...hehe
DOUBLE THE CHANCES!
-
:funaward:
-
No comment is my comment I also got my book on friday BARGAINNNNN.
On a seroius note, look at this photo set on flicker done with Raynox 150 and 250 lens.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/40328999@N02/4169436653/in/set-72157622719063271/ (http://www.flickr.com/photos/40328999@N02/4169436653/in/set-72157622719063271/)
Done with canon sx10 a camera selling from $500 new to $300 for good used units. The local camera club is ordering sets of the 150 and 250 with mount, brand new Raynox Canada warranty. Will be about $140 depending on exchange rate and post. PM me if interested Austrailan price $250.
-
Check out this idiot.
[attachment deleted by admin]
-
must be an idiot ..... fancy drinking Lipton Iced Tea instead of Pepsi Max !!!!
-
You spotted it Smee, good one.
-
No comment is my comment I also got my book on friday BARGAINNNNN.
On a seroius note, look at this photo set on flicker done with Raynox 150 and 250 lens.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/40328999@N02/4169436653/in/set-72157622719063271/ (http://www.flickr.com/photos/40328999@N02/4169436653/in/set-72157622719063271/)
Done with canon sx10 a camera selling from $500 new to $300 for good used units. The local camera club is ordering sets of the 150 and 250 with mount, brand new Raynox Canada warranty. Will be about $140 depending on exchange rate and post. PM me if interested Austrailan price $250.
amazing sharp and beautiful photo shyer, lovely work, must be a great lens and good eye of yours to spot and snap that one
-
Check out this idiot.
Self portrait of a hair follicle.
But if that lens can focus to that distance - I WANT ONE!
-
amazing sharp and beautiful photo shyer, lovely work, must be a great lens and good eye of yours to spot and snap that one
Not my photos wish some of them were, especailly considering the cost of the equipment total some $600 new 1/2 that Second hand.
Brumby you CAN focus that close with the Raynox macro lens, they are a tiny three piece lens . Not a cheap distorting (in high magnifications) close up filter.
-
PS touch here is link to photo set of stamps macro, to what I class as micro 30 times or more life size.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/11976328@N03/sets/72157601617898886/detail/ (http://www.flickr.com/photos/11976328@N03/sets/72157601617898886/detail/)
Here is link to new 100mm f 2.6 macro lens and with raynox 250 again lots of light needed all hand held a mono pod minimum is really needed at max magnification
http://www.flickr.com/photos/11957042@N05/4487770021/in/set-72157623639606783/ (http://www.flickr.com/photos/11957042@N05/4487770021/in/set-72157623639606783/)
-
Shyer. The macro photos at Reply #125 are brilliant.
I'm getting better with Photoshop Elements 5 (thanks Gr8). When I get the chance I'll post a couple for you people to critique, it's the best way to learn.
In the meantime have a gander at this one. I cleaned up some mud from the flower using Photoshop.
I had to downgrade it's quality so it would appear.
The photo is crowded but I wanted the flower to feature.
[attachment deleted by admin]
-
I'm trying to download the original photo (560kb's) but the message I get is, "Uploader is full, contact administrator" What does that mean?
-
How's this one? The original with a lot more Megabites looks very clear
[attachment deleted by admin]
-
Hi Ubbie,
Both photos are technically very good and a good example of what high quality photos, cheapish digital cameras can achieve. With good focus , modes and exposure.
The first photo is interesting as it shows the bottom petal dying and about to drop. For a text book more centralised and cropped maybe. But for composition is nice to be off center. My personal choice would be to blur the back ground a bit more, to concentrate the viewers eye on the subject.
The second photo I like a lot two points of interest and a good natural background.
Look at this and droll like me. I think about a $4000 camera, flash and lens set but still basically hand held and in difficult field conditions.
http://www.dailymail.co.uk/sciencetech/article-1260946/The-stunning-pictures-sleeping-insects-covered-early-morning-dew.html (http://www.dailymail.co.uk/sciencetech/article-1260946/The-stunning-pictures-sleeping-insects-covered-early-morning-dew.html)
-
Shyer, they are sensational....
-
Shyer. I've been doing more Photoshop experiments. It's got so much stuff I get lost.
I sort of worked out how to put a coloured foreground on a greyscale background. I had to soften this background as it is pretty crouded but I'll work it out, I hope.
I'm also having trouble scaling photos for printing, I better read the instructions.
[attachment deleted by admin]
-
Another suggestion to tone back a busy background....
Select the background then reduce contrast and brightness. Reducing contrast alone will just turn the background into a faded mish-mash and just reducing the brightness alone will mean the darker areas will fall below black level and you will lose all detail there. By doing both, you darken the background detail without losing it - which makes the result look more natural.
This is just a quick effort on my part to give you an idea, but you can take it to whatever degree suits you...
[attachment deleted by admin]
-
Look at this and droll like me. I think about a $4000 camera, flash and lens set but still basically hand held and in difficult field conditions.
http://www.dailymail.co.uk/sciencetech/article-1260946/The-stunning-pictures-sleeping-insects-covered-early-morning-dew.html (http://www.dailymail.co.uk/sciencetech/article-1260946/The-stunning-pictures-sleeping-insects-covered-early-morning-dew.html)
Photographers are a varied bunch... Some of the most interesting shots come from innovative and unusual approaches.
These are quite fascinating.
-
That looks much better Brum6y. I'll work out how to do it. Photoshop takes for granted that people like me understand terminology. I don't understand so it takes trial & error before I work it out.
-
Part of experience is knowing
1. What you want to do
2. What technical treatments will achieve that
3. Finding out how to do those in whatever software you have
and
4. Playing around to find the settings that give you 'What you want to do'.
I have given you one of several ideas of what can be done and the technical processes that I used to achieve it. That is just a head start.
If I knew more about Photoshop, I could throw some better directions your way - but I don't. Anyway, you'll likely learn a few things as you go as you pick your way through it all.
-
I still can't work out how to darken the background (I will) but I did this to it. For some wierd reason it is 100 inches x 80 inches (not mms) & when I reduce the size it gets all blury. So I emailed it to myself to reduce the size.
[attachment deleted by admin]
-
If that was an original photo - it would be a classic (and extreme) example of 'barrel distortion' - where the sides curve out, like a barrel.
Where the sides curve in, it's called pincushion distortion.
Mathematically they are treated basically the same - just the curve being in or out. You would normally use these tools to correct those distortions on photos to get straight and square sides.
Barrel distortion is most often seen when you are close to a subject and using a (comparative) wide angle lens, such as a close-up photograph of a book and not using any zoom.
-
brumby what tool can i use with photoshop elements or photoshop normal for parrelax (sic) error please? i need this for large maps and books, atlases etc. thanks matey you are so clever OR external process after the jpeg or p/shop raw file is complete is fine too
-
Try this.
Select the 'lasso' tool to trace around the flower. The 'magnetic lasso' tool does the same sort of thing, but is clever and will try to follow image differences (it has some settings you can play with to help it do this more accurately).
Just click to start at a point on your photo and then trace around it. When you're finished (right around and back to where you started) double-click and the 'lasso' loop will be closed and the part of the image inside the lasso will be selected.
Any changes to the image such as brightness, contrast, hue, saturation and so on - will only affect the selected area.
To swap this selection around so that everything outside the lasso is selected - click on 'Select' then 'Inverse'.
Then try this ... Select 'Image' => 'Adjustments' => 'Brightness/Contrast' and have a fiddle.....
Oh... my apologies, this was checked out on Photoshop Portable - not Elements. Not sure what features Elements has...
-
brumby what tool can i use with photoshop elements or photoshop normal for parrelax (sic) error please? i need this for large maps and books, atlases etc. thanks matey you are so clever OR external process after the jpeg or p/shop raw file is complete is fine too
Ah - the old 'Perspective' distortion problem. This is a fun one.
Software like Photostudio and Photoshop have perspective distortion correction functions that work well if you only have distortion in ONE axis. That is, if you are standing directly in front of a building at ground level and the building narrows towards the top because of perspective.
Where it becomes awkward with these packages is when you have perspective distortion in TWO axes. The only package I have come across that can handle this in one operation is PaintShop Photo Pro and it does it quickly, easily and pretty well. There may be others, but I'm not up on a lot of imaging software.
-
ok thanks brumby, i can get that one, also i can see if my software that came bundled with the scanner I have does it too, it is called photostudio and is canon's own software, not as easy to use as elements but has some advanced tools i have yet to learn, i also want to learn to splice two scans and scan large maps etc/images in two or more sections and combine
-
I have an old version of Photostudio (v5) which came with my Canon camera.
It's what I have been using as my standard for years... so unless you have a new version with extra bits, I can answer a lot of questions about it!
Version 5 only has single axis perspective correction.
-
Joining multiple images is called 'stitching' in Canon's software. I've done it with multiple camera shots, but haven't looked at doing it with scans.
Also, I've only done it with panoramic shots - where photos are 'stitched' together in one horizontal sequence. Not sure about stitching together a matrix of shots across and down.
Computationally, there is no reason why it can't be done - but I have no experience in software products on this.
Maybe Liisa would know...
-
I use Corel Draw!,
I have found that software suite the most productive and easier to get used to then any other.
You can do some very complex tasks with it once you master the art of talking to it :)
For perspective distortion it has a number of tools
There is also a 'wire mesh' distortion tool
What that does is, the picture gets overlaid with squares or rectangles, you can choose the frequency of those and then there are 'handles' at each corner of those which you use to adjust that corner anywhere on the picture.
I'll do an example and post it later :)
-
You can do some very complex tasks with it once you master the art of talking to it :)
That's always fun - for any software...
For perspective distortion it has a number of tools
There is also a 'wire mesh' distortion tool
What that does is, the picture gets overlaid with squares or rectangles, you can choose the frequency of those and then there are 'handles' at each corner of those which you use to adjust that corner anywhere on the picture.
I'll do an example and post it later :)
The 'wire mesh' tool sounds very interesting - for those situations where even two axis perspective adjustment isn't enough!
-
THANKS GUYS, I LOVE CANON GEAR AND THEIR SOFTWARE, SORRY CAPS ON NOT SHOUTING , fixed. i will explore more, i am sure there is a lot more it can do as you say, i have this great scanner an 8800f is the model but thats about two years old, their high end products are amazing and the printers too, its incredible what you can do from the desktop now
-
Original
(http://i673.photobucket.com/albums/vv95/ozrt/original.jpg)
Distorted
(http://i673.photobucket.com/albums/vv95/ozrt/distorted.jpg)
You can manipulate the distortion in any direction and to any degree
-
Looks like the work of some of the builders around my area Poddy... LOL
-
Salvadore Dali move over hahahaha
-
OK Podster ... here's a challenge - can you create the UNdistorted image from the distorted one?
-
The PaintShop Photo Pro software can do the following transform in ONE step.
[attachment deleted by admin]
-
Once straightened, it is an easy exercise to resize to a different aspect ratio if you need to.
The PSP Pro software has an auto crop feature too, but I turned it off for this example, since it would have chopped off the top of the building...
-
Are 2 steps ok ? ;D
(http://i673.photobucket.com/albums/vv95/ozrt/PerspectiveFixB-1.jpg)
-
I've just installed Paintshop Pro 7 & I haven't got a clue how to use it. I whacked the fly phot o on the screen & no matter what tool or button I pushed nothing happened.
A mate gave me the program.
I thought it could compliment Photoshop Elements 5.
I might buy Photoshop Elements 8 in the near future. I can't justify spending hundreds of dollars on Photoshop CS4 when I'm battling to work out PS Elements.
-
I have a trial version of PaintShop Photo Pro X3 (Free to download for 30 days trial).
It has an image viewer active when it opens up - so no editing will be available.
I have a row of thumbnails across the bottom. When you left click on one, the full image will be put up on the viewer but if you right click and select 'Open' it will go into edit mode. Same for the menus up the top... 'File' => 'Open' => browse to your image and select.
If you've done that and it doesn't work, then I'm not sure what's going on - and I don't have that version to check.
-
I'm off to a camera club tonight. I don't know what to expect but I hope I learn something.
The President of the club rang me up the other day & invited me along. I don't know him but, apparently he knows of me.
I'm going to miss out on the Fly tying group meeting tonight, pity, I enjoy it.
-
This a photo of a 6 pound Trout I caught a few years ago.
Like all fisho yarns the size of the Trout has got bigger over the years. Look at the photo in the next post
[attachment deleted by admin]
-
The photo is a bit rough but it was a cheap camera I had in those days, that's my story anyway.
The trout is now a 20 pounder.
[attachment deleted by admin]
-
Isn't is amazing...!
The other thing I'm in absolute awe about is that you managed to find the same area of gravel and rocks with everything in the same places, except that rock near the tail - but even then, the bit that's still there is in exactly the same spot! How absolutely incredible...!!!
Then there is the fish itself - with the very same markings (must be a genetic thing or evidence of a cloning lab somewhere).
* yeah right *
Hint: Never show these two images side by side around any anglers......
Not a bad effort, though!
-
i've heard old anglers talk about those fish that keep growing after you catch them ... amazing ubie!
-
I'm off to a camera club tonight. I don't know what to expect but I hope I learn something.
The President of the club rang me up the other day & invited me along. I don't know him but, apparently he knows of me.
I'm going to miss out on the Fly tying group meeting tonight, pity, I enjoy it.
For someone as keen to learn as you, Ubb, you could find yourself becoming quite interested. Let us know how it goes...
-
there is something fishy about those photos !
-
Shhhh.. Smee.
(You're not supposed to notice.)
-
oh ok so I am supposed to think they are to scale
-
i think thet fush drank too much pepsi, uts ges
-
I'm just back from the Camera Club meeting. They had photos (taken by mrembers) on display which were judged & critiqued by a judge. The photos were excellent. I found it a very informative night with regard to photo composition, light, etc.
Most of the photos were A4 size. Many were black & white.
I think I will join as they have workshops as well as judged displays.
Incidently Gr8, I like cold chips.
-
I found it a very informative night with regard to photo composition, light, etc.
Ubbie light and composition are the essence of photography no amount of computer edits can repair if those are really wrong. I only do basic computer edits more than that I find a waste of time.
The fish and its child both caught the same time, looking at light and background you should have released one of them!
The distorted flower is now a very interesting photo. Humans see curves as straight and straights as curves, distortion is our viewpoint.
-
I found it a very informative night with regard to photo composition, light, etc.
Ubbie light and composition are the essence of photography no amount of computer edits can repair if those are really wrong. I only do basic computer edits more than that I find a waste of time.
That is so very true.
It always pays to get the initial shot as close to ideal as possible. As a rule, the more post-production work you do on an image, the worse it will get.
-
I took the plunge & bought a Photoshop Elements 5 instructional book. I priced Amazon but found the website suggested by Wheels at post 101 (The Book Depositry) was considerably cheaper for the same book. I got Photoshop CS4 by Scott Kelby, which is very well written & illustrated (pictures), from this website. The Elements 5 book is by the same author.
Hopefully I will know what I'm doing with PS Elements when the book arrives.
-
Check out this site. http://www.abebooks.co.uk/ I just bought The Complete Idiot's Guide to Paint Shop Pro 7. It's described "used very good condition" & at just under A$10, including post, I don't care what condition it's in as long as it's readable.
I have worked out that I can do things to photos with Paint Shop Pro & after saving the altered photo to my photographs folder & can then open the same changed photo in Photoshop Elements & do other things to it, what a ripper, there's no stopping me, I've just got to learn how to take good photgraphs now.
-
you're really getting into the programs ub well done, I am sure there are tons of hidden secrets there and you know what they say? when all else fails read the manuals
-
I'm into everything Gr8. I'm now going to learn how to cut my own Mat boards to put photos in. I can buy the cutter setup for around $125 for a basic one to several hundred for the top range one.
Matboards are the coloured cardboard borders we see around paintings & photos that have been framed.
-
My how time changes people.....
I'm sure that Ubb, in his past life, would have avoided any and all circumstances for someone to have claimed "He framed me!"
Now he's going out to buy the gear to frame as many people and other things as he can!
-
Shyer, Brum6y, Poddy, Gr8 & any one else who might know.
My digital camera has a whole bunch of picture sizes called aspect ratios.
They are 16.9, 4.3 & 3.2. These then have different sub settings such as 12M (4000 x 3000 pixels) down to 0.3M (640 x 480 pixels).
I've worked out (I think) that 3,2 at 4000 x 2672 pixels is the one that is closest to photo paper size 210 x 297 mm (A4). I have figured that using this setting requires less cropping when printing onto A4 photo paper.
My question is, am I on the right track using this setting(3.2) or will the finished picture be of less quality than a picture taken using 16.9 at 4000 x 2248 pixels or 4.3 at 4000 x 3000 pixels?
The book, 218 pages of tech stuff, doesn't explain or suggest anything.
-
possibly but it depends on a number of other variables
-
Ah Smee, such wisdom. I'm much wiser now.
-
I thought that simple explaination might clarify the situation Birdie .... now someone will come and complicate the issue by talking sense
-
Aspect ratios are just the realtive lengths of the sides
3:2 is the ratio for old 35mm film. The image was 36mm by 24mm, giving the ratio of 3:2
4:3 is the common ratio for old style TV and monitors.
16:9 is the ratio for high definiton TV and many widescreen monitors.
A piece of A4 paper has sides of 1:1.414 (the square root of 2, to be precise) This is close to the 3:2 ratio (2.828:2)
What this means is, if you print the full image, a 3:2 image will fit pretty neatly on an A4 sheet with just a slight whitespace next to the long sides, a 4:3 image will have a larger whitespace and the 16:9 will have an even bigger white space there.
If you change the aspect ratio to fill a page, you will end up stretching your image one way or the other - which will make (for example) people either look tall and thin or short and fat.
Resolution is another thing ...(coming next instalment)
-
see I told ya !!!
-
Ripper Brum6y, thanks. I'll change my camera's aspect ratio to 3.2.
I'm looking forward to the next instalment.
-
Yep Smee, you are very wise.
-
Before you rush off with that idea .... consider this.
Most cameras are built with 4:3 ratio sensors - including yours. The maximum 3,000 pixels on the shorter side shows this.
If you set up to shoot only in 3:2 ratio, you will be ignoring a strip of 4000 x 328 pixels of image that is available to you. Since the only overhead is storage space (and with memory cards so cheap and your new PC is likely to have TB range disk space) the only reason to not shoot in that aspect ratio is to avoid cropping issues. That is, to make sure you don't take a shot that won't suit the aspect ratio you need in the final image.
For example, if you were taking a series of still shots to be included in a widescreen presentation or video clip, you might want to shoot in 16:9 so that you can see the actual 'pre-cropped' image (as it were) when you take the shot. That way, you know you will have a full-screen image containing everything you want.
If you do a lot of printing to A4 and want to minimise the work in preparing an image for print - the setting to 3:2 would be helpful - but, personally, I'd be sticking to the maximum my camera could capture unless I had specific reasons to do otherwise.
The other option you might consider, if you are getting serious about image printing on a larger scale, is to get an A3 printer. That will give you twice the area for printing.
If you want to get very particular on colour accuracy, then there are printers that use 8 different coloured ink tanks. The extra colours are to more directly produce hues that are approximated by mixing of the other colours. Particularly notable are the 'light' versions of colours like 'magenta' - these allow a larger droplet of ink to give better coverage and evenness, but still presenting a 'light' shade, such as you might find in a pale skin tone.
As you will no doubt already appreciate, the quality of the paper you print on makes a HUGE difference. Good quality Photo Paper isn't particularly cheap (so you try not to waste too much) but the results are terrific.
-
Be warned, though. Image printing uses a LOT of ink and an A3 printer is going to use more - simply because the pictures are bigger. Also, you can expect to find them at around the $1,000 mark (Though it's been a while since I checked out prices, so it would be worth checking out.)
-
Good advise Brum6y, thanks. I'll change my setting to 4:3.
I'm looking forward to the next installment.
-
All these examples do NOT imply that petrol is cheap; it just illustrates how outrageous some prices are.
The last one might shock the socks off you.
Think a litre of petrol is expensive?
This makes you think, and also puts things into perspective.
Can of Red Bull, 250ml, $2..95 ... $11.80 per litre!
Robitussin Cough Mixture, 200ml, $9.95 ..... $ 49.75 per litre!
L'Oreal Revitalift Day Cream, 50ml, $29.95 .......... $599.00 per litre!
Bundy Rum, 1250ml, $51.00 .... $40.80 per litre!
Visene Eye Drops, 15ml, $5.69 ... $379.00 per litre!
Britney Spears Fantasy Perfume, 50ml, $29 ....... $580.00 per litre!
And this is the REAL KICKER.
Evian water, 375ml, $2.95 ...$7.86 per litre!
$7.86 for a litre of WATER!!
and the buyers don't even know the source
(Evian spelled backwards is NAIVE!!)
Ever wonder why computer printers are so cheap?
So they can hook you for the ink!!
Someone calculated the cost of the ink at, you won't believe it but it's true; $1,040 a litre.
$1040.00 A LITRE!!!
So, the next time you're at the pump, be glad your car doesn't run on water, Red Bull, Robitussin, L'Oreal or, God forbid, Printer Ink!!!!!
-
All these examples do NOT imply that petrol is cheap; it just illustrates how outrageous some prices are.
The last one might shock the socks off you.
Think a litre of petrol is expensive?
This makes you think, and also puts things into perspective.
Can of Red Bull, 250ml, $2..95 ... $11.80 per litre!
Robitussin Cough Mixture, 200ml, $9.95 ..... $ 49.75 per litre!
L'Oreal Revitalift Day Cream, 50ml, $29.95 .......... $599.00 per litre!
Bundy Rum, 1250ml, $51.00 .... $40.80 per litre!
Visene Eye Drops, 15ml, $5.69 ... $379.00 per litre!
Britney Spears Fantasy Perfume, 50ml, $29 ....... $580.00 per litre!
And this is the REAL KICKER.
Evian water, 375ml, $2.95 ...$7.86 per litre!
$7.86 for a litre of WATER!!
and the buyers don't even know the source
(Evian spelled backwards is NAIVE!!)
Ever wonder why computer printers are so cheap?
So they can hook you for the ink!!
Someone calculated the cost of the ink at, you won't believe it but it's true; $1,040 a litre.
$1040.00 A LITRE!!!
So, the next time you're at the pump, be glad your car doesn't run on water, Red Bull, Robitussin, L'Oreal or, God forbid, Printer Ink!!!!!
That is so amazing Shyer ! ... I think Ubb's would be very interested the true value of Pepsi max...LOL
-
Yeah Yib, I just worked it out.
If I buy a 375ml can at a shop for $1.80 it equates to $4.79 a litre but if I buy a carton of the beloved stuff it works out at 52 cents a can which equates to $1.38 a litre.
There is a message there, Pepsi max is a cheap healthly beverage & is comparable with petrol costs at the bowser on weekends & is much cheaper than plonk & perfume (perfume tastes shocking anyway).
So there ya go, how about that!
-
ok so logically then ..... when I fuel up the car I should ask for a carton of pertrol !
-
Yep, that's the go Smee. Your car will run beautifully too.
-
I was telephonicaly dialoging with the Sister in Law this morning & it occured to me that her husband is a Graphic Designer. We discussed that & it turns out he uses Photoshop all the time & knows all the tricks.
I'm going to ask him to give me a lesson or two on Photoshop especially layers which has got me confused.
-
Ubbie, think of a layer as being a transparent film over the original picture so that what ever you do on that layer is seperate from the original.
You can have many layers one on top of the other and that gives the finished product.
In Corel, and I expect the same all graphics applications, you can fuse all the layers into one and that is the finished product
-
Remember this ? (see below)
It is my rough depiction of some layers I used (four in this example) for the image you will recognise. The resultant image is viewed by looking straight down from a position above the top cell.
Each layer is an image that can be independently manipulated, moved, etc. and will usually have transparent areas, so that parts of the layers underneath can be seen. (In this example, the top 3 layers are almost completely transparent. Only the speech bubbles are not.)
If you think about the early days of cartoon animators, they have been doing the same thing with clear plastic 'cells' that they draw a character on and then place over the background to photograph the frame.
Layers work just like multiple cells stacked on top of each other.
Once you get the hang of it - you WON'T be able to work without them!!!
[attachment deleted by admin]
-
As a reminder - here is how it looked finished.
[attachment deleted by admin]
-
You know were going to expect personal portraits of us when you good at it Ubb's ....
-
It shall be done Yib. I've just gotta get better first.
-
I think I just made a mistake. I completed a Buy Now for ADOBE PHOTOSHOP ELEMENTS 8 EDU VERSION WIN 7, XP, VISTA & have since noticed that it is the educational version for students.
Does anyone know if it will still work for me? I'm not a student.
-
I think I just made a mistake. I completed a Buy Now for ADOBE PHOTOSHOP ELEMENTS 8 EDU VERSION WIN 7, XP, VISTA & have since noticed that it is the educational version for students.
Does anyone know if it will still work for me? I'm not a student.
No idea Ubb's...I'm sure Poddy or Brumby will know for sure...
-
I contacted the seller & he very kindly cancelled the sale & my payment has been refunded. Very quick service from an obviously fair & reasonable person.
I completed a a request to cancel the transaction for him so he can get his fees back.
-
The student or 'academic' version is exactly the same full-function product as the one you pay full price for.
The only difference is the price - and to get that price, you are supposed to provide evidence of your academic standing. For students, a current student ID card is all that is necessary, but teachers, lecturers, etc. can also get it at the cheaper price.
Without that evidence, authentic resellers will refuse to sell it to you. (or they certainly should!)
-
I just bought a Bevel Master BM-347 Picture Framing Mat Cutter. Got it at a real good price.
I haven't got a clue how to work it but I'll practice & learn.
I'll be able to put borders around my photos.
Another reason I got one is because, I didn't have one, now I have, ripper .
-
Another reason I got one is because, I didn't have one, now I have, ripper .
Just call me jealous.
-
I made a couple of Mat frames for A4 size photos.
I made a couple of mistakes with the first one but the second one worked is good. The measuring must be accurate.
Mistake 1, A 210mm wide photo framed with a 50mm border should have a 310 outer width not 260mm.
Mistake 2, draw the lines on the back of the mat board not the front.
The second effort worked out fine.
Now all I have to do is take photos that will do the mat frames justice, easier said than done.
-
Yippee. I just picked up a Photo Studio Light Tent from Ebay. Ripper.
The Commander In Chief is just shaking her head in stunned disbelief.
She asked me why I wasn't as enthusiastic about helping with the housework. The obvious answer is that it bores me senseless but I didn't say it.
-
good effort on the frames ub and very wise to avoid the cic's question re housework lol
-
i am getting one of those light tents for sure one day soon, they look to be very useful and not expensive either
-
Can ants take up residence in the tents ?
-
Interesting camera.
http://www.photographyblog.com/reviews/fujifilm_finepix_hs10_review/conclusion/ (http://www.photographyblog.com/reviews/fujifilm_finepix_hs10_review/conclusion/)
30 times optical zoom CMOS sensor, hotshoe, manual controls, Raw and 55mm filter thread
-
looks like a beauty shyer, thanks
-
A quick question for all you Melbournians.
Does anyone know if this establishment exists?
Techrific Australia
A.B.N. : 92 664 723 045
Postal Address :
2711A / 100 Harbour Esplanade
Docklands
VIC 3008
Australia
I can't find any phone numbers.
They have a camera listed on their web site http://www.techrific.com.au/ that looks pretty good but without contacting them I'm reluctant to fork over any dough.
The camera is a Canon EOS 550D Digital SLR Camera TWIN LENS KIT 18-55mm & 55-250mm & is listed for AU$1,389.00
-
Birdie .... they crack a mention in this forum ....interesting reading
http://forums.whirlpool.net.au/forum-replies-archive.cfm/1044263.html
-
Thanks Smee. I just read the posts on that forum.
It looks like a good place to avoid. I think I should look elsewhere.
-
Smee & everyone else who is interested. I enquired further & contact Techrific Australia regarding the camera (Canon EOS 550D Digital SLR Camera TWIN LENS KIT 18-55mm & 55-250mm). They drop ship from Asia. There is no Australian Canon warranty.
I contacted Ted's Camera's here in Aust & although they couldn't match Techrific Australia's price, they dropped a couple of hundred of their price, so I bought one from them, ripper.
My next buy might be a top range Hasselblad for around $20,000 (only kidding). The CIC would have to buy it for me though. I better be nice. I even cleaned up the kitchen bench after my lunch today. I shoved everything in the sink.
On a serious note, I want to buy a Macro lense for the new camera in due course. Does anyone have any recommendations?
-
I realise she is certainly NOT your mother, however as that day approaches we must put on our thinking caps! many women would appreciate a carry handle or something else from the range of accessories!
http://www.thecountryshed.com/50_cal.htm (http://www.thecountryshed.com/50_cal.htm)
-
Excellent suggestion Golden. I should buy one.
-
I am trying to buy a kit, with lens at $800 in one shipment and body in other$130 dearer.
http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/183199-GREY/Canon_2540A002_Macro_Photo_MP_E_65mm.html (http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/183199-GREY/Canon_2540A002_Macro_Photo_MP_E_65mm.html)
Seriously I would use 55-200 with kit of raynox 150 and 250 till you find your wishes. Can sell Raynox later if no longer used. Ebay seems cheapest at moment
-
I just looked at that lense Shyer. I'd hope to get one like it cheaper than that down the track. I like doing macro photography of small critter & things. The Panasonic I've got does a good job.
Do Raynox lenses fit Canon caneras?
-
I just looked at that lense Shyer. Do Raynox lenses fit Canon caneras?
That is an EXTREME macro lens, a pro lens. All other macros under $200 stop at 1 to to 1 that one starts at 1 to1 and goes myto 5 times life size.
Raynox fits lens not bodies as long as 55-200 lens filter thread is under 65mm it will fit and sweet spot will be about 100mm in zoom range.
-
Check this information out (suppied by Ted's Cameras). Techrific is at times drop shipper.
TEDS CAMERAS GREY IMPORT
Our products comply with Australian standards
Items may not meet mandatory safety and certification codes, or may not have been handled properly, therefore they may malfunction.
Full technical service is provided at your local Teds Camera Store or authorised service centre.
During the warranty period, any servicing or repairs will be free of charge, provided the camera was bought in the same country as where it was purchased from. (Damage caused by owner's negligence, accident, misuse, do-it-yourself repairs, sand or water is not covered by this warranty).
May not be able to receive full technical support as the warranty is valid only in the country where the camera was purchased from.
Certain dealers selling grey items may not be able to provide technical support as well.
You will also have to pay to have your camera serviced if it was bought from another country.
The manual in the package will be in English.
The manual may not be in the preferred language of your region.
The manual is often a photocopy of the original manual.
Users are able to register their product online to download software and firmware upgrades.
Owners of grey items may not be able to download online software and firmware upgrades available from the manufacturers site, due to incompatible serial numbers.
The software CD included in the package will be an INT (International) version.
Software upgrade is easier if the initial software installation was an INT (International) version.
The software CD included in the package may not be an INT (International) version and as a result, there may be problems involved when wanting to upgrade the software.
The warranty card doesn't state "Australian Warranty Card"
-
I just got my new camera, it's a ripper.
I'm charging the battery at this time & then I bash of a few shots.
I guess I better read the instruction book inthe meantime.
I now have to buy a flash, a camera bag & a macro lense F1.8 or F2.8.
-
Let me know if you have any 'cast-offs', Ubb. I'm not too far away (I think) for a drive....
.... and reading the instruction book is an excellent idea. You won't remember everything, but if you get into a tricky situation, you might recollect seeing something about it in the book.
-
Yeah Brum6y. I'm not far down the road from you as the crow flies, I think.
I have taken some photos using the automatic function & the camera does a brilliant job.
The Canon software for this model has a program for Raw in Windows 7 64 bit. so my problem (posted on the computer thread) appears solved.
There is a heap to learn as it has a lot of functions my Panasonic doesn't have.
I took one photo (jpeg) of a weed & after downloading it I blew it right up. The camera picked up what looks like dust in the air, either that or spots on the lense.
-
I have a question for all the camera people.
There is a sloping mirror just behind where the lense screws on in these digital cameras.
Can the lense be cleaned with a soft cloth or will it risk harming it?
-
tip pepsi in there
-
Good idea Smee, now why didn't I think of that!
-
As tempting as using Pepsi Max might be....
The sloping mirror is common to all SLR (Single Lens Reflex) cameras. It ensures the image you are viewing is exactly what the film/sensor will get, since it uses the same lens. With film cameras - this was the only way to get exactly the shot the photographer saw - no parallax error and no approximations for zoom lenses.
Also, by using an optical path for your viewfinder, there is no power needed for you to see the subject. As well, the main image sensor is protected until the shot is taken, when the mirror flips up out of the way for that instant and then drops back down.
The mirror only serves to reflect an image to the viewfinder, so any dust or other contamination will not affect the image captured. HOWEVER, it is precisely positioned so that the viewfinder screen is exactly the same distance from the lens as the digital sensor - so when you focus in the viewfinder, the captured image is also in focus. Contamination on the mirror may affect the ability to focus.
As for cleaning it - Step 1 - Read the Manual! It should be done with great care - at least that's how I approach it. It is mounted on a relatively lightweight mechanism, so that it can move quickly and any excessive pressure could affect its position or movement. If unsure, I might suggest you pop into a reputable photographic store when you have some spare time and run through a couple of these questions with someone who knows what they are talking about. If you have questions, you can always raise them here.
By far the better way is to PREVENT contamination from getting into that area in the first place. These are some practices I follow:
1. Keep a lens ON the camera. This not only protects the mirror (and sensor!) from contamination getting in, but also means you can just pick up the camera and shoot, if your opportunity for a shot is short.
2. When storing lenses, keep a lens cap on the front AND rear of each lens to protect both pieces of exposed glass from contamination. This will also reduce the dust introduced into the body when a lens is fitted.
3. If you have to remove the lens from your camera for any length of time (and I'm talking minutes and upwards) fit a body cap to the camera body (like a lens cap - but covering the hole where the lens is mounted) to keep out contamination.
4. When changing lenses,
(a) make sure (if at all possible) you are not in a place where dust, water or other contaminants are prevalent. If you can't help it, try and be as protective as possible.
(b) Before removing any rear lens caps or body caps, giving a quick once over with a blower brush will never go astray.
(c) Between the time the first lens is removed and the second lens fitted, lay the camera body face down on a dust-free, lint-free surface. (If it's going to be exposed for any length of time, fit your body cap. Dust floats down more than up - but a wayward grain of sand (or a precision bombing seagull) will be a problem if it finds a target inside the camera body. The risk of this is very small - but a simple change in orientation makes it infinitesimal.
One last thing, while we are talking about protecting lenses and such ... for any camera that can take filters, go get yourself something like a Skylight 1a filter and keep it permanently on your lens. Its effect is very subtle, but improves skies and clouds just that little... It hardly makes any difference to exposure and you can confidently ignore the fact that it's even there - BUT - If you get a scratch ... it's much better that it is on a relatively cheap filter (which you could remove and keep shooting) than on your more expensive lens! Also, cleaning a filter is easier than cleaning a lens!
-
I have a question for all the camera people.There is a sloping mirror just behind where the lense screws on in these digital cameras.Can the lense be cleaned with a soft cloth or will it risk harming it?
Well it is a little like the mirror in a car, on the passengers sunvisor , there to tidy your hair or adjust your warpaint.
Got you.
Yes it can be cleaned, a blower brush the best with camera upside down ie lens face downwards. The mirror has no effect on photo . The mirror is so photograher through viewfinder "SEES" what camera sees. When shutter us pressed the mirror moves up and lens light falls on sensor / film
-
Shyer is right for the most common cleaning job on the mirror... my comments come from one experience I had where a water droplet had found its way onto the mirror - the resultant contamination required a more physical contact than a blower-brush.
Notice, too, the 'face downwards' orientation mentioned.... It's better for things to fall OUT than to fall IN!
-
Thanks Brum6y & Shyer. Very informative advise. I didn't know a lot of that. I certainly didn't know that the mirror only reflects the image so I can see what I'm looking at. I will leave the mirror alone, and everything else.
I will be practicing taking photos in RAW tomorrow. Canon supplies a program that lets me download pictures in RAW format on a Windows 7 64 bit system to their programme, Digital Photo Professional. I can't download RAW straight to Photoshop though.
I have been downloading to Fastone Image Viewer. saving as a TIFF file then transferring to Photoshop.
I wish I could download RAW photos direct to Photoshop it would save a bit of hassle.
-
If you make sure you have front and back lens caps for all your lenses, a body cap and a blower brush, you're pretty well set.
Oh, having a pack of lens cleaning tissue on hand is good. Any half-decent camera store should have this.
-
Yep Brum6y, I've got all that stuff.
I will Google Skylight 1a though, I haven't heard of that sort of filter. I normaly use plain old UV filters or a polarizing filter if I'm trying tp photograph something in the water.
Maybe Ebay has Skylight 1a listed.
Down the track I want to buy a reasonable Macro lense, I like photographing little critters & other small stuff.
-
I will be practicing taking photos in the RAW
I trust it wont be tooooooooooooo cold in NSW tomorrow
-
Yep Brum6y, I've got all that stuff.
I will Google Skylight 1a though, I haven't heard of that sort of filter. I normaly use plain old UV filters or a polarizing filter if I'm trying tp photograph something in the water.
Maybe Ebay has Skylight 1a listed.
Down the track I want to buy a reasonable Macro lense, I like photographing little critters & other small stuff.
UV filters are good, too. If you've got them, don't worry about the Skylight ... unless you want to start getting into filter effects...
-
She'll be right Smee. I'll wear big fluffy slippers. The CIC will never know, she works tomorrow, ripper!
-
I are a genious.
I took some photos of one of the archers shooting a recurve bow this afternoon. I took some in JPEG & some in Raw.
When I got home I downloaded the photos into the Canon "Digital Photo Professional program" supplied by Canon. After some fiddling I Was able to save them as TIFF files & keep all the megapixels. I was then able to go to Photoshop elements & upload the TIFF photos.
Using Photoshop I was able to improvements.
And they say it can't be done on a Windows 7 64 bit setup.
-
My latest Macro attempt. Freehand picture of little bee thing. Could be less blury but I took it freehand & should have used a tripod.
I have changed it to JPG. The original photo is in RAW & looks better.
[attachment deleted by admin]
-
Pretty good effort Ubb:)
If you keep the appature small you can get a better depth of field but to do that you need lots of light.
If you have an outrigger flash that works too if you set things up manually :)
-
Yep Poddy. Afterwards I realised I should have used a higher depth of field. The lense (55-250 with macro filter) was about 3 or 4 inches from the critter & I focused by moving the camera back & forward.
These critters are not very obliging, they don't hang around for a second shot.
-
.....These critters are not very obliging, they don't hang around for a second shot.
Hi Ubbie getting there fast. Poddy is right flash is the way to go, both to "freeze" body shake and to allow f16/32 for depth of field. The inbuilt camera flashes are useless for maco. There are cheap canon compatiable flashes around, sb600 power and size that are still on camera with hotshoe. Not $600 canon unit but $100 / 300 or so different name. I use them with a cloth diffuser when out of studio.
The $300 units are as good as canon / nikon / ect. brand in my experience. When in field sooner or later you will drop. lose, get stolen or get wet gear. Fact of life.
The $100 units tend to last the warranty or 1000 flashes which ever comes first. They do not like heat or multible flashes a few seconds apart.
Thus you control light quatity direction (multi) and light colour. I also use raynox macro filter (keeps me 150 / 300mm away from subject) thus focus not as effected by distance. .A monopod easy to angle move back and forward takes most of weight and reduces body shake by up to 80%.
Another thing is flash temporaily Blinds most living things even in full daylight . A spotlight type effect. Often creates time for follow up shots closer or different angles. Ebay best place to compare prices / features of hardware mentioned.
-
There are lots of things flash photography can deliver and there are some other considerations - but the best advice I can give is just try things out and see what works. Any particular problems and you can throw a question up here. (I think Shyer might be answering more on flash questions ... I've got the theory, but little recent practice.)
Another thing is flash temporaily Blinds most living things even in full daylight . A spotlight type effect. Often creates time for follow up shots closer or different angles.
Something I learned the easy way (and put my camera back in the car)......
Just don't try doing this around the fairy penguins. Flash at dusk to evening is quite intense and will blind these little guys - and because they ARE little, people will try and get close-ups, which just makes it so much worse. It is so much of a concern, at known tourist spots there are rangers out who WILL confiscate any photographic equipment before you get near the beach ... and if they catch you firing off a flash, you'll be in some hot water.
-
Thanks for the advise Poddy, Shyer & Brum6y. I need all the help I can get.
-
'''''Flash at dusk to evening is quite intense and will blind ....... It is so much of a concern, at known tourist spots there are rangers out who WILL confiscate any photographic equipment before you get near the beach ....
Brumby I take your point , any living thing can be upset with flash especailly in low light. However the discussion was about macro and flys ect and flowers do not have that problem. I will also give my weekends play in another post.
-
I had the oportunity to play with the canon sx20is and fujifilm hs10 my results below for what I call a picnic camera.
New Review here of hs10, lots around for sx20
http://www.ephotozine.com/article/Fujifilm-FinePix-HS10-13479 (http://www.ephotozine.com/article/Fujifilm-FinePix-HS10-13479)
Firstly he is talking about a 375 pounds UK price. In australia price is 330 pounds equivelent. Yet the canon is more expensive by similar amount in OZ
I have played with hs10 and canon sx20is deceiding which to keep. Canon sx20 has no raw files, CHDA have beta still in development. hs10 is slow in raw. overall IQ the canon has the edge but not the zoom range. The canon is smaller and lighter and feels more solid. The hs while heavier feels lighter because of size I feel. The canons viewfinder is useable the fuji viewfinder is terriable small view and NO soft rubber to seal out light, flat not curved also nearly flush with LCD. Need no nose to use and smears LCD. I will cut an old soft rubber viewfinder and glue on.
Canons lcd swivels and folds away to protect Fuji screen only tilts however is larger.
I do a lot of macro. The available manual focusing ring on fuji is great. The fuji flash is larger and higher thus in macro more useable
Bottom line for me fuji designer needs nose cut off and eye socket hammered flat. That said I can fix easily. The fuji for me just got nod side by side. Used individually I thought the fuji would walk away.
The decider for me was no canon raw available yet and fuji manual focus ring. Some one else will have different wants.
PM me if you want a sx20 used two days 50 photos or................. maybe not
-
'''''Flash at dusk to evening is quite intense and will blind ....... It is so much of a concern, at known tourist spots there are rangers out who WILL confiscate any photographic equipment before you get near the beach ....
Brumby I take your point , any living thing can be upset with flash especailly in low light. However the discussion was about macro and flys ect and flowers do not have that problem. I will also give my weekends play in another post.
Agreed, it's not a problem for flowers nor would it worry me about insects. Just a bit of 'general' information - to help give an appreciation of one aspect of flash usage that may not be obvious. Photography is usually quite a benign activity - but, like most things, there are exceptions.
A couple of other points using flash - regarding distance:
* The effective distance for flash is the distance from the flash to the subject - not from the camera to the subject. Usually these are the same, since the flash is most often located with the camera, but there are situations where you might want a flash located some distance from the camera. I won't go into the details here as this steps into another level of discussion.
* If you are up in the grandstand for a night-time event - sporting, concert, Olympic ceremony or whatever - your flash isn't going to do anything other than light up the backs of the heads of the people in front of you. Flash intensity drops off according to the inverse square law - which simply means that if something is twice as far away, there is only one quarter of the brightness. Once you get past a certain distance, there is not enough light to give you a good exposure and the subject will just get murkier, the further it is away. This distance will vary with the flash unit and the capabilities of the camera, but your average setup will struggle from around 20 metres (Shyer - is this still about right?). There is one good thing - if a TV camera is around and focussed on the grandstand when a celebrity or other 'interesting' thing happens - the resultant storm of flashes makes for a very attractive 'sparkly' effect in the crowd.
* Close-up, flash can be just too bright for the camera to cope. I think someone said this earlier (was it Shyer?) - just keep a plain white handkerchief handy and hold it across the front of the flash to reduce the intensity. You can adjust the amount of reduction by how many layers the hanky has been folded.
Only this last point is of any relevance for macro photography...
-
Ubb if you want time to compose a macro pic of an insect do a preflash and then they freeze for a while and you have more time to set up :)
-
Your standard 4 AA battery swivel , tilt flash 200mm long 100 wide and 30mm deep is now 30 to 40 meter range (ISO 100 F2.8 50mm focal length) some up to 50 meters with Zoom (ie ISO100 , F2.8 100mm focal length)
Look at these pictures of cloth diffuser on a small 2 battery hotshoe flash. The first picture shows fitted . Elastic band fits 99% of consumer flash heads. The 4th one shows foil on one side, can use as bounce.
The last photo shows 3 photos one with external flash (built in always worse) notice hard light, hard shadows loss of detail colours distorted ie spotlight effect. 2nd natural light notice body shake as speed 1/30th and DOF bad as lens wide open. 3rd shows with diffuser all problems solved.
http://kaidomain.com/ProductImages.aspx?ProductId=4395 (http://kaidomain.com/ProductImages.aspx?ProductId=4395)
My local camera club sells these diffusers, if you can not find easily, only $10 post included and makes a few dollars to help with sundry costs. They are light, flexiable and small.
-
Taken with a f:2.8 150mm macro prime ISO 200. Diffused lighting from a Nikon Speedlight SB900.
(http://www.boomspeed.com/mugarinya1/fly_united.jpg)
-
Brilliant Photograph Coinfucious. So clear & detailed. I'm jealous. I can't hope to get such fine detail. I guess I better get a lense suited for macro.
-
Shyer. I haven't seen those diffusers around. They look great. Can you recommend where I could buy one?
-
Taken with a f:2.8 150mm macro prime ISO 200. Diffused lighting from a Nikon Speedlight SB900.
(http://www.boomspeed.com/mugarinya1/fly_united.jpg)
Caption " que music " I only jave eyes for you dear.
Coinfucious a great shot !
-
I just use a scanner. It's sooooo much easier. like this. Just place the coin on the glass and hey, PRESTO! All done. ;D
-
Great LACE, you are there!
Ubb GR8 photos, subject lacking interest!! .....lol.....pretty obvious which is MALE!!
-
Taken with a f:2.8 150mm macro prime ISO 200. Diffused lighting from a Nikon Speedlight SB900.
(http://www.boomspeed.com/mugarinya1/fly_united.jpg)
Quite impressive.
Could I ask - approximately how big were the subjects?
-
Hi brumby6y...purely guessing here...about a centimetre and a half... ;D
Have a look at this fly..........
http://www.boomspeed.com/mugarinya1/macro_fly2.jpg (http://www.boomspeed.com/mugarinya1/macro_fly2.jpg)
......or this one of a dragon fly...
http://www.boomspeed.com/mugarinya1/dragonfly3.jpg (http://www.boomspeed.com/mugarinya1/dragonfly3.jpg)
The underlying message here is macro prime lenses are better than zoom type lenses even though they may have a macro function capability.
For my other passion (coins), I use a 60mm f:2.8 Micro Nikor and the r1c1 ring lighting to achieve this sort of a result....
http://www.boomspeed.com/mugarinya1/1862_Gold_Mohur_O-1.jpg (http://www.boomspeed.com/mugarinya1/1862_Gold_Mohur_O-1.jpg)
http://www.boomspeed.com/mugarinya1/1862_Gold_Mohur_R-1.jpg (http://www.boomspeed.com/mugarinya1/1862_Gold_Mohur_R-1.jpg)
Cheers
-
Hi Coinfucious,
Some excellent shots,
The Two macro lens coinfusious is talking about and flash is some $3000. Here is link to show examples with a point and shoot camera lens more ultra zoom than best optical quality using $160 raynox lens set of 2 suit 95% of all cameras.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/40328999@N02/4169436653/in/set-72157622719063271/ (http://www.flickr.com/photos/40328999@N02/4169436653/in/set-72157622719063271/)
-
Coinfusious. What is a macro prime lense. Are they expensive or moderately priced by lens $ standard. I have a Canon EOS 550D DSLR and I'm scratching my head as to what sort of (brand etc) lens I should be looking for. What would you suggest?
I'm only new to digital photography & have much to learn. I'm still trying to come to grips with Photoshop Elements, layering etc..
Shyer. What do you mean by "$160 raynox lens set of 2"? Can you point me in the right direction?
-
Ubbie here is a canon macro 100mm lens $900 some slighter cheaper tamron / sigma ect available in canon mount.
http://www.teds.com.au/canon-slr-lenses/canon-ef-100mm-f2-8-macro-usm/w1/i2105583_2074819/ (http://www.teds.com.au/canon-slr-lenses/canon-ef-100mm-f2-8-macro-usm/w1/i2105583_2074819/)
Poddy has more experience than me with Raynox, $160 set which comprises 150 and 250 lens .
150 which is 1.5 times lifesize on a 200 mm lens about 0.8 on a 100mm . 250 is 2.5 times lifesize on 200mm lens.
This is my pick of canon macro lens note $1500 can get O/s for under $1000 but shipping, customs and GST apply.
http://www.digitalcamerawarehouse.com.au/prod4390.htm (http://www.digitalcamerawarehouse.com.au/prod4390.htm)
You can see the raynox are good bang for bucks.
-
Ps here is link to 150 and 250 raynox and sample photos notice how 3 element raynox lens eats the 20+ filter
http://www.digitalcamerawarehouse.com.au/prod4390.htm (http://www.digitalcamerawarehouse.com.au/prod4390.htm)
http://photovideo.com.au/raynox-dcr250-macro-lens-p-1445.html?osCsid=15d869de2b6ec7522cc2974f9c73a756 (http://photovideo.com.au/raynox-dcr250-macro-lens-p-1445.html?osCsid=15d869de2b6ec7522cc2974f9c73a756)
notice $120 for 150 alone, with 250 over $250 with post
-
A zoom lens is a lens designed to function at a variable focal length.
A prime lens is a lens designed to function at a fixed focal length.
Zoom lenses have a complex variable geometry setup in order to give the zoom function, as well as the focussing adjustment.
Prime lenses only have the focussing adjustment.
FACT: There is no such thing as the perfect lens. Lens design and manufacture is a compromise. The degree of compromise is inversely reflected in the price - and will be evident when you make your lens work at its limits. You aren't likely to notice much with 'Happy snaps' - but get into fine detail shots where centre, edge and corner sharpness and chromatic artifacts are important and you will see why one lens costs $150 and another $2500.
In accommodating a variable geometry, zoom lenses must deal with a continuously variable range of configurations. Since the optical path changes (to give the magnification) light passes through different portions of each of the (less than perfect) lens elements with different zoom settings - and that means it is much more difficult to get a high quality result.
A prime lens, however, can be more easily designed to provide a high quality result, since the 'less than perfect' lens elements are in a fixed position (except for the minor adjustment of focussing) and it is much easier to compensate for the deviations from the ideal.
In a nutshell - a prime lens will ALWAYS produce a higher quality result than a zoom lens (of equivalent quality, of course). Whether it is important for your needs, is a question only you can answer.
MACRO is a function of getting bigger images of smaller subjects.
A macro zoom lens will have one end of its zoom range allocated to the macro function. It effectively limits the maximum distance you can focus on.
A macro prime lens will do the same, but will have a higher quality image for the reasons given above.
The choice between a zoom or a prime lens for macro work involves a number of considerations, but distance from the subject is NOT usually one of them. To fill the frame at such close distances, moving a camera with a prime lens toward or away from the subject is usually just as easy as using the zoom on a zoom lens.
-
Well summarised brum6y/shyer, I would not have been able to put it any better........ ;D
-
Very interesting reading. Are the 150 & 250 macro lenses what I call filters that screw on the end of a lens?
What's this lens like, it's very cheap, Canon 50mm 1:1.8 EF II lens
-
Hi Ubbie.
That 50mm lens is not macro is what is usually used as portrait lens or some lanscapes group shots.
A dedicatted macro lens is always expensive as limited production runs and complicated . On your canon your lens choice is limited to lens made in last 15 years, so even S/H still dear also canon IS, is in lens if you want that extra again. My old pentax 50mm f4 macro lens fully manual thus about 30 years or older. excellent appearance and working condition I sold for $110 recently. And I paid over $400 for a 5 year old f2 100mm auto apature. auto focus. Pentax shake reduction is in body.
I find 90% of my macro shots are manual with flash with some sort of rest. Only in 5% of shots kept, do I use auto features. Auto is only an aid sometimes to get right manual settings.
The raynox 150/250 are not a filter IMHO even though they attach to frount of lens, they are a lens as they are three lens arranged in a group of 2 sets. If you look at earlier link photo the hoyo +20 filter is one piece of glass. Thus IMHO a filter in reality an expensive, best quality magnifing glass. Still with major distortions. The raynox have minimal distortion till prints poster size. Even the best $2000 macro lens often display faults at poster size.
The main reason I wanted 100mm was not auto or or F2 but the exta focal length, as it keeps me at 200/300 mm from subject. not the 100/150 old ones working range. This means not scaring things and better light from on or off camera flashes. Also more depth of field .I use the raynox lens on my macro lens to go past marco life size to micro up to 3 x times magnification. even with flash a tripod is needed as focus is wafer thin, as moving 0.2mm and out of focus
-
Thanks for that info Shyer. If I get a Raynox 150 or 250 macro lens which lens is best for it, my 18-55 or 55-250? Also should I get the 150 or 250 (what is the difference)
-
Have a read of this macro discussion over at the coinee's section of OZRT. I am not sure whether non coinees can access this link.
http://www.ozroundtable.com/index.php?topic=2102.80 (http://www.ozroundtable.com/index.php?topic=2102.80)
-
Hi Ubbie raynox will suit your 55-300 lens if filter thread is 66mm or less. Even up to 72mm with a reducing ring just a few dollars . You will mainly be in the 150 /200 range in use.
The links above give prices for both the 150 and 250 $120/$140 while most people use the 150 about 60% of the time. Both 150 and 250 for $150/180 odd dollars is good value IMHO . The only difference is the 250 has more magnification .
Some interesting shots in that coin thread
-
Hi shyer, I would think the coinees would be right into macro photography because of the type of hobby their in, I'm surprised they don't have more input into this thread...
-
Ripper everyone. I just bought a Raynox 250 from a USA seller for A$79.95 including post. Down the track I'll buy the 150 as well. My lenses have 58mm threads.
-
Hi Ubbie,
Often large price difference's in camera stuff between USA and OZ. It will lessen as OZ importers see sales going OS. The 250 is a little harder to use. I for walk a bout carry a monopod and a table tripod flash on hotshoe and cloth diffuser, all ready discussed and a folding stool , Yes I am lazy but not that lazy.
Macro is manual , so get used to focusing manually and setting appatures, set speed to camera flash sync speed to start. Start with matchboxes NO raynox to get farmilar with DOF and flash power and direction.
Then move to stamps with raynox and get used to monopod and tripod on stool or table. In field I use mini tripod lying on ground or stool everything else set the monopod to the height I want the using stool as arm rest or sitting on stool even standing on stool And move monopod in and out to get focus. with 250 I usually use remote release rather than go for button on camera. 250 is harder to learn than 150.
Then move on to dead leaves or dead insects . When you are happy with results then go after them live plants and Things. ALL Live things give you tiny setup times, also everything in nature has a defence . 50 wasps stings, red back bite and stink bug squirt in eye tought me that keeping your distance is VERY important. Stink bug the worst took 4 weeks for sight to start to improve, doctor got me worried damage was perement.
-
Yibi.......I think most of the coinees are not aware of this thread.
shyer...yes, he little darlings don't just stand around for you to take photos and some of them do BITE.
I have for quite sometime now, wanted to capture on camera, close up shots of the dangerous snakes that inhabit the country here (some of my friends think I am mad) especially the Mulga snake (aka King Brown), but todate have not had a single success yet.
-
I have for quite sometime now, wanted to capture on camera, close up shots of the dangerous snakes that inhabit the country here (some of my friends think I am mad) especially the Mulga snake (aka King Brown), but todate have not had a single success yet.
Hi Yids,
IMHO Coin macro is a macro specialist field, I think it belongs in coins. just good that readers and posters are now aware of both threads
Hi Fucious ,
What flowers do you and your family like?
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
Just need to know so I send right ones to your funeral
-
Plenty of snakes in summer at my archery range. Mostly black snakes but we see the odd Brown. When they are around agin in the spring/summer I will try to photograph one or two.
-
Plenty of snakes in summer at my archery range. Mostly black snakes but we see the odd Brown. When they are around agin in the spring/summer I will try to photograph one or two.
Hope your going to use a X 10 magnification lens Ubb's ?.... I have a Lumix with that lens and built in stabilizer....
Panasonic Lumix ....DMC-FZ1A-K
-
Shyer...definately orchids, as I was originally from Singapore. Migrated to this great country in 1973... ;D
The Mulga apparently is more venomous than the tigers or even the taipans. On top of it, we also have the death adders.
-
Yep Coinfucious. The Brown, specifically the Eastern Brown is the second deadliest snake in Australia & one of the most deadliest in the world.
Our deadliest snake rated on potency of venom is the Fierce snake which is found in inland Australia. Although there are no recorded deaths attributed to the Fierce it still rates in the top 10 deadliest snakes in the world.
There is considerable debate as to which is the world's deadliest snake & it is split between the Black Mamba & the Saw Scaled Viper, both found on the African continent.
There area number of categories each snake is scaled on & they include, potency of venom, amount of venom injected, aggressivness, speed & number of recorded deaths. There might be one or two other categories but, I can't remember.
-
Ubb's I thought you said the Brussels Sprout was the deadliest of all ?....
-
Yeah Yib your right. It doesn't get a rating by the experts simply because it is such a subtle killer & many thousand, probably millions, of deaths by Sprout are not attributed to the evil sprout. The Sprouts only mortal enemies are, Pepsi Max & Pluto Pups.
-
Vipers, venom and vicious creatures..... ?
I think I'll let you take them on - I'll just admire the works you create!
I'll going to stick to my desktop setup - where my biggest risk is the silent but deadly wind passed by the dog. (seriously - you HAVE to leave the room!)
-
Vipers, venom and vicious creatures..... ?
I think I'll let you take them on - I'll just admire the works you create!
I'll going to stick to my desktop setup - where my biggest risk is the silent but deadly wind passed by the dog. (seriously - you HAVE to leave the room!)
Feed him a can of Pepsi brums... thought I'd get in before Ubb's....
-
You want me to add MORE GAS to that gut???
Nooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooo!
-
I have this question for someone more knowlegable than moi, it concerns "vibration reduction". Which is better, lens based or camera based ?
Thanks
-
I have this question for someone more knowlegable than moi, it concerns "vibration reduction". Which is better, lens based or camera based ?
Hi fucious,
I am sure a physist could argue benefits of each system. Having used VR for 10 years now on Video, DSLR and compacts and many brands including canon nikon pentax fuji lumix sony . Two basic rules seem to apply new technology is better than old technology and you only get what you pay for. A $100 xxx brand item will never be as good a what is in a $2000 lens alone both same age.
In DSLR I prefer body correction which is sensor based rather than lens correction. Just for the facts that you only pay for the hardware and software once. Easier for 3rd party lens to be produced from both cost and copyright issuses. You are able to use old thus cheap good lens and get the benifit. The fewer contacts or info going betwen lens and body is less things to go wrong in the real world with dust, water and contaminates.
In fixed lens unit I see no difference. I think you will see the hobby market soon move away from starter DSLR as 15 to 30 zooms will get better and that covers 90% of hobbists . You eliminate contaminates problems when changing lens and total package gets smaller and lighter. The cheap box browning of the 1920s got the public taking photos. The
-
First, a query.... Exactly what criteria do you use to determine "better"? Performance; Price; Features/options?
I have no practical experience on this subject, but I will offer a couple of thoughts in favour of body based "vibration reduction".
The first thought is to echo Shyer's comments on duplication of cost, the ability to use regular lenses and the reliability issues. The second is that, within a lens there are greater space constraints than there are within the body. To compromise or limit the design of any mechanism within the lens due to space will not provide an optimal solution.
A question to be raised is whether there are any fundamental mechanical/optical benefits that are inherent in lens over body based solutions. I do not know the answer to this.
-
Thanks guys for the replies........
VR, VC, IS or whatever each different brand manufacturer uses, I guess the principles are the same.
Here is an interesting article I came across, a MUST read for Nikon users....
http://bythom.com/nikon-vr.htm (http://bythom.com/nikon-vr.htm)
Happy SHooting
-
Interesting article.
I would suggest anybody asking about VR be directed to read it. If they come out of it wondering if they need VR, then (in my opinion) they have a good grasp of the subject and are more likely to make wise choices.
If they still think VR is the best thing since sliced bread, then they are a victim of the marketing hype.
As with so many things - being capable of producing a result is one thing ... but understanding what is actually going on will allow you excel.
-
All you camera officianado's who use Photoshop. Check out these sites. There are a lot of free plug ins for photoshop & some are very good.
http://www.photo-plugins.com/Plugins/Plugins/
http://www.mehdiplugins.com/
If you are not sure how to install them let me know & I'll try to explain how I installed to photoshop (Elements 8) on my Windows 7 systemn.
-
Thanks Ubbie....I use Elements 8 on a Windows 7 (64bit) system as well. ;D
-
Coinfucious. Do you photograph in RAW? I do & it can be a pain downloading the photos. I try to download direct to Photoshop (full edit) as the Cannon program is fairly useless with RAW, unless I'm doing something wrong.
I'm Windows 7 64 bit
-
I find photoshop complicated I use free arcsoft and Silkypix (shareware around) for raw loading and basic conversion. Do not know if either works under 7 or 64 bit.
-
I find photoshop complicated I use free arcsoft and Silkypix (shareware around) for raw loading and basic conversion. Do not know if either works under 7 or 64 bit.
I'm no expert on photography in fact I'm a novice's novice. LOL
However, when you say unsure if works on Windows 7 or 64 bit, it seems this is always a problem for awhile whenever new OS's come out. There are so many packages that the producers of have not yet updated to accommodate. I had the same trouble with Vista Home premium because I got it with a new computer when it first came out. For awhile it was really frustrating getting drivers for cameras etc. Items that would work on XP but not with Vista. It seems now things have caught up but a lot of older cameras are defunct re drivers still even for Vista. I had to purchase a New Sony Camera because my previous one also a Sony I couldn't even download the photos to my PC. I wasted heaps of money on "Card Readers" hoping to get in that way who claimed OK for Vista but no drivers ever found that even those would work. My PC doesn't have a card reader as such.
:crazy:
-
Yep Shyer. I can't get a grip on layers in photoshop. I'm getting a book (Photoshop Elements 8 For Dummies) & I hope this explains layers in plain English.
Ther are many other aspects of Photoshop & I use a lot of them with success to embellish or improve my photos.
-
I recently joined a photography club & have already learned a lot.
On the first Tuesday of each month the club has a competition & members bring photos (generally A4 size) for judging by a qualified judge from another area.
I decided to give it a go last Tuesday night & showed the photo depicted below. I had to reduse it's size so I could post it here.
Much to my surprise the judge commented on it favourably & it won a merit.
[attachment deleted by admin]
-
Yep Shyer. I can't get a grip on layers in photoshop.
My ex wife was at one time a screen printer I find thinking about layers as print screens so you will first prirt the black screen then dark red screen then the light red then ...... and finish with the light yellow and light grey screens.
-
This is a tree I photographed while away in the Snowy fly fishing. I've done a bit of photoshop to it.
I had to reduce it's quality to post it here.
[attachment deleted by admin]
-
Elements 8 works with both 32 as well 64 bit versions of Win 7.
However, reading photos taken in Raw mode is "tricky". I am still experimenting with it.
My Cam allows me to take photos in both normal (set to Vivid) as well as Raw and I play around between the two modes.
A close friend who knows more than moi suggested I should try out "Corel Paint SHop Pro Photo X 2".Apparently it is easy using this post processing program.
-
LAYERS ... can be used to make life really easy if you are doing fancy things, like adding captions, thought bubbles or adding a person to a group photo.
If you are just tweaking an existing photo, then using layers may not make any obvious sense. However, once you DO grasp the idea, you might find ways for layers to make it easier.
One question Ubb: What is it about layers you aren't sure about:
(a) What they are?
(b) What they can be used for?
(c) How to use them in Photoshop (or other software package)?
-
G'day Brum6y. I know what layers are & what they can be used for but, I don't know how to perform the functions, for example, Layers can be used to change a boring sky to a more vibrant sky etc.
Hopefully the Photoshop For Dummies will explain it in layman's terms.
-
OK - just wanted to check. Each program does things differently. I know Photostudio quite well (Comes with Canon gear) but the others are unfamiliar territory.
You'll be teaching me soon...!
-
"You'll be teaching me soon...!"
I doubt that Brum6y, you have a better handle on these things than I do, or ever will have.
I'll keep plodding along though slowly learning, I hope.
-
This is an interesting shot of a dragon fly.
(http://www.boomspeed.com/mugarinya1/Dragonfly_5.jpg)
Same photo cropped to show just the head.
(http://www.boomspeed.com/mugarinya1/Dragonfly_6.jpg)
-
Absolutly brilliant photos Coinfucious. I wish I had the lenses & skill to take such intricate photos like that.
How do you get the insects to stay still?
-
Hi Ubbie....snap in the night, insects tend to stay still and allow you to get a lot closer when it is dark. This was taken with a Sigma f:2.8 150mm telemacro lens at a distance of approximately 0.5 metre.
-
Thanks for the info Coinfucious. I just checked Ebay for the lense you used. There are some listed for about A$1,000.
I assume you use a flash for the insects when photographing at night. Do you diffuse the flash?
I have so much to learn.
-
I bought mine for about $900 from a HK seller. With a dropping Aussie dollar, this might force the price to go up.
Compared to the known brands like Nikon or Cannon, it is about half their price. Performance wise it is a very good tele macro lens.
Cheers
-
This is also an excellent lens for canon DSLR. where others stops at 1 to 1 life size this starts there and up to 5 times life size.
http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/183199-GREY/Canon_2540A002_Macro_Photo_MP_E_65mm.html (http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/183199-GREY/Canon_2540A002_Macro_Photo_MP_E_65mm.html)
Note price, postage about $50Au, Au dollar and GST will apply
-
shyer - I'm told you know lots and lots about camera ;)
(Thanks to yibs)
By Hubby (the bestest in the WHOLE world) just bought me a HUGE camera - bigger than I wanted - but I am NOT going to complain
A Nikon D3000 with telescopic lens - now the question is.......... what else do I need?
I'm assuming a camera bag, a a tripod (not too big) can you recommend a seller or better still a product for my tiny little needs?
Any help greatly accepted!
-
Wokkie
- what sort of shots would you be taking?
- what sort of shots would you be taking that you would want to use a tripod.
The reason I ask is that there is a great range of accessories, many designed for specific situations.
With tripods, you can go from the big studio units with centre lift and bracing down to the humble 'Clamp-pod' - a pocket-sized G-clamp with an adjustable camera screw and a couple of legs. Mine even has a heavy duty wood screw, for (ahem) affixing to a suitable stable object.
A clamp-pod isn't an ideal solution, but they are small enough to carry all the time... and if you need a stable support, it's better than hand-held.
This isn't mine - but an example of a clamp-pod.
[attachment deleted by admin]
-
I've got no idea - if I had chosen the camera I would have gone point and shoot - yes I'm lazy etc..... (don't boo)
The tripod, the only reason I need one (yes need) is to be able to utilise the telescopic lens (300mm) F/4-5.6 (LD MACRO 1:2) - It's HUGE and ANY movement I've already discovered will blur the picture even when sitting on a fence post!
(admitedly it was a dark shot and takes longer to focus etc)
I imagine mostly weather type shoots, lightening etc - that's what I was using the Point and shoot for.
[attachment deleted by admin]
-
Regular tripods come in a variety of configurations - but some of the basics are as follows:
1) Legs are made up of a number of sections that telescope. It is common for there to be 3 sections, but you could have any number. More sections means more joins and where there are joins, there is movement. Even when locked the extended legs are not as stiff as a single piece. For minimum movement, the idea is to have as few sections as possible and have an effective locking system. However, for a given height, fewer sections means they will be longer - and this will result in a larger package to cart around. Tripods with more sections will be shorter and easier to carry around - and because they were designed for high portability, they tend to be lighter (and flimsier) ... which means they aren't going to be as rigid.
2) Leg locking. There are situations where the ground will not be level or you are working on a step or some other obstacle will mean the legs of your tripod will be of differing lengths for it to be set up correctly for the shot. In these cases, the leg locking mechanism will need to operate with full effectiveness at any point in the travel of each leg. This is not normally a problem for the larger units, but just one thing to check when you are buying one. With the smaller portable units, make this a definite check.
3) Centre lift column. Just an easy way to get some height adjustment, without having to fidlle around with changing leg lengths. Not essential, but if you have a choice - get one with this feature.
4) Leg bracing. Good for stiffening up the whole tripod so things don't move around. Also keeps legs in place if you are moving the whole tripod around. If you are going for extreme telephoto, this might be worthwhile, but I wouldn't get too anxious about this when starting out. It adds weight and cost, too.
5) Head. Some tripods have a simple 1/4" whitworth thread (the standard thread for just about all cameras) on a basic swivel. I would recommend going for a pan & tilt head. That's the one with the arm out the back, like in the photo below.
Last - and perhaps the MOST IMPORTANT is a remote shutter release. In the days of film cameras, this was done with a mechanical device called a cable release. They would screw into the shutter release button. These days, there are electronic devices as well, but whatever you do, make sure you have one when working on a tripod. The reason is very simple ... when you press the shutter release on the camera body, the camera WILL MOVE. Even top professionals can't completly eliminate this movement. It may cause your framing of the shot to change, but it will certainly add some motion blur ... which is one of the chief reasons tripods are used. If using extreme telephoto it can render your shot unrecognisable. However, if you are doing close up work, such as portaits, in good light with short exposure times, you could get away with your finger on the camera ... just remember to squeeze the camera, not just push the button down.
Example of a 4 section tripod with centre lift and a pan/tilt head fitted.
[attachment deleted by admin]
-
that's look so big and awkward!
I see I'm going to have to think about this a great deal more before committing. :musing:
NOw you know why I liked point and shoot! :D
What about those flexible type ones? - Are they any good? - I;ve heard about them, but besides that I know very little
Oh well - Going to hit the sack and do some thinking!
thanks for all the input - will catch up again tomorrow!
Night all
-
OK Wokkie - for lightening shots, you will need something as rigid as possible. The shutter will be open for long times and while the lightening will be captured sharply, you don't want any of the countryside that will be illuminated or silhouetted to be appearing in different spots.
Motion blur is accentuated by two factors - focal length and exposure time.
- The longer the focal length, the more any movement is magnified (which you've found out)
- The longer the exposure time, the more chance there is of movement being affecting your image.
This is where it gets fun....
Longer focal lengths mean higher f-numbers - which, in turn, means dimmer images. You compensate for this by doing one or more of the following:
1. Increasing illumination of the subject (if possible)
2. Increasing sensitivity of the image capture device (in film days, this meant using a 'faster' film)
3. Increasing exposure time.
- For weather shots, the first is not viable.
- The second has a similar problem for both film and electronic sensors - when you operate at a 'faster' film/setting, you get an increase in graininess/noise
- The third option increases motion problems, either from camera shake or subject movement.
If portability is not a big issue, I would suggest something with 3 sections and bracing. Centre lift column isn't going to be much use for weather shots, but it can be handy for other situations. Pan and tilt head is a must.
This is just my thoughts - others may have something else to add...
-
Sorry if I've scared you off, Wokkie.
When all is said and done, maybe just go out and find something inexpensive that you feel comfortable with. See how you go.
If it works well enough for what you want, then that's all that really matters. If not, then you have a bit of info above and more than one person here who can answer questions.
Oh, just one more thing, don't ever apologise for 'point and shoot' preferences. If you get photos that you like, everyone else can get knotted.
-
I use a kodak c433 for all my shots ..... cheap, easy to use and beautiful results
-
For general photography , besides a tripod, the next thing you may want to consider is a reasonable flash. The pop up flash that comes with the camera is inadequate.
Nikon produces a fair range of speedlites from about a couple of hundred to $800-$900. Obviously, the more it costs, the more powerful it is, with better illumination over a greater distance.
Whilst it is not mandatory for landscapes, it is a must for macros and portraits.
THere are also cheaper third party ones but I have not used any of them to recommend any. Shyer might be able to help out here.
Cheers
-
What about those flexible type ones? - Are they any good? ....
hi Da,
I am interested in photography and it's many years since I retired from professional phootgraphy. However I do think I can offer some pointers. What brumby has said about tripods and remote releases is 100% correct and for night photos like you displayed the best way to shoot. I also take my hat off to your hubby he has listened to a honest and knowledgeable camera salesman and got execellent value for his $, for lots more than just weather photography. Look at this set taken with your lens on a similar camera body. Click on a thumbnail to enlarge.
http://www.pbase.com/jpwii/tamron_70300mm_f456_di_ld_macro_sample_images (http://www.pbase.com/jpwii/tamron_70300mm_f456_di_ld_macro_sample_images)
The lens is beautifly sharp on the frogs eye you can even see a sharp relfection of the lanshape behind. While also nice on the geese in flight and jet black Cracken against very pale wood.
Photography is all about light and either in macro or telephoto for weather shots a point and shoot 20mm diameter lens has 9 times, yes 9 times less light to give clean sharp images than your lens. There is no 20mm diameter lens made cost regardless . That can beat the tarmon 62mm diameter telephoto lens you have, size is a trade off for quality. Same in sensor battery life the list goes on.
I personally can not use a tripod for weather shots. I can not set up quicky enough on tripod for fast action. Some people with more tripod experience can. My starting point for weather photography would be turn off auto focus set to near infinity, set f to smallest number if 8 /11/ 22 and move iso up if needs be 400 and above can get blurry . Let camera pick speed make sure 1/125 sec or faster. Set telephoto to suit framing er towards less telephoto ( you can always crop but never increase) Use a rest, fence is fine, as is car roof, tree trunk, side rest is as good bottom rest even chair. All those settings means less blurring from hand shake and no waiting for focus ect. Things like lightning will help in sharp images as flash occurs over miliseconds. Just like a camera flash freezes the moment.
The first addition I would consider a monopod, fast to use,cheaper, lighter and smaller than tripod. Expensive head is not important as monopod easilly tilded or swiveled . I also like a foot rest to help clamp the bottom. For landscapes, I would then consider a wide angle 20 mm or so lens, no auto focus and no zoom but f2 or better to see the clarity a fixed lens can give. Tripod and remote for long exposures times may now be needed. Then a flash nikon make excellent but very expensive flashes form $400 up to thousands $. There are many aftermarket ones just as useable from $100.
-
I did try to post something this morning - failed on me - obviously I can't remember it!
shyer because of the height we are here - I don;t need to move much - the storms move east to south west to north rotation around us - so by spinning on the spot I can use the same position for maybe 5-10 minutes BEFORE I have to move.
I've never had an interest in close-ups - although that might change. Purely weather - I am desperate for some stupid reason to catch lightening - full flash fork lightening
But that will take time and many months perhaps years of patience
here is a photo I took with a N-70 (phone) imagine if I had a 'real' camera
[attachment deleted by admin]
-
Coinfucious re #300 "However, reading photos taken in Raw mode is "tricky". I am still experimenting with it"
I now have Photoshop Elements 8 & I download my Raw photos from my Canon EOS 550D straight to Photoshop Full Edit. I take the SD card out of the Camera & whack it into a card reader & attach the card reader to one of the computer USB's.
I then (in full edit) go to file, open & open the drive that correspondes to card reader USB port (K drive in my case.
The photos are there in camera file number & I just highlight all the numbers & download.
The above is from memory as I haven't downloaded any for a week or two & I tend to forget computer stuff if I don't do it regularly. Raw photos can't be downloaded to Photoshop organiser just Full edit.
-
da_ewok. I'm impressed with your photos, considering you took them with a mobile phone. I'd love to see similar photos taken with a Digital SLR especially after a bit of touch up work with photoshop or a similar program.
-
I was playing around with the telescopic lens tonight - I took it off auto and surprising did rather well - nothing to show yet - (although I haven;t downloaded anything yet) Would have been nice to have a tripod - but I did alright - might download the photos and see if ther is anything worth posting for you.
Thanks everyone for the help - learning heaps already!
-
- I took it off auto and surprising did rather well - ....
All auto focus systems will hunt in low light, even the most expensive are slow, if you know you want focus at 100 meters plus, most storms are 2000 meters or more. Remove a problem turn off auto and set near infinity with f8 or higher this means 100meters to infinity is now in focus, and no waiting or auto errors.
-
I have found a very good forum for Photoshop users. It is;
http://www.elementsvillage.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=20&order=desc&page=14
I have picked up some great tips & a problem with downloading the latest Camera Raw updater was solved for me.
As a result of the solution I worked out how to move Raw photos from My photographs folder direct to Elements 8 Organiser. Many said it couldn't be done.
If anyone wants to know how I did it I'll post the instructions here. They will be plain English (in my words) instructions.
I recommend that anyone using Elements 8 & photgraphing in Raw download the latest "Camera Raw 6.1 for PSE8", found here,
http://www.adobe.com/support/downloa...jsp?ftpID=4730
This download is for up to Elements 8 but, I used the relevant file (copying it) to make it possible to transfer Raw photos to Elements 8 Organiser as well.
-
The correct link to get Camera Raw 6.1 for PSE8 Windows is here:
http://www.adobe.com/support/downloa...jsp?ftpID=4730
The instructions on how to install it are further down that page but basically you need to Proceed to the Download and download the zip file to somewhere you can find it again (eg your desktop).
Now right click on the zip file and "Extract All". You'll now have a folder with two files and a folder in it. Double click on the file called CameraProfiles.exe and run it.
You now need to find the old version of Camera Raw.8bi on your computer which will be in:
C:\Program Files\Common Files\Adobe\Plug-Ins\Elements 8\File Formats\
or if you have Windows7 64bit
C:\Program Files(x86)\Common Files\Adobe\Plug-Ins\Elements 8\File Formats\
Drag out the old version of Camera Raw.8bi and put it somewhere else (rename it if you want but you must remove it from that folder)
Now put the new version in its place.
Start up PSE8 and you should have Camera Raw 6.1 loaded (you can check by looking in the Editor under Help>About Plug-Ins>Camera Raw and it should show a box that says Version 6.1.0.250)
-
In order to be able to transfer RAW photos from your photographs folder to Elements 8 organiser I used the following steps (after installing the new Camera Raw 6.1 for PSE8, see post above ).
Open Explorer > open Adobe> open Photoshop Elements 8 >open Plug - ins> double click on File formats & you will see Camera Raw.8bi on the right hand list on your monitor. Leave the right hand side folders with Camera Raw.8bi open.
Then open Elements Organiser 8 on the left hand side (single click) > open Plug -Ins > open Organiser Only (found just below File Formats) > open File formats (a sub folder of Organiser Only).
Now drag a copy of Camera Raw.8bi from the right hand side, which was opened earlier, into File formats (the sub folder of Organiser Only).
Make sure it is a copy and you have not moved the original Camera Raw.8bi folder out of Elements 8 File Formats.
That is how I got Elements 8 Organiser to be able to accept Raw photos, CR2 in my case as I use a Canon.
-
THought I'd share - was hunting koala - instead found Roo on the hop
(not sure if this will work :( )
[attachment deleted by admin]
-
that's brilliant
can i take a copy please?
-
that's brilliant
can i take a copy please?
Yes you may!
Any photo NOT watermarked - you may 'steal' from me ;)
You'll know the ones you can't!
Not sure about it being brilliant - but for a VERY FIRST effort - it's not bad - I was moving and he was moving too - which is why so distorted :(
-
Ripper photo Wokie. Shows a lot of speed. What sort of camera were you using?
-
A lot of this doesn;t make sense to me - so here goes
Camera Model - Nikon D3000
F-Stop - f/4
Exposure - 1/30 sec
ISO - 800
Focal Length - 28mm
Does any of that make any sense?
-
Yep. Very good shot considering you were using F4 (small depth of field) & a relatively slow shutter speed 1/30.
Hopefully one of the more learned photographers will come in & make more educated observations, it's the best way for people like me to learn.
I wish I could have taken a shot like that.
-
It wasn't set up - it just happened
Lucky to get that - like that - light was low - which might explain some of the shutter behaviour - it was just after dawn
I'm not too fussed - it WILL happen
-
Low light would explain the shutter speed. All up, a brilliant photo.
-
THis one has been cropped - but was taken about 5min prior - you can see the flash in this, but also the darknes of the sky
[attachment deleted by admin]
-
Regarding the 'roo shot....
Well done Wokkie.... You have applied a technique for shooting fast moving objects, and that photo shows it quite well.
While first impressions would suggest it could have been sharper, considering the low light conditions, what you did capture was actually quite an achievement.
The technique you used was to 'track' the subject during the shot, effectively keeping the roo in the centre of your picture for all the time the shutter was open. This meant that the movement of the roo was minimal - as far as your camera capturing the image was concerned - so you were able to get a recognisable picture.
The reason why your action is so obvious, is that while the roo was relatively 'still' during the exposure, the background was whizzing past ... and you can see it streaking across the frame. This is the result often desired by photographers where racing or other speed related events are involved - since it gives a clear picture of the subject of interest, such as a racing car, but maintains the impression of 'speed' by the background streaking past.
The sharpness of the roo could have been improved by using the widest aperture available which will mean a higher shutter speed will be required for correct exposure. This would have reduced motion blur of everything in the frame, but considering the poor lighting, the background would quite likely still have quite noticeable 'streaking' whereas the roo would have been noticeably sharper. Opening up the lens one more 'stop' (going from f4 to f2.8) would have allowed a shutter speed of 1/60th and given a much better result. Two more stops (going to f2) would have allowed a shutter speed of 1/125th and you would have been quite thrilled about that result, I am sure. The lens you have fitted will determine whether these apertures are available or not.
With wider apertures, depth-of-field is reduced, but this would not have been a big problem if you were able to focus on the roo - since this was the only subject of any interest. It could actually add a little to the impression of 'speed' by making the background a little more blurry.
The other alternative would be to increase the ISO value. In the film days, the ISO number is an indication of the sensitivity of the film emulsion. A film with an ISO of 200 only requires half as much light to be properly exposed as a film with an ISO rating of 100. An ISO 400 film only requires half the light needed for an ISO 200 film or a quarter of the light that an ISO 100 film requires for a proper exposure. You will notice the progression here - 100, 200, 400, 800, 1600, etc. This mechanism has been transferred into the digital camera world quite effectively because the functions and limitations of both the film and electronic versions are almost identical.
The specs for your camera show it can go up to ISO 1600 - so you could have gained one extra stop by just changing that setting, but it also has something Nikon calls "Hi 1" which is equivalent to ISO 3200, apparently. This could have given you two stops without changing aperture, allowing a 1/125th second exposure time. If you used "Hi 1" AND could get two more stops wider aperture, you could have taken the shot at 1/500th - and the roo would have been frozen in mid air with the background just out of focus and not showing any signs of 'speed' as such.
But for an 'opportunity' shot like this - where you don't have time to get set up - you can be proud of the result.
-
Technical spot: ISO numbers - functions and limitations
As mentioned above, ISO numbers in photography relate to the 'sensitivity' of the medium that physically captures the image.
With the old style film, this was a measure of the sensitivity of the chemical emulsion to light. The more sensitive the emulsion, the less light it needs for proper exposure - and the higher the ISO number.
Due to the chemistry involved, those emulsions with higher speed ratings ended up not being able to capture as much detail and ended up having a 'grainy' appearance - looking as though the image was made up of grains of sand. The higher the speed rating (ISO number) the worse this was. Also, the larger a picture was 'blown up' the more apparent this grainy appearance became - so for a very high speed film with a big enlargement, the result did, indeed, look like a sand painting.
In the digital domain, however, the image sensor does not vary like this. It is what it is. However, a digital sensor still requires a certain number of photons for it to be pretty definite about the colour and brightness and so on of each and every pixel. That requires a certain amount of light - and to put a reference point on it, the same basic tests used to rate film emulsions are applied to digital cameras, which results in the ISO ratings which photographers are familiar with.
Now, if we halve the amount of light that gets to the sensor (by only allowing it half the time to collect it), we can compensate by multiplying the digital output of each pixel by 2 (one of the tricks you can do easily with digital electronics!) This gives us the same range of values as for our original setting, but a little less precise. Doing this one step allows you 'pretend' your ISO rating is now twice what it was ... and you can shoot accordingly.
We can keep on doing this - halving the amount of light and doubling the digital output - to increase our ISO ratings ... but we are getting less and less precise. As precision decreases, the effect called 'noise' increases. (I can explain how this works if anyone is interested - but just knowing it exists is enough for taking pictures)
When you look at a digital image with 'noise' the result is very similar to the film emulsion effect of 'grain'... and these both follow the increase in ISO speed ratings in the same way. As a result, 'film' photographers can shift into the digital arena and bring their understanding of ISO speed rating functions and limitations right along with them.
-
Excellent posts brums.......well explained and full of tips, even a novice will be able to follow them without any major dramas. You should now follow it up with digital "noise"..... ;D
Fast moving subjects are hard to capture and the photo of the roo is good for a first time effort. Like all things in life, practice makes perfect, so go out and take more shots.
For fast moving subjects e.g. sports etc....I use:
a) Nikon 85mm F:1.4 lens
b) ISO 600
c) Shutter speed 1/125
Cheers
-
nice pics Da.
You need in my opinion need to look at a hotshoe flash you can buy good ones for under $100 with a usable range of over 30 meters (can always turn down, bounce, or use diffuser from $10 )
http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.32980 (http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.32980)
I find sayno enloops the best rechargable batteries for flashes
If you look at cat you can see built in flash fadding quickly after a few meters. A hotshoe would take that out to 30 meters if you wanted and increase depth of field noticeable in cat tail.
Similarly the Roo motion would be frozen if subject within 30 meters with 28mm lens would be
-
I've got that flash Shyer & it does a great job on my Canon DSLR. The diffuser I got from you works very well with it.
I've never heard of sayno enloops batteries, where could I get them?
-
Hi ubbie,
Try here, often in big w or k mart and no post.
http://www.digitalcamerawarehouse.com.au/prod5384.htm (http://www.digitalcamerawarehouse.com.au/prod5384.htm)
The real advantage is shelf life some ni MHD can lose ALL charge within 6 weeks. Flash use I find irregular for most amatures. Flat battereis a lost oportunity.
-
Thanks Shyer.
I see the batteries come with a charger, good value considering they hold a charge much longer than the standard re-chargeables. I have found that standard rechargeables go flat after a few weeks just sitting in a cupboard, especially the cheap Asian ones .
-
Shyer. One more question about the batteries. will a normal charger (Ni-MH) charge these batteries? I found the batteries without a charger on Ebay.
-
nice pics Da.
..........
Similarly the Roo motion would be frozen if subject within 30 meters with 28mm lens would be
That picture was completely opportunistic - there was no way it could be set up and therefore no time for flashes or changing settings - that was a point and shot - as the settings were - not given a choice, it was all over in perhaps 10-30 seconds at the most.
I took a series of shots - that was the clearest
-
I know sweet Fanny Adams about photography Wokkie , but if it did interest me I reckon I would like to take shots like that one of your Roo .... spontaneous shots always look better , more interesting and natural to me than a contrieved set up .... even portraits/family shots etc , not a big fan of the 'ol smile for the camera stuff .... snap 'em when they least expect it for the more memorable piccies IMO
-
ubbie,
No not properly I have used other chargers to top up eneloops but always checked temp and multimeter voltage every 30 mins not a set and forget. All other chargers will, if not monitored overcook eneloops
I have two eneloop chargers and some 16 batteries. Buy one charger at least needed to get the 1000 recharges .
This ebay item looks OK 110557639360 the next OK is this 270605870519 there are LOTS of FAKES on ebay . You will pay $30 for 4 AA and charger at big W ect. and no post. deal extreme link I displayed earlier is HONEST china seller and they are $30 with charger and 4 AAs and $15 for 4 extra AAs.
-
Thanks Shyer. I'll have a look in Big W & KMart etc. I won't rush in.
-
That picture was completely opportunistic - there was no way it could be set up and therefore no time for flashes or changing settings - that was a point and shot - as the settings were - not given a choice, it was all over in perhaps 10-30 seconds at the most.I took a series of shots - that was the clearest
Hi da,
Once you are familar with flash you are set up in 10 seconds. Why do newspapers and professionals use flashes so Often? because it gets best results so often.
For your Roo I would have gone to manual settings, manual focus fastest in low light when practiced. I would have used flash and diffuser and manual set at ISO 100/ 400 depending on distance and f4/16 again depending on distance and left standard sync speed alone. And turned off any anti shake movement. That way, yes limited to flash recycle time in 20 secs should still get 4 shots even at 30 meters. Roo frozen clear by flash and background blur still there. The flash freezes movement as it fires for some thing like 1/1000 of a sec.
Also the batteries in hotshoe flash let camera batteries look after camera sensor and storage of image. Camera shots faster too. If subject at 10 meters set flash to 25% power and now about 20 shots in 20 seconds.
Photography has 3 rules, light quality/hue, light amount and light direction. For objects closer than 40 meters flashes open all sorts of shots as you control everything about the light. It always amuses me to see people spend $thousands extra on "best" lens and spend days on reserch.
And never learn flash basics in a few hours or buy a $100 basic flash kit, which will improve, much more than any thousadns $ spent elsewhere, on so many of their photos.
-
Shyer!!!!!!!! Shyer Shyer!!!!!!
When practiced! - I'd had the camera about 1 week (maybe 2), the light was poor - I only just figured out how to make the remote work, I will get there - but I need far more pratice and I'm not ashamed to admit it.
I'm hoping to get some alright shots, maybe some good shots, if I get another shot like that roo shot, I'd be thrilled, but that was a one in a million as far as I'm concerned.
I am slowly collecting all the bits and pieces, slowly but surely - I will get a flash - just takes time for me to figure out the one I want/need and then to actually buy it :D
Thanks everyone for the help!
-
I'm a beginner too Wocky. It all takes time. The people on OZRT post some pretty nifty advise & I've learnt from it.
-
I'm a beginner too Wocky. It all takes time. The people on OZRT post some pretty nifty advise & I've learnt from it.
Lots and lots of time - which I have had precious little of recently :(
Shyer - could you help please?
When buying a tripod. would a tilt pan head normally come fitted with a quick release plate, if no are they a univeral fit (doubt it) or are there basic shapes sizes etc?
Could you please advise?
Thanks
H
-
If I may ....
In my experience, quick release plates are not the norm for most photographers. Professional (as in TV station level) video cameras will, because time is of the essence - especially if a news crew is in a live action situation and need to move fast or miss a shot.
All other cameras will have a standard 1/4" Whitworth thread. This is universal for still and video cameras - and has been for, literally, decades.
About the only difference will be the actual screw itself. There are two types - a single screw where you have to tighten it to secure the camera and a screw with lock nut. I much prefer the lock nut - because you only screw the screw in until you just feel it 'touch' bottom and then you tighten using only the lock nut. Using the lock nut variety correctly will guarantee you will never put improper stress on the camera and that you will always get a firm, strong mount.
-
Hi Da,
What brumby has said, I refuse to use anything but a lock nut setup as while you may have a metal female thread on camera it is only glued or heat moulded in plastic of body. You when it happens want to break the $2 locknout not the $500 body. It will happen, you forget to fully lock a leg, the wind will blow your tripod over, or you will get bumped while using a flash stand off. The more use the more certainly it will happen.
I for begineers like mid price tripods or monopods, if you want more features find out what you use and then buy that model you can always sell the first tripod or use as a flash tripod ect.
I personally 90% of time travel with a cheapish monopod, smaller, lighter, faster and not a calamity if a car backs over it. If I do take a regular tripod in the field I only take the ones out with a carry hook. This is a hook that sits below the camera. I will hang about 5 kgs from that hook , bottom of weight less than 1 cm off ground best slightly off ground. This stabiles the tripod in breezes or light touches. If a heavy gust or knock comes that would topple tripod the weight hits ground and now a lot of force needed to completely knock over. The weight can be your camera bag, even a couple of supermarket bags with water in plastic bottles.
quick release plates are in fact slow if you mainly hand hold shot.
-
alright - quick release may not be the word I was looking for - but I have a tripod without a screw AND without a quick release plated, thus making it useless.
Paid a pittance for it and when I bought it the attention of the seller - here was her response:-
I did not advertise that there was a quick release plate included. These are sold separately I believe, at most camera stores for about $20? or so. I am sorry if you had any misunderstandings. Regards, XYZ
Now admittedly I did ask about the quick release plate - and not the screw - I'm wondering now if I've been sold a dud? - as I said small bikkies, but principle is the concern.
H
-
......Paid a pittance for it and when I bought it the attention of the seller -.......
There are many cheap china tripods out there see here.
http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.2518 (http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.2518)
click on photo of hand shows a "quick" release plate . Note price includes post from china worldwide for a 5 kg item by volume.
I suggest tripod like this some $45 Au posted.
http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.2504 (http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.2504)
Note locknut style head, carry handle , hook for weight.
Your pittance price tripod I would get a handyperson to get 25 mm length of 1/4 whitworth set screw and tap current tripod head. Screw into head , lock with nut so 6mm of thread sits out of head. Then mainly use that tripod for external flash or indoors.
-
The second one is the one I've got - paid under 1/2 for it - the ad read
Professional aluminum camera tripod with tilt pan head, smooth movements. Solid head. Will take either a dslr, or compact camera
This wording indicates to me that the tripod should arrive fully functional without need to 'add' anything to it to make it work.
I don't like dishonest sellers - hell I don't like dishonest people.
I get the feeling that with the response I've already had to my question and the wording of the ad - that I'm right and she's hoping I'll just go away - only a junior seller - 85 items, I might see what happens if I push the envelope - the product itself is not fit for use UNLESS I buy something else to make it work and the ad no way in any form indicated this
-
Da,
I see only 2 chocies either return item for refund pay post $10/30 plus reg or demand refund and extra for postal amount if return wanted or neg feedback. There is actually a good chance the seller has no idea the quick release plate is missing or its function. Most people are not tripod users.
I am not a fan of cheap unit, quick release plates. They look good in shop and most sale staff in harvey norman or big W are not tripod uses either. Only a specialist camera store can give that service.
The quick release plates are the "new" gimmick in cheap units. The problem is the components are all cast plastic, the tolerence is lose , plastic wears easily , plastic is soft compared to expensive magnesium. While thiey look fast and easy to use in a shop. They wear out quickly plate is fiddly and needs a tool to use in field, the worst problem is no lock nut. That Problem explained before.
here is locknut tripod
http://www.digitalcamerawarehouse.com.au/prod3388.htm (http://www.digitalcamerawarehouse.com.au/prod3388.htm)
Or this is a reasonable quick plate for the price. Note enameled metal plate is also a manfrotto copy / interchangeable, thus expensive parts available. I still prefer locknuts though.
http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.15247#open full view (http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.15247#open full view)
There are millions of good old locknut near new tripods out there the problem is finding
-
There is a virtual smorgrasboard of tripods/monopods on sale.Often, I see people who do not blink an eyelid when it comes to buying cameras or lenses and yet skim when it comes to buying good support for your gear.
I use a four sectional Sirui M1004 tripod with a 10 kg carrying load, well constructed it can be assembled to be used as a monopod as well.
Priced at approximately $200, it is not excessive and is cmparable to branded ones like Silk or Velbon ($500+)
-
I've never heard of sayno enloops batteries, where could I get them?
Sanyo just released new version.
http://www.photoreview.com.au/news/productnews/sanyo-releases-new-eneloop-batteries.aspx (http://www.photoreview.com.au/news/productnews/sanyo-releases-new-eneloop-batteries.aspx)
Note old charger still compatiable but I would not want to be paying full retail for now superseded batteries.
-
Just did a little updating of my product knowledge (must get out of the cave a bit more)....
Seems 'quick release' has become a marketing feature ... but its value for a camera user is questionable. I might suggest if you don't know you need it, you probably don't.
Build quality on mechanisms like this is so important for stable, secure and reliable operation - I shudder at the idea of a 'cheap' version. Shyer gives a good list of the concerns.
Besides, when you affix such a mounting plate to most cameras I've encountered, you can't use the camera case. Not comfortable with the idea of having a camera hanging on my shoulder without protection ... and if you remove the plate so you can fit the case, it kinda challenges the concept of "quick".
-
Opinion (again)
Here is the ad:- “Professional aluminum camera tripod with tilt pan head, smooth movements. Solid head. Will take either a dslr, or compact camera”
Here is the response to my - not as described email:- "I am sorry that you were mistaken – I was selling a tripod, as advertised, as per the photos in the ad."
Note the photo is this (It certainly IMPLIES) both the wording AND pictures that a functional, fully operational tilt pan head IS offered with thos tripod.
Your thoughts?
[attachment deleted by admin]
-
Just did a little updating of my product knowledge (must get out of the cave a bit more)....
Seems 'quick release' has become a marketing feature ... but its value for a camera user is questionable. I might suggest if you don't know you need it, you probably don't.
Build quality on mechanisms like this is so important for stable, secure and reliable operation - I shudder at the idea of a 'cheap' version. Shyer gives a good list of the concerns.
Besides, when you affix such a mounting plate to most cameras I've encountered, you can't use the camera case. Not comfortable with the idea of having a camera hanging on my shoulder without protection ... and if you remove the plate so you can fit the case, it kinda challenges the concept of "quick".
Brum6y - my camera spends 99% of it's time in the case and not just hanging loose around my shoulder - that too makes me shudder - I could go head of T*** at anytime! (Yes - seriously)
So I have a general interest in keeping the camera safe and sound in a camera bag! ;)
-
Woky. To the best of my knowledge all tripods come with either a quick release plate or ball head joint. I have 3 tripods and they are all complete with plates.
I believe you were sold an incomplete tripod. Perhaps the seller didn't know any better,but you believed you were buying a fully functional tripod & you didn't receive a fully functional tripod.
Different brands of tripods have different size plates & I'm not even sure ifr you can but a plate on it's own.
I'd be getting back to the seller & telling him it's incomplete & therefore non functional.
-
for what I paid - ain;t worth argueing - I tried to communicate - you saw the result - she claims she's right - so negative feedback left :(
I DID try to avoid - but she was determined that she was selling tripod ONLY - even when using the words "Professional aluminum camera tripod with tilt pan head"
I tried to communicate - you saw her response :(
So now - the lies will bite her in the butt - I can post full emails - but I won't waste the space :(
-
Woky. I just looked at the listing & the written description is misleading. The seller said she tested it, how could she test it without a plate?
-
I could argue thru paypal - but I know she'll want it back (as is deserved) and I;m not prepared to send back
So negative feedback - she made it quite clear in the email - send it back and I;ll refund - so negative comment :(
There should be a limit (dollar) as to when a product should/should not be sent back - but as it's my decision - NOT to send back - I have NO RIGHT to ask for a refund - so I leave negative feedback instead
-
I could argue thru paypal - I have NO RIGHT to ask for a refund - so I leave negative feedback instead....
May I suggest,
limit thee thou rightfull anger,
as nearly always, many options.
A few years ago I purchased a laptop on ebay from a dealer "tested to boot" . received "item"
The battery was dead not one second of charge, The touch pad was fluid damaged the hard drive was US.
The seller offers 1/2 of battery cost no HDD or touch pad or labour or postage, in fact rude. I took a punt and bought parts not knowing other possiable problems that migth have existed.
And I started not as described in paypal, and was told to send item back. So I did............. the bad battery HDD and damaged touch pad all fitted in a $6 prepaid paid bag. I registered and sent bad parts back. I got a full refund less post and parts cost. the seller complained for months.
I just said do not screw with me.
You could have sent in a $6 registered bag the packing materials you got.
-
too long - would have to be sent as parcel - and that is $12-$13 just as normal mail - NOT registered - so she can keep the money and the negative feedback - I'll keep the tripod - maybe I can find another 'head' somewhere?
Who knows - but I'd rather throw it out than send it back (as I said paid little for it) - than have someone else ripped off.
She'll scream soon - I suspect by close of business of Monday ;)
-
Hi da
paypal is stupid. The $6 prepaid bag is a parcel with their spectacles on. weight and size is too complicated
seller would scream more with 100% refund and bad feed back
-
yeah but won't get postage back
You are most welcome to send the tripod back to me and I will refund you, less postage.
So I reckon she'll scream more with the negative - maybe I'm too docile
-
This line completely kills her arguments...
Will take either a dslr, or compact camera
Since the standard mounting mechanism for a DSLR or Compact camera is a 1/4" Whitworth female thread - just show me where there is a 1/4" Whitworth screw for a camera to be secured.
(Answer: It's going to be on the mounting plate which is probably still attached to the last camera that was on it.)
-
When I bid on it - I saw all that - and thought brilliant -and then after I won the auction I thought - hang on I can;t see a thread.
Looked at the photo - saw the 'head' and thought - no it's okay.
Then it was slow to turn up - but that was explained by MY post office. acutally arrived on the 6th - but got put in the wrong hole - the sender has the same surname as a large local family.
I got it home and checked it and that was when email war started.
As I said - I could file with PP - but to acheive what? - mmore money spent on postage?
I'm not throwing good money after bad - she can wear the neg
-
Playing around with abstracts, C&C please.. ;D
(http://www.boomspeed.com/mugarinya1/Black_N_White_1.jpg)
-
Hmmmmm... Can't really say I'm a great 'judge' or one for offering critiques, but I'll throw in my thoughts.
This is all JMHO...
B&W - quite effective and suits the stark nature of the trees. Upon close inspection of the tree trunks, texture information is indistinguishable from JPEG artefacts, but it's all so close to black level it doesn't matter anyway. Quite simply, for the casual viewer, the trees are in silhouette. I have always liked effective silhouettes and this one works for me. Another thought is that, with the composition of this image, there is a question as to whether the trees are in silhouette or are just black trees - charred perhaps.
Another thing that appeals to me is the contrast between the sharp focus of the trees and the (seemingly) soft focus of the background (clouds? - or have you been fiddling? ;) )
The areas of light and shade are balanced and the histogram is excellent.
As for an artistic interpretation .... this is not my strong suit ... but since it's presented as an 'abstract', I might offer this thought... the white area in the lower centre-right gives me an impression of a spirit leaving the main tree (heading off to the right of frame) which highlights the lifelessness of the black and barren branches.
B&W photography can provide an additional dramatic element, which, IMHO, it does here - and quite well.
Hope that is of some use to you...
-
Hi Coin ,
I really like the composition of the shot and it imparts to me strong feelings of starkness and lonelyness .
I do wonder if the background has a more out of focus look than I would like.
-
Hi Brumbs/Shyer,
Many thanks for the comments.
To a certain degree, you are both right in some of the thoughts that were in my mind when I was composing the shot.
This tree was one of the few that was spared by a bush fire where everything else was burnt to a cinder. With all the smoke and smog, the apparition of a departing spirit was created from just the right amount of light shining through the smog and clouds overhead.
Cheers
-
Coins. Top photo, I love the tree.
I tried to post one of my photos but I got this message;
"The upload folder is full. Please try a smaller file and/or contact an administrator".
I reduced the photo down to about 84 KB's and still got the same message.
It's got me beat how to post photos here now. I didn't have problems in the past with bigger photos.
-
Can it be the limitation imposed by your photo hoisting service ?
I use boomspeed with a generous 1 gig limitation.
-
From what I understand, the photo loader is a part of this forum and has a limited amount of space allocated. Admin will need to either clear out some old stuff or increase the size of the allocation.
I have advised Admin - but they aren't well, so I won't be jumping up and down about it.
In the mean time, you can still link to Photobucket type accounts - which is what I've done in the past to show pics when this happens. That still works - it's just that is more of a pain.
-
I'vbe been mucking arolund with Photoshop Elements 8. A while back I picked up a photography magazine with a free DVD.
I finally got around to watching the DVD & what ya know, some stuff to do with layers fell into place. I can now lighten shadows to show more features etc, ripper.
-
You know how it goes Birdie............when all else fails,,,,,read the instructions!
Westie :ivanhoe:
-
Yep your right Westy. Unfortunately I watch the video then open Photoshop import a photo & forget all the steps so, back to the video & watch again.
tomorrow I'll have forgotten what I did.
I just dragged a pink flower & put it on a solid grey background. Wish I rememered how I did it.
-
I am so glad someone else is like me...lol
I am "oh so clever " ......once!!!!
I am sure if I did it 6-7 times in succession then it would be firmly implanted. Trouble is
I am just not devoting enough time to the learning process...though you wouldn't think that from all the posts I have been doing lately....but it is raining so it is time to play silly buggars and waste time...pity I didn't put it to good use!!!! Time on the computer is a fun thing for me...I don't need it one iota for my line of work,,,,handy but don't need it!
*wondering if "I am" is a key phrase here*.......lol
-
here are some amazing shots by a young fellow named Erik Johansson , I received an email with some of these plus some different ones
http://www.toxel.com/inspiration/2009/03/13/photo-manipulations-by-erik-johansson/
http://www.google.com.au/images?hl=en&rlz=1R2DVXE_enAU348&q=erik+johansson&um=1&ie=UTF-8&source=univ&ei=JmVWTNagHo6qvQOj2pwZ&sa=X&oi=image_result_group&ct=title&resnum=4&ved=0CDAQsAQwAw
-
WOW !!!!! Thanks for sharing smee.... ;D
-
(http://funlok.info/2010/08/Bullet-Hitting-Different-Objects-010.jpg)
bullet shot through banana ............only killed the riboflavins no real fruit was hurt during this stunt
-
bullet through spam
(http://funlok.info/2010/08/Bullet-Hitting-Different-Objects-004.jpg)
-
through a carrot
(http://funlok.info/2010/08/Bullet-Hitting-Different-Objects-009.jpg)
-
just before it hit light globe
(http://funlok.info/2010/08/Bullet-Hitting-Different-Objects-005.jpg)
just after
(http://funlok.info/2010/08/Bullet-Hitting-Different-Objects-006.jpg)
-
(I think you need to take the lens cap off.....)
-
Hey smee......all I see are just red crosses ;D
-
Opinion from all you photographers who are wiser than me. Has anyone used one of these for Macro photography?
It's a 4 way Macro Shot Focusing Rail Slider it mounts to a tripod & the camers is mounted on it. It allows for very fine adjustment, camera back & forward when in manual focus.
[attachment deleted by admin]
-
Looks like something that would bolt to a Barret 50 ?...
-
I've not used one Ubb, but I can see it would be excellent for precision focussing and framing - as long as the subject did not move at all. Tripods, even with good quality pan/tilt heads are somewhat of a challenge to get in exactly the right spot, if you're getting very particular about a shot. This unit would allow you to get 'pretty close' with tripod positioning and then have full control as you creep to the exact position you want the camera to be in.
I would expect it would be useless for any nature photography unless the subject was rigidly fixed and with no air movement.
Could be great for coin photography and the like, especially if the camera's auto-focus could not lock onto the focus point you want.
However, someone else might have some practical experience they can share.
But just be careful about what gadgets you get. My father ended up with 4 gadget bags ... and I had 2 - both of us had overflow. The gear can get pretty heavy carting it around. This item I would probably keep as studio equipment, but ....
... keep asking questions. (I know I've learned a couple of things on this thread). Knowledge will allow you to bend all the 'rules' and create your own works.
-
Yes Ubbie :)
I have one like that and it is BRILLIANT.
You can take it apart and reassemble it in different configurations to make it even more useful.
Before you buy one, shop around, I got mine at 1/4 the price of the original one I saw, I got it on eBay but I cant remember what I paid for it now, if my memory serves me correctly it was around the $50 bracket including postage, some places wanted $150 or more.
I'll see if I can dig up where I got it from and the cost
-
http://cgi.ebay.com.au/4-Way-Macro-Focusing-Slide-Rail-Canon-Nikon-Pentax-/320449156116?pt=Lens_Accessories
http://cgi.ebay.com.au/Macro-Focusing-Slide-Rail-Caon-Nikon-Pentax-cameras-/280361712787?pt=Lens_Accessories
-
Thanks Poddy, I've whacked both those listings on my Ebay watching list.
-
Shyer. I presume the camera is mounted on a tripod & the bellows just mounts on the camera then the lense mounts to the front of the bellows. Have I got that right?
-
Look At nikon unit in link click on photo showing bottom . The bellows mounts to tripod and body on back of bellows and lens on frount.
Usually used with something like a fixed 50 / 100 mm manual lens F1.2 /1.8 or so. Also used with reversing ring for ultra macro ( now lens is reverse mounted) you have two adjustments the focus ring on lens and bellows length.
For focusing a tape measure often helps to get right small area on lens focus to start. The bellows can be hand held when using flash outdoors with smaller lens is still light weight
-
Thought I'd share what I'd been up too and with Shyer's help :) (thank-you) The Hi-1 speed setting on my Nikon is BRILLIANT to say the least!
http://itaintalwaysmylife.blogspot.com/search/label/Photos
Noting that anything pre-August has NOT been taken with the Nikon - but still worthwhile sharing
I'll be updating every Sunday if anyone is interested
Thank-you everyone for the help (and phone-calls) really really appreciated (and you know what?) Has made me get out and about, which is not as easy as I make it out to be!
Thanks
-
Wokie. Did you take those bee photo's? They are excellent. I reckon bees are hard to photograph as they don't stay still for long. You got the bees in flight which would be even harder than if they were planted on the flower collecting the pollen.
-
I can't open page 21. What has happened?
-
I see my comment has posted on page 21 (topic summary preview) but, I still can't open it.
I don't have this problem with any other thread.
-
Yes we can!!!
-
I know I've missed a couple - but here's what I could grab. (I should have copied before I started - sorry folks. Will see if there is another way to get to the missing ones...)
Posted on: Today at 03:38:08 PMPosted by: *Brum6y*
Yes we can!!!
Posted on: Today at 03:37:00 PMPosted by: *Brum6y*
page?
Posted on: Today at 03:36:49 PMPosted by: *Brum6y*
new
Posted on: Today at 03:36:38 PMPosted by: *Brum6y*
a
Posted on: Today at 03:36:28 PMPosted by: *Brum6y*
onto
Posted on: Today at 03:36:16 PMPosted by: *Brum6y*
it
Posted on: Today at 03:36:03 PMPosted by: *Brum6y*
force
Posted on: Today at 03:35:51 PMPosted by: *Brum6y*
can
Posted on: Today at 03:35:38 PMPosted by: *Brum6y*
we
Posted on: Today at 03:35:29 PMPosted by: *Brum6y*
if
Posted on: Today at 03:35:17 PMPosted by: *Brum6y*
wonder
Posted on: Today at 03:34:56 PMPosted by: *Brum6y*
I
Posted on: Today at 12:02:03 PMPosted by: shyer
testing
Posted on: August 30, 2010, 08:16:39 PMPosted by: *Ubbie Max*
I see my comment has posted on page 21 (topic summary preview) but, I still can't open it.
I don't have this problem with any other thread.
Posted on: August 30, 2010, 08:12:45 PMPosted by: *Ubbie Max*
I can't open page 21. What has happened?
Posted on: August 30, 2010, 06:54:46 PMPosted by: da_ewok
Ubber - they're ALL mine - took me hours (in weak sunshine!) and I actully enjoyed it
it also took over 1200 shots to get those 7-8 photos - but every one was worth it for those!
Posted on: August 30, 2010, 06:34:25 PMPosted by: *Ubbie Max*
Wokie. Did you take those bee photo's? They are excellent. I reckon bees are hard to photograph as they don't stay still for long. You got the bees in flight which would be even harder than if they were planted on the flower collecting the pollen.
Posted on: August 30, 2010, 06:25:01 PMPosted by: da_ewok
Thought I'd share what I'd been up too and with Shyer's help (thank-you) The Hi-1 speed setting on my Nikon is BRILLIANT to say the least!
http://itaintalwaysmylife.blogspot.com/search/label/Photos
Noting that anything pre-August has NOT been taken with the Nikon - but still worthwhile sharing
I'll be updating every Sunday if anyone is interested
Thank-you everyone for the help (and phone-calls) really really appreciated (and you know what?) Has made me get out and about, which is not as easy as I make it out to be!
Thanks
Posted on: August 26, 2010, 11:56:37 AMPosted by: shyer
Look At nikon unit in link click on photo showing bottom . The bellows mounts to tripod and body on back of bellows and lens on frount.
Usually used with something like a fixed 50 / 100 mm manual lens F1.2 /1.8 or so. Also used with reversing ring for ultra macro ( now lens is reverse mounted) you have two adjustments the focus ring on lens and bellows length.
For focusing a tape measure often helps to get right small area on lens focus to start. The bellows can be hand held when using flash outdoors with smaller lens is still light weight
Posted on: August 26, 2010, 11:40:51 AMPosted by: *Ubbie Max*
Shyer. I presume the camera is mounted on a tripod & the bellows just mounts on the camera then the lense mounts to the front of the bellows. Have I got that right?
-
I went back through my 'PROFILE' and looked at my 'last posts' (down near the bottom of the page) and found one I made that's on the zombie page. (seems a fitting term - and I daresay Tello would vote for it.)
August 26, 2010, 03:10:38 AM
I've not used one Ubb, but I can see it would be excellent for precision focussing and framing - as long as the subject did not move at all. Tripods, even with good quality pan/tilt heads are somewhat of a challenge to get in exactly the right spot, if you're getting very particular about a shot. This unit would allow you to get 'pretty close' with tripod positioning and then have full control as you creep to the exact position you want the camera to be in.
I would expect it would be useless for any nature photography unless the subject was rigidly fixed and with no air movement.
Could be great for coin photography and the like, especially if the camera's auto-focus could not lock onto the focus point you want.
However, someone else might have some practical experience they can share.
But just be careful about what gadgets you get. My father ended up with 4 gadget bags ... and I had 2 - both of us had overflow. The gear can get pretty heavy carting it around. This item I would probably keep as studio equipment, but ....
... keep asking questions. (I know I've learned a couple of things on this thread). Knowledge will allow you to bend all the 'rules' and create your own works.
I've put it here to show they can be retrieved - so if you have a post you'd like to keep visible, you can do it that way. Make sure you include the timestamp, so if things get out of whack, you can work through the posts in order if you really want.
We just have to warn people of the ZOMBIE PAGE!
-
What's going on? This is now a one page thread. Did I/we buggger the thread up that severely?
-
Ubbie, I'm trying to fix the problem by splitting the thread in an attempt to find what's causing the problem.
SO far, lots of splits and no culprit owning up!
-
Thanks Countess. There are a number of excellent photographs within the thread (Coinfussious macro shots especially) I'd hate to see lost to the OZRT world.
-
Well, I think I know which post caused the problem, but I've no idea at all WHY.
I've done my best to isolate the problem and delete it.
-
Oke Doke Countess. What was the problem, don't keep us in suspense.
I think it was the Taliban infiltrating, it is their style.
I'm ready with the Barrett 50 cal to take a few (or many) out when required, just give me the word.
-
It was a simple reply by Wokie. It looked completely harmless. It seemed like an innocent post...
-
Crikey ....if its gonna reject simple replies a number of us wont be able to post anymore
-
Don't panic Wokkie. My intelligence sources advise me that you are not a member of the Taliban, I won't come gunning for you with the Barrett 50 cal.
Besides, no one who has done as much for the community as Wokkie has would entertain the idea of signing up with the Taliban, or any other crazy organization.
-
It was a simple reply by Wokie. It looked completely harmless. It seemed like an innocent post...
See IT WAS ME!
But important matters asie, YES Ubber I did take those photos - you'll seriously have to watch my blog - I have the urge to post some more photos tonight ;)
so heads up
My apologies to everyone for upsetting the thread - I think the post that disappeared went along these lines
Yes Ubber I did take those photos, and it wouldn;t have been possible without Shyer's help and phone calls. Advising me what to do and not to do and show me a few little tricks!
Seriously
So thanks Shyer - :kisshug:
-
Shes a witch ...........................burn her !!!
-
You mean a wooden Wokkie ?????
Does she float? What else floats?
-
ummmmmmmmmmmm very small stones
-
Wokkie I have just had a look and they are great photos, very enjoyable.
Glad I wasn't around when you "broke " the thread.........too confusing just reading the post afterwards......lol
-
Wokkie I have just had a look and they are great photos, very enjoyable.
Glad I wasn't around when you "broke " the thread.........too confusing just reading the post afterwards......lol
But it wasn't me I swear *crosses heart* <-- well that's what I'm told anyway
yeah - they are good photos, thanks for the feedback - if you keep and eye out there, I've already set up 10-12 posts to automatic posts on Sundays - might post others
But it was only due to Shyers help that any of this was possible - Thanks Shyer!
-
......Thank-you everyone for the help (and phone-calls) really really appreciated (and you know what?) Has made me get out and about, which is not as easy as I make it out to be!....
Thank you da for the photos, it is the best thanks seeing any one enjoying being creative. I particularlly liked the bees no 5 and 6 and last. The composition is great with real feel of movement. They are all excellent action shots different people will like different shots.
For reference all cameras like yours record the camera settings . It is good to keep those with the photos as well as comments like winter 2010, early morning. Distance from subject, flash angle / diffuser / bounce / place, all the details the camera does not record . Some details you will need to keep private. However after thousands of photos none of us can remember all the details from years ago. It does help you re achieve results you are looking for years later.
-
Shyer, I completely agree with the record keeping - you'll see in later photos - I've listed the camera and also the date (20100901)
Some other photos that I posted people were giving me feedback that is was too much infomation, so I've keopt it simple from the next post onwards
Thanks for the tips!
-
What sort of cameras are you using Shyer & Wockie?
I use a Canon EOS 550D, I've also got a Panasonic Lumix FZ35 .
-
I have a Nikon D3000 with a macro lens - not sure of the ratios - but I love my husband for getting it for me
(It also has the standard lens)
I also use a tripod for low light situations, which makes ensures that blurring doesn't occur.
I wanted to show you one I took the other night in low light - but can;t get it to load :(
This link MAY work - Yfrog is having a hissy fit http://yfrog.com/mx9brj
No promises if it doesn't work - but won't hurt to try
PS - my hubby is THE BEST - he found (on the side of the road outside the factory, in a pile of rubbish) a hama tripod - been loved, but worked brilliantly! <-- I love him!
-
my basketball teammates used to call me tripod
-
Big Red...................... YUM!!!!
Whoops did I say that ???
-
my basketball teammates used to call me tripod
:mum:
The :duckling:
:hot: :turkey: :beerontap:
-
Big Red...................... YUM!!!!
Whoops did I say that ???
Eastern Grey actually - it was just past midnight and I'd been out late taking photos of the moon (yeah I know) He just sat there - so I thought on the way back in I'd take a shot. The red of flash and also the inside light probably made him turn a little red. But he is more grey that red!
Big boy though!
-
What sort of cameras are you using Shyer & Wockie?
I use a Canon EOS 550D, I've also got a Panasonic Lumix FZ35 .
Ubbie I use pentax bodies K20 and K10 (badged samsung) and some 20 lens regulary, even a lot of over 18 year olds I do allow to touch my DSLR kit. For ebay snaps I use nikon coolpix 8800 with diffussed external flash and fiji hs10 for family use ect. photos. I also use sony X10 phone if no camera with me which has the best phone camera I have yet seen 8mp and good lens.
All the majors produce good material in their price brackets.
I use pentax, as for decades I had access to cheap bodies and with underwater housings, cold water and hot boats . Condensation is always a problem let alone water splashes and salt air corrosion. At one stage damaging beyond repair a SLR firm body every 3 months. I also became an expert at saving them
I am also used to my lens, and ones kept, many no longer in production. Do not want to experiment with new lens to find my choice again.
-
Coins, Shyer, Brum6y et al
What do you think of this type of setup for macro. It's a lot cheaper than buying a dedicated Macro lense.
[attachment deleted by admin]
-
Now there's an interesting question! Each have their own peculiarities and applications.
What is common is that they allow close-ups.
I know there will probably be a few holes in this - but here's my 2 cents.....
Extension tubes:
- are comparatively inexpensive
- can be used on any of your standard lenses, fixed or zoom.
- for the really critical situation, there may be aberrations in the lens being used that are minor when used in its standard configuration, but are magnified when used on extension tubes. (explanation available, if interested)
- focus range is narrowed which means you may have to try different combinations of tubes to get your subject in the frame and be able to focus.
- light reaching the film/sensor is reduced, so exposure is affected. If you have TTL (through-the-lens) metering in the camera, this is less of an issue, however each extension tube will alter the effective aperture (the f-number), so fully automatic exposure control (if possible) will require connections from the lens to the camera (such as is visible in your pic) and perhaps some compensation settings (exactly what you would need to do here - if anything - will be specific to the equipment you have)
Dedicated macro lens:
- can be expensive
- are designed for optimal image quality
- have focus and exposure functions handled as normal
There's a lot more on the subject, but others will have better experience with particular setups and equipment ... particularly with the products that are out in the marketplace - their cost and how well they perform.
... but having both in your kit is not absurd in the slightest.
Other options for close-up work:
* Add-on close-up lenses. These just fit onto the front of a regular lens in the same way as a filter. You can get single element ones (which are pretty ordinary) or twin element ones that are better corrected. Magnification is expressed in 'diopters' with the range of choice set by manufacturers and limited by the lens size, just like filters. Personally, if you're serious, I'd steer clear.
* Reversing rings. Yep - simply mount your lens backwards. Does the job, but you will need to be a bit more involved in a couple of things.
* A bellows. This is like a continuously variable extension tube with that folded concertina style bit in between front and rear mounts. A little bigger to use and I'm not sure what's available that allows communication between lens and body, but it means you don't have to swap around combinations of extension tubes to get a frame filled and subject in focus.
I'm sure I've forgotten something ...
-
Hi Ubbie,
On page two of this topic I near middle of page give a link demonstrating these tubes. I agree with brumby they are cheap and light but they do have limitations.
The simple answer for me , mostly underwater macro where time, set up before hand needed, tripod not an option and bad light is always a problem. Thus handheld and need to be setup for all variables.
For most people I first suggest the Raynox macro lens filters (PM me if you want to chat about buying) They fit 95% of most peoples lens and allow you to experiment get good results at under $100 each and very saleble if you wish to move on. Light and portable. As well as a medium external power flash and diffuser.
Then a dedicated marco lens, then tubes and bellows if you still need more and other specialist equipment.
Learn to walk so you know what type shoe fits
-
G'day Shyer. I got a set of Raynox lenses, the 150 & 250. They do a good job. I got these based on your post very early in the life of this thread.
I'm always looking for stuff to make the photos better, perhaps developing my skills is the solution.
I can get the tubes (pictured above) for about A$80 (Ebay).
I can also get the Sigma 150 macro lense (recommended by Coins) for about $750.
Maybe I should get the lot.
-
get a couple of each Birdie in case you lose or break one ... it always pays to have a spare ...
-
Ubbie the OZ dollar is at a 5 year high.
Since you are using canon I would buy this can not go wrong high dollar and no GST (gillard services Tax) Dont ask
http://www.adorama.com/US%20%20%20%20404828.html
1 to 5 macro and and a top quality small lens
-
Thanks for all the advise Brum6y & Shyer & of course Smee.
I've just spent an hour reading every post in this thread. It was worth every minute of it. There is so much sound advise.
I think I'll buy every bit of equipment that's been recommended. I'll cut the Commander In Chiefs housekeeping for a few months, she won't notice.
-
is there any reason why the CIC couldnt get another job ?
-
Yeah Smee, good thinking. I wonder if there are any vacancies down the coal mines, I hear one of the Pit Ponies died.
-
I took the plunge & bought the Sigma APO 150mm f2.8 EX DG Macro HSM Lense.
I got it for A$721 including Fed EX.
It's a very good price, cheaper than the cheapest price I could find on Ebay.
I got it from here, https://www.dwidigitalcameras.com.au/store/product.asp?idProduct=1381
-
A great lens at a very good price......one you will have a lot of fun with when you have mastered it's capabilities.
Post us some of your macros taken with this lens......make sure you have a good tripod....LOL
-
Definitely agree on the tripod!
Also useful - especially for a critically set up shot - is a remote shutter release. In the old days this was a cable release (end they still work) but with modern cameras and electronics you can have remote controls.
The idea of these is to eliminate the physical movement of the camera that always happens when the shutter release button is pressed. If you are really, really, really, really good, this movement can be very small - but you can never eliminate it - unless the pressing action is 'off camera'.
-
I've got a plug into the camera cable shutter release but I don't have a remote one. I better look into it.
-
Coins, Brum6y, Shyer et al
What sort of flash setup do you use when taking macro photos?
-
I've got a plug into the camera cable shutter release but I don't have a remote one. I better look into it.
It doesn't really matter which one you have - any of the alternatives of 'off camera' button options will do the job.
Coins, Brum6y, Shyer et al
What sort of flash setup do you use when taking macro photos?
Another good question. This can be trickier to answer, since the subject and situation can dictate what will or won't work.
I'll leave this to those who've got the practical experience here - that's what you need on this one.
-
Elimination of any vibration is important in any set macro photography, I am so pedantic about this that I even lock up the mirror that reflects the image of your subject to your TFT screen. This mirror swings up and down and causes vibration when the shutter buton is depressed.
With a locked mirror, you will have to use the eye piece view finder as you will not see anything on your TFT screen. The only time I use the TFT screen is for reviewing shots I have taken.
Not sure whether I have explained this clearly, perhaps brums or shyer can explain it better.... ;D
-
:welcomedesk:
hello triple 8
-
Indeed! Coinfucious is quite right - and with really critical shots, locking the mirror up is one more thing you can do reduce vibration.
Just as a quick illustration, here is a basic diagram of your typical SLR camera, with the viewfinder looking through the actual lens, by means of the pentaprism and the mirror.
(http://t2.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:ANd9GcQy-y7cDk2T5ds_CejN5QCq8WP38gFGmtcaz-o7C7GajA2aViw&t=1&usg=__otkRTKsbmf44Aay1FzZUIj0KOWA=)
To take the shot, the mirror is hinged (top right) and is flipped up out of the way before the exposure is taken. It then drops back. You will see this through the viewfinder as a quick 'blink'.
But this mirror has weight (not a lot - but enough) and WILL cause a minor amount of vibration through the whole camera. The fact that you will often hear a mirror flip up and down (in amongst other sounds) is proof in itself - since sound IS vibration!
If you are using a good lens, especially at a long focal length, this tiny amount of vibration can be enough to make the difference between a good shot - or - a spectacularly crisp, razor sharp, high definiton shot!
Shorter exposure times or electronic flash can minimise this (as with any motion related problems).
The effect of mirror movement vibration is not very much - and in most normal shooting is completely ignorable - but in some of those really delicate situations, it can be the difference between a 99% effort and a 100% effort.
-
Coins & Brum6y. I understand, I can lock the mirror up on my camera.
I'll give it a go.
-
Just remember your through-the-lens viewfinder won't work while the mirror is up.
-
Hey Ubbie.....a few photos taken by this lens...... ;D
(http://www.boomspeed.com/mugarinya1/Butterfly_11.jpg)
(http://www.boomspeed.com/mugarinya1/Rhinocerous_Bettle.jpg)
and finally, a link to a critical very high resolution set macro shot of a 1862 Gold Mohur Coin....
http://www.boomspeed.com/mugarinya1/1862_Gold_Mohur_O-1.jpg (http://www.boomspeed.com/mugarinya1/1862_Gold_Mohur_O-1.jpg)
Cheers..... ;D
-
While mirror lock ups and tripods and remote release all have their uses especially in studio or indoors. For macro I use flash whenever I can as I then control the light tempreture(colour), amount and direction of light AND I freeze ALL movement for the few micro seconds the flash is transmitting light, vibration , movement no longer an issue even depth of field and low ISO is helped with flash.
For macro you can not go past a ring flash discussed earlier in this topic. However most people can not afford a range of flashes. Ring flashes are body and lens size dependant. Also diffusers are not practicle and they are still on same axis as lens which causes many new problems.
I suggest as a start point, 1 / 2 hotshoe flash/s with diffuser. Best if mounted on camera bar to get off axis flash to lens. Even a high power and a low power either side of camera. Radio control remote cheap flashes are available. Hot shoe also useable with normal lens as well and all gear is hand held
-
Beautiful photos Coins. Do know what the camera settings were & how far away from the beetle & butterfly the front of the lense was?
I assume you used a flash & a tripod.
Thanks for the advise Shyer, I'll look at various flashes. A page or three back is a picture of a macro flash setup I was considering, it is listed on Ebay.
The Ring Flashes listed on Ebay all have a maximum filter thread size of 67mm. The Sigma 150 has filter threadf size of 72mm.
-
I think I posted on the wrong camera thread so I've posted here as well.
Coins, Shyer, Brum6y et al
The Sigma 150 Macro lense arrived this afternoon. I whacked it on the camera (after reading the instructions which is rare for me) & took some shots an different setting and at different distances.
I took them hand held at various speeds down to about 1/30. The photos came out excellent considering it is a bit breezy & the light was going. I'm amazed at quality considering the hand held & slow shutter speeds. I even took one of Winston the cat in half light about 10 metres away & it came out.
I'll download a couple of photos later & post them here.
Now I better get a set of 4-Way Macro Focusing Slide Rails & one of those miniature Gorilla type tripods with a ball head & a set of flashes for Macro.
I wonder what else I need, any suggestions?
-
Here we go. A flower stament about a quarter of an inch long. Hand held shot about a metre away. I cropped the photo.
ps. Don't worry about the poor quality, there was breeze & I took the photos hand held
[attachment deleted by admin]
-
Here's Winston, the big slob!
[attachment deleted by admin]
-
This is a small Trout fly I tied. Again the camera was hand held about 45 centimeters away. The background is not the best as it's a bit of printer paper but, I used the camera's inboard flas (too lazy to put my better flash on) & I had a lamp directed onto the fly as well. The PSD version looks much crisper than this low quality JPEG version.
[attachment deleted by admin]
-
Flash, tripod, macro lens......I think you have all the necessary equipment. What you need to do now is plenty of experimentation in all sorts of environments.....the more you shoot, the more you will learn from it...... ;D
This one is taken from about 18 inches......iSO 200.....1/125....colour set to "vivid"....flash about 2 feet to the left of my camera.
(http://www.boomspeed.com/mugarinya1/soldier_ant.jpg)
-
Brilliant Coins. Do you remember the F setting?
-
I took a few photos of bee/flies. It was a bit breezy & bright but I used a ballhead tripod & a remote (plugged in) shutter button.
They don't seem to look as good in JPEG.
My printer is printing darker than what appeares on screen so I uped the brightness on the printer a bit. The green is not quiet right so i'll have to adjust it. The attached photo is lighter than the printed copy. The printed copy (A4 size) looks OK.
[attachment deleted by admin]
-
That's the way, Ubb.
Try all sorts of subjects, find challenges, overcome problems ... there's no easy way to get 'the vibe, your honour'. We here can help you with comments and advice, but we aren't at your shoot and you may be after a different shot than we might think of going for. Photographic objectives are very personal and experience is the way to hone your skills and find out what you don't like, what you do like and how to achieve it.
One lesson is: JPEG's aren't the greatest for high quality, but there is a 'quality' setting you can adjust when saving them. The trade-off is that higher quality settings mean larger file size.
-
Yep Brum6y. I photograph in RAW & save as a PSD file. I have to change the photos to JPEG to email or post here.
I found a grasshopper this afternoon but it was windy so I plucked the flower he was on & moved into a sheltered area where I held the flower (with grasshopper still on board) in front of the camera & tphotographed with my remotre, a bit fiddly but I'll work it out. I'm still working with F stops 2.8 looks much the same as 22 when I'm up close to the critters.
Heres the grasshopper, unfortunatley the background is the wall of the house & not natural vegetation.
[attachment deleted by admin]
-
Birdie , whatever you do , dont eat glasshopper he full of riboflavins and green
-
Smee. No way would I even contemplate eating a grasshopper, they are green!
-
Hi Birdie........was thinking about Winston the other day and wondering if he is still in the land of too much food or if he had lost wait.
My three cats are skinnnnnny, never have had skinny cats but Miller Man just doesn't put on weight (now 10 months) and the other two are still youngin's March /April born.
SORRY off topic, good to see Winston...he's beautiful.
Westie
-
G'day Westie. Winston's not quiet as large as he used to be. The Commander In Chief has another cat, a female, called Mitzie, she's the cat from hell & hates Winston.
Whenever she spots Winston she trots over & gives him hell. Winston puts up with it & bolts of. I don't know why as he is twice the size .
Winston must have lost weight stressing out, also, as he refuses to use the kitty litter (too lazy) I chuck him out at night & he gets most disturbed & stresses out even more.
-
Fellas. Check out this macro flash. What do you think? I'm looking for a macro flash & this one comes with a 72mm adaptor ring which is the thread size of my Sigma 150 macro lense.
Ebay number 280555903996
-
Here is more detail on unit. read reviews
http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.35846 (http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.35846)
lights like this are good for focus and set up however very restricted range over 100mm from lens they become useless very quickly. Alos very bulky. Where as flashes can be usable up to 42 meters.
Flash like this with $10 diffusser is more expensive however with over 100 foot range and usable with all lens. and on of off camera means off axis lighting
http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.37534 (http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.37534)
-
Thanks for the advise Shyer. I have a flash like the second one & I have the diffuser I got from you a while back.
What do you know about Macro rails? I have discovered that focus is a sensitive issue when using macro lenses up close. I prefer to set focus to manual & move the camera in & out so, I thought a 4 way Macro rail would do the job.
-
I have used rails but never bought any, valuable in close work a centimeter or so from lens.. I find them only usable in static studio situations. No wind nothing moving. Ether is a good sleep agent for most insects.
I instead use a focusing tele convertor and / or macro bellows for the same close adjustments but now subject 10 cm from lens or more. By using a bright flash it allows F22 or so which helps increasing depth of field and flash freezes everything thus wind , hand shake or subject movement not an issue.
In regards to your cat I have had a few burmese and they are like dogs more than cats. They stress and wish to be near their PACK. While most cats prefer to be loners. Your attack cat is only getting away with the fact most males even desexed will not fight a female desexed or not.
You need to assert you are the pack leader and cats can not attack at will . Try this attack cat will soon learn to give the burmese space and normal behaviour will resume. Just start on lowest setting then work up to buzz that causes attack cat to stop unwarranted attacks. Close feeding with luzuries a good place to reinforce lesson.
http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.25876 (http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.25876)
-
G'day everyone. I got the ring light in the mail today. It is very good. Rather than being a flash it is a permanent light and can be a full ring, bright side, left side top or bottom. It is designed for macro photography.
[attachment deleted by admin]
-
I also got a 4-Way Macro Focusing Slide Rail it is very good. Very precise adjustments when in manual focus rather than move the camera lense focus (manual) just wind the rail in or out or left or right for perfect focus.
[attachment deleted by admin]
-
Hi Ubbie, now that you have the equipment, post a few shots here for our C & C.
Cheers
-
Will do Coins. I've been very busy with Archery & fishing & haven't had a chance to do any photography for a while.
There are some little flowers out at the moment & I'll try & photograph some of them.
I'm also looking for caterpillers but haven't found any yet.
-
I won;t post here and take up room on the servers - but check out
The last photo here http://itaintalwaysmylife.blogspot.com/2010/10/my-favourite-photos-of-week.html
http://itaintalwaysmylife.blogspot.com/2010/08/my-favourite-photos-of-week-bees-in.html
and all of the above
Thought you might enjoy them - note the comments on the first link ;)
-
Nice Photos Wokky. I especially love the bee macro shots. I'm finding bees hard to photograph, they don't stay still for long.
-
(http://www.boomspeed.com/mugarinya1/Bees_1.jpg)
Cheers
-
Excellent photo Coins. I'll have to keep trying with the bees.
What f. setting do you generally use?
-
Excellent photo Coins. I'll have to keep trying with the bees.
What f. setting do you generally use?
Not sure if you are talking to me or not Ubbie
For my bees shots (on the blog) the 'F' Setting was 5.6, exposure 1/1250s, ISO 200, Focal Length 300mm does that help?
I had the settings all auto except for the flash
-
Thanks Wokky. The bees were excellent. I have a new Macro lense am still working out the best combinations of F settings, shutter speeds ISO etc. It's good to know what setting you, Coins and others use to get such good shots, I learn from such information.
-
Thanks Wokky. The bees were excellent. I have a new Macro lense am still working out the best combinations of F settings, shutter speeds ISO etc. It's good to know what setting you, Coins and others use to get such good shots, I learn from such information.
By NO means am I any sort of expert - I use the analogy - give a monkey a camera and eventually he'll get something worth printing <-- that's me!
Those bee shots that you see http://itaintalwaysmylife.blogspot.com/2010/08/my-favourite-photos-of-week-bees-in.html involved a total of 1200 shots over a 2 hour period
so moneky - camera - good shot equals me!
-
Excellent photo Coins. I'll have to keep trying with the bees.
What f. setting do you generally use?
Taken more than a year ago. From memory:
ISO: 200
Exposue: 1/125
Distance: Approximately 2 feet
Colour temp: Set to "vivid"
CHeers
-
Hi Ubbie.....check this one out. Taken recent trip to Perth.
Very willing subject, did not move at all. It is a whopper, will measure at least 12 inches from wing tip to wing tip.
http://www.boomspeed.com/mugarinya1/Giant_Moth_2.jpg (http://www.boomspeed.com/mugarinya1/Giant_Moth_2.jpg)
Cheers
-
its from moths that size that they get moth balls
-
Just found this set this bloke also has some great tutorials.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/lordv/4284416840/in/photostream/ (http://www.flickr.com/photos/lordv/4284416840/in/photostream/)
Home page to get more info
http://abduzeedo.com/beautiful-macro-photography-brian-valentine (http://abduzeedo.com/beautiful-macro-photography-brian-valentine)
-
Thanks shyer....... ;D
-
Good stuff Shyer. He certainly takes great macro photos.
I think I've worked out how to replace boring skies with good skies in Photoshop Elements. I have to test it out & practice.
-
I'm so excited!
I finally worked out how to replace a boring sky in Photoshop Elemnts. I spent ages following the instructions in the Photoshop Elements 8 book by Scott Kelby but couldn't get it done.
I then tried something else & found that his instructions used an incorrect command. So I used the correct command & here ya go. not the best picture but godd for learning on.
[attachment deleted by admin]
-
The sky, above, is not the original. I photgraphed this sky at another time.
The rocks etc look blury but I'm experimenting with other bits & pieces of Elements. The RAW version has much mor clarity.
-
I've been busy macroing, I'm still learning but getting a bit better.
[attachment deleted by admin]
-
Here's a little spider. He is about a half an inch in size.
What about the fly above, he's blowing bubbles!
[attachment deleted by admin]
-
now try feeding the fly to the spider and post macro shots of the devouring process please
-
Good idea, now why didn't I think of that.
-
Good idea, now why didn't I think of that.
Well, you can't be expected to know everything straight away - it's just part of the learning process.
Hang around Smee and he'll learn ya lots!
-
Remember I'm the camera carrying monkey ;)
But what do you think?
http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_EfPNXWyQqR4/TNqBINdz0wI/AAAAAAAABao/xX7csk2vfRM/s1600/Bees%252C%2BEden%2BPark%2B20101102%2B%252836%2529.jpg (zoom in and check out the bees face!)
http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_EfPNXWyQqR4/TIo-fc-fX5I/AAAAAAAABPc/A_b5U9LKahU/s1600/Eden+Park+-+Kangaroo+in+Silhoette+20100910.JPG
Remember the monkey/camera bit
-
Great shot of the bee Wokky. I find it very difficult to photograph bees as they never stay still long enough.
I like the kangaroos silhouetted against the skyline, great shot.
-
Another photo http://twitpic.com/39g0x1
Of the 150 shots I took - only 7 were worth saving - this is one of the lesser ones - I'm being Very protective and saving the best for my blog :(
Sad but true
-
Good shot Wokky. I like the silhouette style photos.
-
I've been waiting weeks to get that shot - it's only 200m down the road, but between the weather, my leg and social commitments, it just doesn;t work.
I really wanted the sky a different colour (10-15minutes early) but hopefully other opportunites will arise
Fingers crossed
Thanks Ubbie for the comments!
PS - Poddy - I will catch up with you - I have the package - just not at home for the next week - well home but not in thinking mode :(
-
Check this out. look carefully into the eye in the picture, what do you see, do you recognise it?
[attachment deleted by admin]
-
How about this one, what a ripper.
[attachment deleted by admin]
-
One more, a humorous one.
[attachment deleted by admin]
-
Wokky, re Reply #500.
With regard to sky's, do you use any sort of photograph enhancement program?
I use Adobe Photoshop Elements 8 & I can now replace skies. I have photographed a few nice skies & saved them for the time I'll want to replace a boring sky.
-
Ubbie - no I haven;t thought about using software to adjust my photos
Call me lazy - call me an originalist - but I like my photos 'original' that includes the sky :(
I will take out small blemishes - like moths that I took out of a silhouetted roo photo, but beyond that 'minor' adjustment - I wouldn't dream of changing anything.
Crazy maybe - but me
-
Wokkie - it's not crazy at all.
Photography is an artistic pursuit - and there are a great many varieties of how the artistic objectives are achieved.
It's called style.
Rembrandt, Monet, Picasso and Dali all have a rather different style of painting - yet they are all renowned for their works.
Not crazy at all ... it is a part of what you seek!
-
I understand what you are saying Wokky & Brum6y.
The main things I use Photoshop for is adjusting white balance. DSLR's will not automatically adjust white balance when shooting photos in the RAW format. I shoot all my photos in RAW.
It is good for sky replacement and adjusting colour etc. but to do it properly layers should be used. I do not do a lot of sharpening or noise removal as I reckon they counter each other adversely.
Many of the world's great photographers use Photoshop or a similar program. I saw the photo that won the world wildlife championship a while back. It was taken by an Australian photographer. I got talking to him & he explained that the photo (a bird) was taken in an aviary with a electronic (or something) beam that, whenever the bird broke the beam the camera would go off. He then picked the best shot & photoshoped it into another photo he had taken in the wild. I wondered about the skill involved as the photo was photoshoped to a great extent. I saw his other photos though & they are spectacular . I wish I had his skill
-
I look at photos and often wonder how they've been 'tweaked' and has the tweaking changed the true character of the photo. I don't want to have to wonder that about my photos - so prefer the a la naturale look for me
it may not be perfect all the time - but it makes me happy
I saw some WONDERFUL photos today - but I can't locate them now :( - was on the work computer, or I would have found in my history :(
BRILLIANT silouette photos they were too :(
But how many of them had been touched up? - We'll never know and that ruins their beauty for me
-
I know what you mean Wokky. Some of the Adobe Photoshoppers are so good most people can't pick that they have been doctored.
-
NEW FREE...
Did I mention NEW and FREE australia camera listing site.
I will be keeping my eye on it
http://www.cameramarket.com.au/ (http://www.cameramarket.com.au/)
-
Interesting site Shyer. I'll keep my eye on it.
Some of the prices are like new but then again other prices are very reasonable.
I'm looking for a 10-20 wide angle lense for my Canon.
-
nIce picnic lunch Mavis
Er
Did you bring the umbrella
(http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y273/4wombat/storm_07_16gifqf-16gifrf.jpg)
No
Ok first one back to the car has a chance of living
(http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y273/4wombat/storm_05_16gifqu-16gifrg.jpg)
i made it to the car and camera
-
Here's a question..
Any idea what is causing this reddish tinge in my Canon Powershot G5? Problem is essentially the same at varying optical zoom levels.
(Photos of a piece of white paper, with Custom white balance set.)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v702/brumbymg/Hardware/G5_MaxZoom_0.jpg)
It's not the lighting, because this next shot was taken with the camera rotated 180 degrees.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v702/brumbymg/Hardware/G5_MaxZoom_180.jpg)
To make it easier to see what I'm talking about, I have exaggerated the effect in these versions of the images
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v702/brumbymg/Hardware/G5_MaxZoom_0sat3.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v702/brumbymg/Hardware/G5_MaxZoom_180sat3.jpg)
-
Hi B,
Actually it is the lighting that the camera is "misinterpreting"
Read here about purple fringing problems this camera has.
http://webcache.googleusercontent.com/search?q=cache:IDS9Qr0GLSEJ:www.panohelp.com/canong5.html+canon+powershot+g5+white+balance&cd=10&hl=en&ct=clnk&gl=au&source=www.google.com.au (http://webcache.googleusercontent.com/search?q=cache:IDS9Qr0GLSEJ:www.panohelp.com/canong5.html+canon+powershot+g5+white+balance&cd=10&hl=en&ct=clnk&gl=au&source=www.google.com.au)
When you rotate camera the problem is at the same points this means it is not the sensor or lens but the software. Is there updated firmware for your camera or what other white balance options do you have? Does using the camera's or off camera flash cure the problem?
-
The purple fringing, or similar problems, are common to a great many digital cameras to various degrees. However, in all the examples which I have encountered, that particular phenomenon is always associated with areas of high contrast - particularly with the transition between dark regions and brightly lit areas at sharp edge and especially with high intensity bright spots. There are no edges in these shots at all, so I do not think that particular problem has anything to do with it.
Your comment about software is an interesting one. Certainly my problem does follow the camera, not the scene, so lens and sensor are candidates - but you are right in that the software does process the image data the same way, no matter which way the camera is oriented. I would expect software, though, to have a consistent effect across the image - or at least one with some (hopefully observable) pattern.
Still, some tests were in order.
Parameters which I varied:
- Image size
- Image quality
- Zoom level
- Flash on/off
- White balance
and I also took a shot in RAW format.
To summarise, ALL images showed the same basic reddish discolouration in the left and lower left, and on the right to a lesser degree. This includes the RAW image.
Varying the image size and quality did show something interesting ... there were some combinations which made the problem less noticeable than others, but it was always there. This would indicate the software is not being consistent in its processing.
Another observation is that on all images under extreme saturation, there was a quite obvious pair of 'train tracks' running up alongside the right edge. These look to me like the sort of 'edge' irregularities you might get in chip manufacture. The same thought crossed my mind about the circular shape of my main problem - reminiscent of the shallow puddle that forms in the gentle dip of a 'flat' piece of concrete.
Will try some more tests .. and then look at the firmware update, followed by some more testing.
-
hI B,
While most of my repair experience has been with film cameras the same principlies still apply . If I have a problem with the lens or film position. If I turn the camera upside down in our case the problem will move to the top of frame not stay at bottom. If the problem stays at bottom it is then a developing or enlarger fault.
The camera software now is doing that job. The purple fringing is a common problem that the linked article has a diagram showing a lens / sensor problem with registration of the blue and red spectrums causing the purple fringe.
IF the problem is less in RAW the software is increasing the fault. If usable in RAW use other programs to process photos, will also speed up photo to photo speed.
Ultimately though I find problems get worse rather than better. The G5 was released in 03 and sells on ebay at about $100/150 . In 08 nikion released the coolpix 8800 it now sells on ebay USA for $150/200 . It has a much better lens , and vibration resist. Best of all has a reputation for a long life and robustness.
-
Still to do the other tests I have planned, but the potential for further degradation has me beginning to ask questions about a replacement.
On that subject, I will return to the topic title - and ask for anyone's opinions on a candidate for replacement.
Requirements:-
* Manual White Balance setting
* Accurate colour reproduction (my G5 is barely adequate)
* Autofocus with manual override
* Manual exposure setting capability
* Minimum optical zoom of 3x
* 240v power option (for loooong shooting sessions)
* Computer based operation mode - such as Canon's Remote Capture (currently being used) - specifically having the following features:
- Viewfinder
- White balance selection
- Zoom level
- Auto/manual focus selection
- Auto focus lock (preferred) or manual focus set
- Shutter release
- Image size/quality selection
- Manual aperture and shutter speed setting
- Immediate image transfer directly to computer
- Histogram display
- Viewable session thumbnails - preferably with full size viewing option
- Input to EXIF data 'comments' area (I insert the product barcode on every image. Extracting the EXIF data gives me an image/product cross reference.)
Many of these requirements are essential for an efficient workflow.
I know I have not specified how many megapixels - but that is not particularly important since these images are destined for internet usage and will reduce to much smaller levels of detail.
If anyone might question the need for 'colour accuracy' because of the wide variety of monitors and settings, I will say that I have found the more accurate the colour of the image, the better it is rendered across a wide variety of those monitors and settings.
Any suggestions?
-
Budget?
DSLR an option?
Size?
Subjets?
Dusty or humid enviroments?
I would recomend camera search first, software to process second.
-
Budget?
Limited. $500 - $1,000
DSLR an option?
Not excluded - but does not offer any benefits
Size?
Physical size not important. Camera will spend most of its life on a fixed mount, pointing down.
Megapixels? Not very demanding at all - 3 megapixel would do, but more is always welcome.
Subjets?
Booklets and objects - 99% pf which are smaller than a bread box.
Dusty or humid enviroments?
No. Office/studio environment
I would recomend camera search first, software to process second.
Post production software is not being considered here - but image capture software IS. To be efficient in the workflow, any camera selected must be able to be driven from the computer as detailed. Any camera which utilises software that is missing one or two of the above criteria is not going to make the short list.
-
Have done some more testing with various parameter changes - and I think I have an explanation as to what is going on.
I must thank Shyer for a valuable clue.
If the further tests support the theory, I will let you know...
-
Yahoo. I won a photograph competition tonight.
I won with a Macro photo of a mean & evil spider, a head shot. He didn't like me & I was a bit concerned that he would jump on my head as I took the photo from below him looking up.
If Magoo can remind me what the program is he suggested to me a while back I'll post the photo here.
-
I think its called tinypics ... Birdie might be .com ?
-
(http://i48.tinypic.com/35ce8wm.jpg)
-
That's him, I think. I took a number of photos & the photo that I entered is on display so I don't have it to compare.
-
ha ! four eyes ! lol
-
I have got an even better more close up shot of the spider but it has some cobweb running across the spider & I didn't have the time to Photoshop the strand of web out.
When I do I'll whack a JPEG copy on here.
-
Anyone who gets that close to a spder willingly
Needs to be PFASUTA ....
-
I tend to agree Smee. The spider was above me & wasn't very happy. I was careful in case he jumped on my head.
-
Fantastic picture Ubby. You have a bit of a gift.
-
Thanks Fluffy. I have an even closer one of the spider but I haven't photoshoped a cobweb out of the photo yet.
-
Get the felafel out of here ..... Any closer and its on your head ...no more spiters please
-
I'll get rid of the cob web & whack him here.
-
great photo ubbie, that website was/is www.tinypic.com but i think u already found it and posted it
what type of spider is that one? is it venomous?
we just had a big fuji and city of sydney photo cmp down here of the area, for some they provided this nice fujifilm digital camera model 550 for people to loan for a few weeks and enter then at the end the gallery down on the water had an exhibition
well done on winning your macro comp ubbie, excellent work m8
-
Looks like a Huntsman to me - and I don't think they are a problem for people.
Personally, I like them around because they like eating pests - but not inside the house. If I find one inside, they will be carefully removed and given lodgings outside.
-
Yep. I think that is what it is/was. I don't like them but he/she wasn't bothering anyone. They will bite but it's not deadly just painful, so I'm told.
I'm hunting Red Backs & White Tails for photos at the moment.
Could have got a ripper of 2 Red Belly Black snakes mating some time ago but didn't have my camera with me, typical.
-
Pervert
-
Lol. :rofl:
-
I had a close encounter with a black snake up in Dharag National Park many years ago.
When I got back to the car park, I mentioned it to another guy who asked if it was a red-bellied black.
I simply told him I didn't pick it up to have a look.